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Thanks for the heads-up on these boards. They look nice, but like you, I wanted to wait and see what the verdict was on these boards. I think they're going fast.
I assume it's best to get these little amp boards without volume and or tone controls. My question is what is everybody recommending for controlling volume? My current set-up is PC based, and I am using the PC's volume control which I know isn't the best method.Soo.... What is the best "Cheap-N-Cheerful" pre-amp addition to my current PC based TPA3110 set-up to control volume? This whole pre-amp thing has me thoroughly confused. Active; passive; stepped attenuator; buffer; optocoupler; tube; solid state, etc, etc. What things do I need to consider before introducing a pre-amp ahead these little amp boards?I see this warning that comes with the TPA3110 Sure amp instructions. Does it mean a pre-amp should not be used at all??:http://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/brochures/320-329-parts-express-brochure.pdfIf this should really be a new thread, please move it.
That's a strange warning. You can ignore it. My guess is the 3110 is set to 32 or 36db gain. So preamps with gain may need some care, but then just follow Warning 4. These direct from China components often come with poorly worded instructions, so just ignore it.
How do you change the 3110 gain from 32 or 36 to either 26 or 20 if you cared to do that?
According to the specs it has 26db gain:http://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/brochures/320-329-parts-express-brochure.pdf
Then you can completely ignore the warning. Have no idea what they're trying to say.@shadowlight. You change some resistors. However the Sure smd resistors are pretty darn small so unless you're real good with a solder iron you're stuck with the 26. No jumpers on there. I personally prefer the 36db gain for my setup and swapped the resistors on the 3116 board, which is easier to work on.
How do you change the 3110 gain from 32 or 36 to either 26 or 20 if you cared to do that? On the eval board picture on TI's website there are jumpers for gain0 and gain1 to set the gain. Will have to take a look at the sure board again to see if something similar exists.
I assume it's best to get these little amp boards without volume and or tone controls. My question is what is everybody recommending for controlling volume? My current set-up is PC based, and I am using the PC's volume control which I know isn't the best method.Soo.... What is the best "Cheap-N-Cheerful" pre-amp addition to my current PC based TPA3110 set-up to control volume? This whole pre-amp thing has me thoroughly confused. Active; passive; stepped attenuator; buffer; optocoupler; tube; solid state, etc, etc. What things do I need to consider before introducing a pre-amp ahead these little amp boards?
I've been using my Sure TPA3110D2 amp with my Audio Research LS7 line stage and PH5 phono stage with no problems. Even though I have an SMD soldering station, swapping in new resistors is a real pain.
For a "Cheap and Cheerful" (i.e., low cost, good performing) volume pot, I recommend Panasonic EVJ-Y10F03A54, 50kohm log taper with metal bushing. These are transparent, good-balanced volume pots, and they only cost $1.70 at Digikey. The issue that most people have with using them is the 2mm spacing between pins and the irregular pin-out. Soldering wires to these pins can be challenging, but it is possible with patience.
I've been using my Sure TPA3110D2 amp with my Audio Research LS7 line stage and PH5 phono stage with no problems. Even though I have an SMD soldering station, swapping in new resistors is a real pain.Section 2.6 of the Sure Electronics manual recommends that if a volume control (potentiometer or stepped attenuator) is used, it should be 50kohm. For a "Cheap and Cheerful" (i.e., low cost, good performing) volume pot, I recommend Panasonic EVJ-Y10F03A54, 50kohm log taper with metal bushing. These are transparent, good-balanced volume pots, and they only cost $1.70 at Digikey. The issue that most people have with using them is the 2mm spacing between pins and the irregular pin-out. Soldering wires to these pins can be challenging, but it is possible with patience. I recommend tinning the pins first and removing any excess solder with a solder sucking tool. You will need a "third hand" tool to properly position the wire on each pin to make good physical contact before soldering.I usually use Teflon tubing to insulate the joint and serve as a strain relief on the soldered joints, but heat shrink is also good for this too.
Thanks for the suggestion...I guess that is truly Cheap and Cheerful I was looking for a pre-amp solution, but I should give this a try as well. If this pot sounds pretty good, I do need more soldering experience. I wasn't thinking about getting it with 2mm spacing However, it's cheap enough to get a couple, and try it! What size wire is needed? Could I strip out the wires from Cat 5 cable? Are the 2 outside pins not used? Still would like C&C pre-amp suggestions...
For C&C Preamp - I am thinking about getting the Aikido 6SN7 preamp and making an integrated amp/preamp. The other option is checking in with Gary Dodd (depending on how his health is doing) and see if he still has the DIY buffer kit.
That is not a dumb idea. Perhaps instead, you could solder a screw terminal block at the DC power input and feed your power supply wires along with the leads of a 2,200uF / 25V cap ("+" to "+" and "-" to "-"). This way, you'll have the ability to test different caps and levels of capacitance to get the sound quality you want. I would still replace the stock 220uF / 25V power supply caps with better 1,000 to 1,500uF / 25V low ESR caps. You want really good, low ESR caps as close to the amplifier chip as possible.
