bicycles

Folsom · « **Reply #260 on:** 30 Mar 2007, 08:43 am »

I actually do not care for Surly myself...

Although I will say that their hubs are their worst product that I know of, and by that I mean trash. The funny part is that they are made by formula who makes great hubs for IRO and sells their own as formula hubs.

beat · « **Reply #261 on:** 5 Apr 2007, 06:30 am »

Quote from: Destroyer of Smiles. on 30 Mar 2007, 08:43 am

I actually do not care for Surly myself...

Although I will say that their hubs are their worst product that I know of, and by that I mean trash. The funny part is that they are made by formula who makes great hubs for IRO and sells their own as formula hubs.

Yeah OK, I was speaking more about how surly is a company that makes nice steel frames with SS in mind for a decent price. I think their fit and geometry could be something that Max could appreciate which is why I pitched it as an idea and on that note if we are talking used he might as well consider Soma or Kelly frames built up however. I think hubs are an important thing to consider (and I am an avid Paul fan) but getting the bike to fit and ride well is more important in my book than having icy bearings for my rims.

Folsom · « **Reply #262 on:** 5 Apr 2007, 06:47 am »

How about loose bearings? That is the problem with the Surly hubs... They always have play, ALWAYS. If there was a way to get rid of it I guarantee I would of and every other professional bike mechanic, including the ones that own the hubs, would of done so.

I never hear horror stories about their frames, just that they are a bit heavy, spotty welding, so just a bit over priced is the only big deal. I just think in general there are better products for the money out there in all categories that Surly is in.

I have yet to use any Paul hubs... I imagine they are nice, but no Dura Ace (track anyhow)!

aerius · « **Reply #263 on:** 5 Apr 2007, 04:57 pm »

Some of you have been biking long enough to remember this.

Levi · « **Reply #264 on:** 5 Apr 2007, 08:54 pm »

I am not as old as you think but I can go back even before they invented that Roxshox.

ctviggen · « **Reply #265 on:** 5 Apr 2007, 09:06 pm »

My first mountain bike was a totally unsuspended rock hopper. Dang that thing hurt on some rocky trails in AZ!

aerius · « **Reply #266 on:** 5 Apr 2007, 09:19 pm »

Quote from: Levi on 5 Apr 2007, 08:54 pm

I am not as old as you think but I can go back even before they invented that Roxshox.

Heh, I started mountain biking around the time of the Mag 21 and Manitou 3, back in the days of the air/oil vs. elastomer wars. I used to drool over the Mag 21 SL-Ti.

mcgsxr · « **Reply #267 on:** 5 Apr 2007, 09:39 pm »

Wow, I had a Mani on my old Yeti back in the early 90's!

Rocket · « **Reply #268 on:** 6 Apr 2007, 01:31 am »

Hi Guys,

Previously in this thread i mentioned a cycling accident i had in May 2005 where i broke my clavicle (collarbone) in 9 places. I had a bone graft a couple of months later and after 9 months the damn thing had not healed and i still had a large break.

This week i went to see another orthopaedic surgeon to ascertain if anything could be done to repair it for me. I was sent off for xrays and anyway the surgeon informed me that after almost 2 years it is fully healed. I'm booked in for a procedure to remove the plate which i've been told is relatively minor.

Having a broken clavicle has been a real imposition for me as i have been unable to do much training (i've also been recuperating from major knee surgery).

Regards

Rod

beat · « **Reply #269 on:** 6 Apr 2007, 01:34 am »

Quote from: aerius on 5 Apr 2007, 04:57 pm

Some of you have been biking long enough to remember this.

AWESOME!!! I too fell in love with that bike way before suspension forks!

Quote from: Destroyer of Smiles. on 5 Apr 2007, 06:47 am

How about loose bearings? That is the problem with the Surly hubs... They always have play, ALWAYS. If there was a way to get rid of it I guarantee I would of and every other professional bike mechanic, including the ones that own the hubs, would of done so.

I never hear horror stories about their frames, just that they are a bit heavy, spotty welding, so just a bit over priced is the only big deal. I just think in general there are better products for the money out there in all categories that Surly is in.

I have yet to use any Paul hubs... I imagine they are nice, but no Dura Ace (track anyhow)!

Dang, crazy that the quality of the hubs is that shoddy. Thanks for the heads up. What other steel frames come to mind that he might find built up?

beat · « **Reply #270 on:** 6 Apr 2007, 01:39 am »

Quote from: Rocket on 6 Apr 2007, 01:31 am

This week i went to see another orthopaedic surgeon to ascertain if anything could be done to repair it for me. I was sent off for xrays and anyway the surgeon informed me that after almost 2 years it is fully healed. I'm booked in for a procedure to remove the plate which i've been told is relatively minor...

Regards

Rod

Awesome! Its a long time coming but glad to hear you are on your way out of this thing.

Take it easy,
Beat

Folsom · « **Reply #271 on:** 6 Apr 2007, 07:20 am »

Well you can just get one built up without the Surly hubs, just a Surly frame.

However you are still nuts to want a 29er on the street.

