[rhing]

Where do you get that Teflon tubing?  Basic google searching has only resulted in bulk quantities that are quite expensive.

As an alternative: how about coating the soldered pot leads with a big glob of hot glue?  Definitely cheap and easy, but is there any downside?

I usually pick up PTFE (Teflon) thin wall tubing at Fry's Electronics, which is a large chain electronics retailer in the Western states. If you don't have anything local, you can buy online:

http://www.frys.com/product/74209?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG

[Poultrygeist]

This is how she looks topless.

[Wind Chaser]

That's a big box for a small amp. What's all going on in there? And what are you using for a power supply?

[mboxler]

That's a big box for a small amp. What's all going on in there? And what are you using for a power supply?

Looks like the two silver "bricks" are 12 volt power supplies wires in series to get 24 volts.

Wind Chaser, if this stuff is new to you, then you are in for a treat!  If not...sorry for the newbie advice.

I'd get some standoffs, if you don't already have some.  I like the aluminum 4-40 one's on ebay.  You'll need some 4-40 screws as well.  These amps are VERY light, and if you secure them on a small piece of plywood or the like, then the cables won't drag it all over the place.

Then you can connect the power supply, speaker wires, etc. to the amp, plug in the PS, and enjoy.  From there, you can go to the next step...a real enclosure.  You can reuse the standoffs to mount in the case.

Again, sorry if this doesn't help.  The neat thing about these amps is learning all the other stuff, like switches, jacks, binding posts, ...

Mike

[matt_garman]

How hard do you think it would be to convert that board to a single-channel 100 Watt version?  I believe this is called "parallel bridge tied load" or PBTL.

Seller "audiobah" on ebay has a "Amplifier board, TPA3116 Class D, 2x50W or 1x100W - Stereo or Full PBTL" (current link).  I.e. you can buy it pre-wired for mono.  But it costs more than the Yuan Jing, and the YJ just looks nicer to me.

I'd like to have the TPA31xx sound in a higher-power package (>100 watts at 4 ohms ideally).  Two of these in PBTL mode in the same chassis running off a single power supply would be nice I think.

To answer my own question, here's the info from DIY Audio, post #671 by Virpz describes how to convert the red PCB board to PBTL.  Could probably be used as a basis for doing the same on the YJ blue boards, but it's a little above my skill/comfort level.

I emailed YJ to see if they'd do the PBTL conversion for me, but no response. 

Does anyone have experience comparing these to the Class D Audio IRS2090-based amps?  I've got the SDS-470 that I'm super happy with... that's in theory good for 600 WPC (at 4 ohms).  I know my normal listening levels don't get anywhere near that, but the headroom is always nice.  I wonder if I dropped down the to 50 WPC of the TPA3116 if it would be a downgrade.  If I could at least maintain the same performance, I could get away with a lot smaller box, presumably cooler-running and using less power... tempting!

[Wind Chaser]

Looks like the two silver "bricks" are 12 volt power supplies wires in series to get 24 volts.

Wind Chaser, if this stuff is new to you, then you are in for a treat!  If not...sorry for the newbie advice.

I'd get some standoffs, if you don't already have some.  I like the aluminum 4-40 one's on ebay.  You'll need some 4-40 screws as well.  These amps are VERY light, and if you secure them on a small piece of plywood or the like, then the cables won't drag it all over the place.

Then you can connect the power supply, speaker wires, etc. to the amp, plug in the PS, and enjoy.  From there, you can go to the next step...a real enclosure.  You can reuse the standoffs to mount in the case.

Again, sorry if this doesn't help.  The neat thing about these amps is learning all the other stuff, like switches, jacks, binding posts, ...

Hi Mike,

I had played around with the DIY Paradise Charlize about 7 or 8 years ago. Don't recall exactly how (or if) I mounted them. I had two and the plan was to mount one amp on each baffle with 2 Visaton B200's. The Charlize was a very nice amp, and it was quite a bit more costly than the TPA 3116.

Thanks for the tip on the standoffs, but I'm hoping to get them locally.

[lacro]

I am using my trusty modified Power One SMPS set at a 12.5V DC / 6A output. I don't think I'll need more power than this for my 98dB Klipsch Forte IIs unless someone really convinces me that I need to upgrade to more power.

Rhing...
 I am confused. Doesn't this board require 24V DC?

Yaun Jing site specs:
Voltage Range: DC 18V ~ 26V
Recommended Voltage: DC 24V / 2 ~ 6A

[rhing]

Rhing...
 I am confused. Doesn't this board require 24V DC?

