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Oh, I should have used more words. He is a great guy, he stepped up to rescue the group buy. He has saved many people a lot of money by taking it on.
Good greif Raj,You're humiliating those capacitors. For that level of audiphiliac obscession, I'd expect the dc filter to cook breakfast, complete with cappucino.Forget the DC filter's front end caps (at this point in the power supply chain you're not concerned with noise coming out towards the ac line) and use something like 2 or 3 paralleled 10uf Vishay MKT1822 or Rifa MMT 50volt caps, or if you must be all audiophile, an appropriate voltage < 50uf Blackgate electrolytic. I simply use a 33uf 35v Panasonic FM electrolytic. Using large caps with long wire leads compromises much of their intrisic qualities for this use because of the necessary long leads with their comparitive high inductance.
Thanks for the replies, I wondered if something like explanation #2 was occurring. My amp is a Marantz SR4600 specs say 314W on 120V, which puts it in at 2.62A; Still below the 3A rms, but close. I will be building a tube buffed gainclone this fall, which should draw less than the MarantzWhen I'm done my vacation I will take it to work and put the scope on it to see if there is any DC. I would like to build the DC blocker anyways any cap values for the blocker?
HiI hope someone can answer my questions.Is there any reason I cannot try higher value caps such as 10 to 100 uF X2 caps ?Thankskp93300
A thread from the graveyard - Thanks to the nice photos and groovy schematic
By the way, you don't really need the PC boards from the group buy. It's almost easier hard wiring them to the back of the outlets. A few guys did that somewhere in this thread and it worked out great.
I was speaking with someone about this last night. Can you post the post #'s for the photos and schematic?