[shadowlight]

Need some help in hooking up the volume pot to Sure and 7297 board.  I purchased


http://www.ebay.com/itm/SMT-Resistor-Step-Attenuator-50K-Volume-Control-/220975033985?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3373236e81


but do not know how to hook it up .


Thx

[mboxler]

but do not know how to hook it up .

Hey...

Are you wanting to know how to solder to the pot (looks weird...holes to pins 1 and 3 seem to be filled with solder???), or how to wire from the RCA's to the pot to the board(s)?

Hate to bore you with too much detail 

Mike

[shadowlight]

Hey...

Are you wanting to know how to solder to the pot (looks weird...holes to pins 1 and 3 seem to be filled with solder???), or how to wire from the RCA's to the pot to the board(s)?

Hate to bore you with too much detail 

Mike

Mike,

RCA to pot to the board.  Here is how I think it needs to be hooked up please correct if I can going about it wrong.  The positive hole on the left channel needs to be connected to the left back hole on the pot, the ground to the hole on the front, similar thing with the right channel.  The center is what gets connected to the rca for signal.

[mboxler]

Mike,

RCA to pot to the board.  Here is how I think it needs to be hooked up please correct if I can going about it wrong.  The positive hole on the left channel needs to be connected to the left back hole on the pot, the ground to the hole on the front, similar thing with the right channel.  The center is what gets connected to the rca for signal.

Not sure if the helps, but...

http://sound.westhost.com/pots.htm

Think of your stereo pot as two of the mono pots in the article, one in front of the other.

With the shaft facing you, and the solder pins facing down, the pins would be numbered 1, 2,and 3.

The center pin of one of the RCA's would connect to pin 3 of the front row.  Wire pin 2 of the front row to the amplifier "+".  Wire pin 1 of the front row to the amplifier "-".

Wire the other RCA to the back row of pins the same way.  Just make sure that if you connect the Right RCA to pin 3 on the from row, then connect pins 1 and 2 of the front row to the right input on the amp.

This pin configuration is pretty normal.  To verify, turn the pot all the way up.  You should read 0 ohms between pins 3 and 2, and 50K ohms between pins 2 and 1.  Total signal from 3 to 2, full resistance to ground.

Hope that helps.

Mike

 

 

[rhing]

I'll add my two pennies here:

Refer to the diagram on this Web page:

http://www.partsconnexion.com/controls_pot_alps.html

Channel 1 is your left channel
Channel 2 is your right channel
In - these are connected to the signal of your RCA connectors (i.e., center posts)
Out - these are connected to the thru-hole inputs of your amplifier board for each channel (L & R)
Ground - these are connected to your ground lugs on each of your RCA connectors and to the signal ground thru-hole connections on your amp.

This is another diagram showing how a volume pot is connected to a Sonic Impact T-amp. The connections are similar to what you are trying achieve:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/68380-help-wiring-replacement-potentiometer-sonic-t.html#post773160

[Poultrygeist]

Here's my TPA3116 placed in a decor box from Tuesday Morning. The top is a piece of plexi glass cut at Lowe's and spray painted black. The knob is from Radio Shack. I hate power bricks hanging off the back of amps so I built this one inside. The PS One is a good companion to the TPA and this one is a highly modded 5501.

[Poultrygeist]

[Poultrygeist]

The TPA3116 pairs well with the $50 Chinese tube amp from ebay. I found the 3116 more powerful and resolving than the Sure TK2050/Meanwell. Also outperforms the Topping TP21 and Dayton DTA100.

[HaroldHill]

I just received my Sure TPA3110D2 board and am looking for advice on two points: adding an on/off switch and replacing the power-supply capacitors.

How (and where) do I wire up an on/off switch? Is a dual pole single throw the right kind of toggle I should be using?

Looking underneath the board, it looks like the power-supply capacitors are through-hole, but with a non-standard distance between the leads (about 3mm, by my ruler). Are people just bending the leads to fit the holes? (Seems obvious, but I figure I'll ask anyway.)

Any and all help appreciated!

[lloyd bruney]

 Hey, Poultry, cool build! Dig the steampunk look!  Would love to see the amp itself and maybe the seller's name. Thanks from a fellow Gamecock.

[Brad]

For the caps, the spacing is 3.5mm.  I just slightly bent the leads on 5mm caps to fit.

[mboxler]

How (and where) do I wire up an on/off switch? Is a dual pole single throw the right kind of toggle I should be using?