Yaun Jing site specs:
Voltage Range: DC 18V ~ 26V
Recommended Voltage: DC 24V / 2 ~ 6A

If you review the Texas Instruments TPA3116D2 datasheet, the voltage range for operation is 4.5 V – 26 V, so a 12V power supply with 3A or higher output will power the amp fine, especially with more efficient speakers.

Some people use less efficient speakers that require more power, so a higher wattage power supply like a Mean Well RS-150-15 or RS-150-24 SMPS might be better. However, some on the diyAudio.com forum thread on these amps have claimed that using anything higher that 21V results is degraded sound quality.

[lacro]

If you review the Texas Instruments TPA3116D2 datasheet, the voltage range for operation is 4.5 V – 26 V, so a 12V power supply with 3A or higher output will power the amp fine, especially with more efficient speakers.

Some people use less efficient speakers that require more power, so a higher wattage power supply like a Mean Well RS-150-15 or RS-150-24 SMPS might be better. However, some on the diyAudio.com forum thread on these amps have claimed that using anything higher that 21V results is degraded sound quality.

Thanks!

[thaddeussmith]

Turns out this $49 Chinese 6N3 tube preamp from ebay is absolutely stunning with the 3116.

I thought I liked the 3116 just as an integrated amp but there's no comparison to the sound with this tube preamp. I tried the 3116 with a Bottlehead Foreplay III expecting even more but the magic wasn't there.

If I hadn't already built them as separates I'd put both in the same case.

any thoughts on the BH Quickie 1.1 with its 3s4 tubes?

[gychang]

I got one in the mail. We'll see how it does... The TDA7297 is still one of the most transparent things I've heard.

I played around with t-amps for few years as a hobby, just got my first chip amp TDA7297, hooked it up to small desktop speakers.  To my ears it sounds surprisingly good.  I am excited to connect to my main full-range and see.  I agree it is excellent and cost me $7.

[rhing]

I played around with t-amps for few years as a hobby, just got my first chip amp TDA7297, hooked it up to small desktop speakers.  To my ears it sounds surprisingly good.  I am excited to connect to my main full-range and see.  I agree it is excellent and cost me $7.

I also have a TDA7297 Class A/B chip amp that I had assembled into an enclosure and upgraded with an Alps volume pot, some Mundorf Supreme film caps, Mundorf Silver-Gold hookup wire and a Panasonic 2,200 uF / 25V power supply cap.





This is a very fine sounding amp--much better than the Tripath amps I've owned. However, the bass on the chip amp itself (not on my own personal implementation) is reported on the ST Micro datasheet to begin rolling off at 40Hz. If you have speakers that go down to 31-35Hz, you will not hear really low notes. My modest-powered Sure Electronics TPA3110D2 goes deeper than the TDA7297. To my ears, the mids and highs are clearer sounding with the Texas Instruments Class D amps with greater detail in terms of attack and decay. I followed Salis Audio's advise and removed the polarity protection diode, and that improved the sound quite a bit, but the Class D amps are better.

The Texas Instruments amps cost more, but provide greater performance for the extra expense. I liken the TPA3110/TPA3116 amps to be like refined, next generation T-amps. Any shortcomings with Tripath amps were either reduced or eliminated, and the bandwidth and tonality were improved.

[lacro]

Rhing...
 Will your new TPA3116D2 board fit in the same size box you have used for your other small amp builds? BTW/ what are the dimensions of the new stock board? Also, any more listening impressions?

Thanks,
Lacro

[rhing]

Rhing...
 Will your new TPA3116D2 board fit in the same size box you have used for your other small amp builds? BTW/ what are the dimensions of the new stock board? Also, any more listening impressions?

Thanks,
Lacro

The Yuan Jing 2.0 TPA3116D2 "blue" amp measures about 4" L  x 2.25" W x 1.2" H, so it would be a tight fit into the Context Engineering 4006H case I used with the Sure Electronics TPA-3110D2 amp. I want to add a volume pot and possibly a Panasonic 2,200uF / 25V at the power supply connection. I'm thinking of using a Context Engineering 4012H case for this amp, the same case I used for my TDA7297 amp build. Even though it's not much bigger than the smaller Context Engineering case, it's longer, taller and wider to accommodate taller capacitors like Elna Silmic II electrolytic caps as power supply caps.