I would just look at touring bikes if you are interested in an up-rightish position, or if you want more aggressive cyclocross. The idea is that you can run up to 700x45 on the right bicycles, which is more than big enough, in fact it is ridiculous for anything but touring, but you will have less resistance than 700x55+ (29er) as well as better geometry.

beat · « **Reply #272 on:** 7 Apr 2007, 03:23 am »

Quote from: Destroyer of Smiles. on 6 Apr 2007, 07:20 am

Well you can just get one built up without the Surly hubs, just a Surly frame.

However you are still nuts to want a 29er on the street.

I would just look at touring bikes if you are interested in an up-rightish position, or if you want more aggressive cyclocross. The idea is that you can run up to 700x45 on the right bicycles, which is more than big enough, in fact it is ridiculous for anything but touring, but you will have less resistance than 700x55+ (29er) as well as better geometry.

Yeah, I was leaning toward the cyclocross thing which was why I mentioned kelly and the paul stuff and one could change bars and stem to suit their level of uprightness and sort of grow into the bike agressiveness-wise and have sufficient tire clearance to run something cushy tire-wise and fenders or not. To build on that, the idea of a good fit and agreeable geometry is why I brought up my kogswell converted track bike. I am a fan of butted steel and lugs. Though I am running a track frame I can clear a decent diameter knobby with high psi and I get the quick steering I like on the road yet am able to cut across the mesa or grasy field. For me it is very versatile and want to weld up a front rack in the flat bed style so I can attatch a milk crate to throw crap in or strap down a case of beer ya know? It is half fixie road and half 20er mountain. On that note, Peeps who are riding the kogswell porteur randoneur frames are sooooo allabout them. There is a yahoo group for kogswells and I'll tell you what, they are literally a quarter million times more active than my mercedes truck group! Ok, that is not here nor there but you get my point. People loves they kogswells.

ctviggen · « **Reply #273 on:** 8 Apr 2007, 12:02 pm »

I have to say that I'm sick of the cold. I was supposed to ride my bike this weekend, but they kept threatening snow yesterday, although it never snowed. I got up today to ride, but it's below freezing (27 right now), and the high is only expected to be 39. That means I'd be riding in temps below freezing the entire ride (probably 2 hours). That's just too darn cold. I have all the gear to ride in that temp and below, but I'm tired of riding like this. I want it to be 40 when I start and 50+ when I end! And yes, I'll have some cheese with my whine!

PhilNYC · « **Reply #274 on:** 8 Apr 2007, 01:35 pm »

Quick question for you long-time mountain bikers; My mountain bike has Shimano clipless pedals that I put on them back in 1994. I believe the model number was something like the 757, but I can't remember for sure...all I know is that they were the "top" Shimano pedal at the time.

I'm looking for some new mtn shoes, and I'm wondering if the latest Shimano clipless pedal system is compatible with the old ones...can I buy new shoes and use the old cleats and pedals? Or did they change something in the design where I'd have to upgrade everything?

aerius · « **Reply #275 on:** 8 Apr 2007, 05:06 pm »

Sounds like you have a pair of the original SPuDs. New shoes are all still compatible with those vintage pedals & cleats, but I can't remember if Shimano as tweaked their cleat design a bit over the years. I think today's SPD cleats will still work with the old SPuDs but I don't know for sure.

Bemopti123 · « **Reply #276 on:** 8 Apr 2007, 05:18 pm »

Quote from: PhilNYC on 8 Apr 2007, 01:35 pm

Quick question for you long-time mountain bikers; My mountain bike has Shimano clipless pedals that I put on them back in 1994. I believe the model number was something like the 757, but I can't remember for sure...all I know is that they were the "top" Shimano pedal at the time.

I'm looking for some new mtn shoes, and I'm wondering if the latest Shimano clipless pedal system is compatible with the old ones...can I buy new shoes and use the old cleats and pedals? Or did they change something in the design where I'd have to upgrade everything?

I think there would not be much issue with newer shoes and the SPDs, because I doubt that Shimano can force all these OEM manufacturers and other more respectable ones to change the geometry or the layout of the SPD clicks on a whim. The SPD cleat systems are so well embraced that even more alternative types of pedal and cleat manufacturers make sure that their cleats are compatible with Shimano screw positioning, as in SPDs.

Always can take either your older shoes or the pedals themselves to a shop and double check, I do doubt you need to do this.

Daryl · « **Reply #277 on:** 8 Apr 2007, 07:26 pm »

Just wanted to get a picture of my money pit into this thread.

An ultralight (19lb) steel bicycle I built one piece at time over four years and $4000.

3.7lb steel Bianchi Reparto Corsa frame.
Pauls Stop lights and Compact Love Levers
Chris King hubs and headset
Bontrager Valiant Rims (offcenter rear) laced radial/three cross rear and radial front with 14/17 spokes
Sachs Quartz deraileurs
Synchros crankset and World Class Ti bottom bracket
Ti Frogs pedals

beat · « **Reply #278 on:** 9 Apr 2007, 04:17 am »

Sweet ride daryl! Me likey.

Hey Phil, take a look at the picture on the link I posted earlier. Those are the pedals I have had since like 91. I bet they are the same. Either way they work perfectly with new shoes and cleats. I still like them alot. They clamp down really snug and I believe that some downhillers seek them for that reason...like ski bindings. That is what a buddy of mine told me anyway.

PhilNYC · « **Reply #279 on:** 9 Apr 2007, 11:59 am »

Thanks for the responses about the pedals, guys. Looks like I shouldn't have a problem with getting new shoes...