A regular toggle switch (SPST) will do.  It's easiest to run the DC power to J6 (VCC/GND).  Run one wire from the negative post of your DC jack to GND.  Run another wire from the positive post of your DC jack to one of the terminals of the SPST switch.  Run another from the other SPST terminal to VCC.  Just make sure not to get your wires crossed  .

Mike

[mboxler]

Some pictures...






DC power wires on the left side.

The black negative wire to the board (GND), the red positive wires to switch and then to board (VCC).

My wife made the table quilt thingy...

Mike

[HaroldHill]

Thanks, Brad. Thanks, mboxler. That's exactly what I needed to know.

[rhing]

Here's my TPA3116 placed in a decor box from Tuesday Morning. The top is a piece of plexi glass cut at Lowe's and spray painted black. The knob is from Radio Shack. I hate power bricks hanging off the back of amps so I built this one inside. The PS One is a good companion to the TPA and this one is a highly modded 5501.

Nice work Poultrygeist. I like the wood and Plexiglass finish. Thanks for sharing.

I agree that a modded Playstation makes for a great Red Book CD player.

[Poultrygeist]

Hey, Poultry, cool build! Dig the steampunk look!  Would love to see the amp itself and maybe the seller's name. Thanks from a fellow Gamecock.

Thanks Bud,

I got mine from "doublehorse8878" as well as the 35 cm cable with RCA jack. The cable plugs directly into the board so there's no soldering.

Since the power brick resides within the enclosure I tapped directly into it's power cord to install the fuse and a two pole on/off switch.

I used a 12V lap top power brick which gives as much or maybe more usable output than I get from the Dayton DTA100 with it's 24V PS.

Hi rhing, at $15 this is a no brainer purchase. Just the fun of figuring out the case and install was worth the price of admission. Almost forgot to mention how lovely it sounds with a C&C favorite - the Pioneer BS22.

We should all be thankful we live in the age of incredibly affordable high fidelity.

[rhing]

Some pictures...

DC power wires on the left side.

The black negative wire to the board (GND), the red positive wires to switch and then to board (VCC).

My wife made the table quilt thingy...

Mike

That's a really great implementation of one of those Radio Shack black ABS plastic project boxes. Very neat wiring job, which involves a bit more work than some people realize. This nice build definitely falls into line with the Cheap and Cheerful spirit.

Did you replace the two stock electrolytic caps on the TPA3110D2 board? If not, I would recommend the Elna Silmic II 1,000uF / 25V or Panasonic FM 1,500uF / 25 electrolytic caps. Alternatively, Wushuliu and Lacro have tried the Nichicon KZ Muse electrolytic caps with positive results.

Rich

[mboxler]

Thanks, Rich...

The box was VERY easy to work with.  1/4 " pilot holes everywhere, then a step bit get get each one just right.  I am going to replace the silver screws with black ones, so the cost could go up a few cents  .

I left the stock caps.  Sounded so good I didn't bother.  I just received two more boards.  I plan on building a chassis that will contain two Sure boards and some Marchand XM1's to Bi-amp my Klipshorns.  I'll upgrade those with better caps.

Mike

 

[rhing]

Thanks, Rich...

The box was VERY easy to work with.  1/4 " pilot holes everywhere, then a step bit get get each one just right.  I am going to replace the silver screws with black ones, so the cost could go up a few cents  .

I left the stock caps.  Sounded so good I didn't bother.  I just received two more boards.  I plan on building a chassis that will contain two Sure boards and some Marchand XM1's to Bi-amp my Klipshorns.  I'll upgrade those with better caps.

Mike

Sure TPA3110 amps + Klipsch Heritage Speakers = Heaven

I can vouch that the Sure TPA3110 amps and Klipsch Heritage speakers are a great combination. I'm thoroughly enjoying this amp with my Klipsch Forte II's.

[lacro]

The top is a piece of plexi glass cut at Lowe's and spray painted black.

Nice "cheap and cheerful" case. Painting the plexi is a good idea. I was looking for smoked plexi for mine, but couldn't find any locally.

 BTW/ here's a tip I developed for cutting plexiglass: score BOTH sides with a utility knife and a straightedge. If you have a table saw, place the fence near one end of the table. Put the sheet of plexi under the fence close to the score line. Lock the fence down. Just lift the free end of the sheet, and it will break exactly at the score line. You could do the same thing with a couple of boards and clamps, but the tablesaw fence method is really quick and easy.