I might also incorporate input transformers like Jensen JT-11P-1 or Lundahl LL1690 line level input balancing transformers to take advantage of the differential inputs (LINP and LINN, and RINP and RINN), so an even larger enclosure would be required.

I've got more time on the Yuan Jing "blue" amp, and I really like this amp a lot. I've also got more time with my modified Sure Electronics TPA3110D2 amp. These amps sound really similar, almost identical, but the Yuan Jing "blue" seems to be able to project a larger soundstage with slightly better separation between performers. That said, the modified Sure TPA3110D2 sounds cleaner, especially on complex passages with some music. My guess is that the Yuan Jing can be improved in this area with some mods like:

• Better input caps such as Wima MKP10 metallized Polypropylene caps with 22.5mm lead spacing (same as stock Epcos B32923 X2-type metallized Polypropylene caps).
• Better power supply caps like Elna Silmic II 1,000uF / 25V electrolytic caps, or whatever you like for electrolytics.
• Better inductors like the Bourns 10uH toroid inductors.
• Better wiring than the stock cable with the 3-pin connector.

With some minor improvements, I really think this amp can be made into a true giant-killer that would rival some really nice and expensive Class A and Class A/B amps. The addition of a tube preamp in front of these Class D amps really brings the best out of them.

[thaddeussmith]

Can you provide specific links for the input caps and inductors? I'm getting to the point where I can neatly replace some stock parts, but have no confidence in my ability to pick technically appropriate replacements. I do have some Panasonic FC 1800uf/25v caps that I planned to put into place for the power caps and power supply terminals.

[Folsom]

Best WIMA's to get.

That is if he'll make 1uf ones. Adding 3 of them together doesn't work for input capacitors. The corner frequency goes up when you do that.

[rhing]

Can you provide specific links for the input caps and inductors? I'm getting to the point where I can neatly replace some stock parts, but have no confidence in my ability to pick technically appropriate replacements. I do have some Panasonic FC 1800uf/25v caps that I planned to put into place for the power caps and power supply terminals.

I'm assuming that you're referring to the Yuan Jing 2.0 TPA3116D2 "blue" amp. If that's the amp, then you can purchase these parts from Mouser.com. Sorry, but links die as Webmasters keep shuffling things around on Websites.

Wima MKP10 Film Capacitors 250V 1uF 5% PCM 22.5 11X21X26.5.............PN 505-M101.0/250/5.........
2 pcs..............$2.76/pc
Bourns Fixed Inductors TOROID INDUCTOR 10uH HI TEMP VERTCL MT........PN 652-2100HT-100-V-RC...
4 pcs..............$2.19/pc

Here's JonL's assessment of the Wima MKP10 caps:

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=54218.msg524814#msg524814

Note that the end with the outer foil is marked with the vertical black line on the face of the cap. Typically, the outer foil end should be oriented to be closest to ground, output or lower voltage to serve as a quasi-shield for lower noise and better sound quality. I would think this would be the input thru-hole for each cap, but I invite others to correct me if I'm wrong.

It would be nice if tweakaudio.com offered the modified Wima caps in 1uF values with 22.5mm lead spacing, but I have a feeling the cost would be substantially more than $10 or $11 if they did. I would consider the "original" Wima MKP10 caps with the Copper leads, but the only sellers that carry them on eBay are in China, and I am not sure how authentic those caps are.

The Bourns inductors are the ones that Wushuliu prefers. Hope he's right.
 

[thaddeussmith]

you are correct, the blue board, sorry for not clarifying. my board landed in california today, so it should be here in TX some time next week. thanks for the part numbers, i think I'll go ahead and just do these upgrades and enjoy the results.

[rhing]

I can vouch for the performance of the Wima MKP10 caps and Belden 8864 shielded hookup wire. I restored a Dynaco SCA-35 6BQ5/EL84 integrated amp using Wima MKP10 caps as coupling caps in the phono stage and in the driver stage. The output coupling caps (tubular white caps next to 6BQ5/EL84 tubes) are Sonicap Gen 2 metallized Polypropylene film caps. The new replacement PCBs including the power supply cap and Enhanced Fixed Bias (EFB) board were from Audio Regenesis.

Here are the before and after shots:





For the money, the Wima's sound very good, but they do need some time to burn in and really sing. The Belden shielded hookup cables are great for maintaining a low noise floor.

[thaddeussmith]

great stuff, thanks. and I just noticed mouser is just a couple of cities over from me. even better!