$175 Class D amp--120 wpc

I.Greyhound Fan · « **Reply #2800 on:** 2 Oct 2011, 01:45 am »

Quote from: firedog on 1 Oct 2011, 06:45 am

Larry, I like some of those, but isn't that site selling wholesale? Can you order one or two switches?

The chassis can be bought from par metal but the power switch can be bought from Digikey or Future Electronics.

J Payton · « **Reply #2801 on:** 2 Oct 2011, 01:02 pm »

Most of the switches you have been showing are momentary on or off style.

To make them work in your application you need something like this as well.

http://www.amb.org/audio/epsilon24/

I used one of those style switches in a UCD amp I put together once.

JP

I.Greyhound Fan · « **Reply #2802 on:** 3 Oct 2011, 02:57 am »

I am pretty sure they make a version that is on-off.
But I am not sure if they will work, thats why I was posting here to get some opnions and help.

http://www.e-switch.com/product/tabid/96/productid/73/sename/pv2-series-water-resistant-long-life-anti-vandal-switches/default.aspx#

http://www.e-switch.com/product/tabid/96/productid/77/sename/pv6-series-illuminated-sealed-long-life-anti-vandal-switches/default.aspx#

StevenZ · « **Reply #2803 on:** 9 Oct 2011, 11:31 am »

Hey guys, I'm sure glad I found this thread. I recently bought Tom's SDS-224 kit and have a couple questions. For some reason he seems to be hesitant to answer my emails regarding much needed product information. Hopefully you guys can shed some light on the situation.

Question 1. Looking at his transformer wiring diagram all the leads from the transformer are accounted for except for one lead which is purple. I can't find anywhere on his website that addresses this wire. I've heard from another person that it may be a chassis ground. Problem 1, I have an all wooden chassis. What do I do with this lead in this case?

Question 2. I have a very nice preamp, so is it possible to just not hook up the gain pots? Or are they required to complete a circuit of some sorts? In my opinion it'd be best to do all the volume attenuation with my preamp instead, but if I'm wrong and it's a necessity that these are connected, then it is what it is. I also have no idea how to wire these, as my kit came with zero paperwork besides for the transformer wiring diagram.

Question 3. Is there a certain type of LED's to use? It looks like it uses 4 molex connectors for external LED's. I don't mind using these, but could use an idea of exactly what I need these to be. Also, are these required to be used? Ideally I'd like to not have crazy bright LED's, and if again, I could just not hook them up I think it'd be the best solution.

I look forward to you guys' input.

Thanks,
StevenZ

Nick77 · « **Reply #2804 on:** 9 Oct 2011, 12:41 pm »

Steven welcome, that purple wire is a secondary and just gets taped off.

The pots have to be connected, you will find diagrams a few pages back.

Led's need not be connected.

Enjoy

Quote from: StevenZ on 9 Oct 2011, 11:31 am

Hey guys, I'm sure glad I found this thread. I recently bought Tom's SDS-224 kit and have a couple questions. For some reason he seems to be hesitant to answer my emails regarding much needed product information. Hopefully you guys can shed some light on the situation.

Question 1. Looking at his transformer wiring diagram all the leads from the transformer are accounted for except for one lead which is purple. I can't find anywhere on his website that addresses this wire. I've heard from another person that it may be a chassis ground. Problem 1, I have an all wooden chassis. What do I do with this lead in this case?

Question 2. I have a very nice preamp, so is it possible to just not hook up the gain pots? Or are they required to complete a circuit of some sorts? In my opinion it'd be best to do all the volume attenuation with my preamp instead, but if I'm wrong and it's a necessity that these are connected, then it is what it is. I also have no idea how to wire these, as my kit came with zero paperwork besides for the transformer wiring diagram.

Question 3. Is there a certain type of LED's to use? It looks like it uses 4 molex connectors for external LED's. I don't mind using these, but could use an idea of exactly what I need these to be. Also, are these required to be used? Ideally I'd like to not have crazy bright LED's, and if again, I could just not hook them up I think it'd be the best solution.

I look forward to you guys' input.

Thanks,
StevenZ

poseidonsvoice · « **Reply #2805 on:** 9 Oct 2011, 01:19 pm »

Quote from: StevenZ on 9 Oct 2011, 11:31 am

Hey guys, I'm sure glad I found this thread...

Question 2. I have a very nice preamp, so is it possible to just not hook up the gain pots? Or are they required to complete a circuit of some sorts? In my opinion it'd be best to do all the volume attenuation with my preamp instead, but if I'm wrong and it's a necessity that these are connected, then it is what it is. I also have no idea how to wire these, as my kit came with zero paperwork besides for the transformer wiring diagram.

I look forward to you guys' input.

Thanks,
StevenZ

Steve,

Study this picture, and forget about the color of the wires, just STUDY the orientation of what goes where with the respect to the pot orientation and the Molex connector:

You *can* replace the pot(s) with resistors, instructions on that is available here.

Anand.

StevenZ · « **Reply #2806 on:** 9 Oct 2011, 04:47 pm »

Thanks for the help guys. I got everything soldered up and ready to throw in the chassis. Regarding the purple wire, I just noticed that there is a standoff on the amplifier board that has an arrow pointing to it with the print "Chassis Ground" written near it. If the purple wire is indeed a chassis ground and this has chassis ground written on it, does it not make sense to connect the purple wire to this standoff?

I'm very excited to get this amp up and running. You guys are great, and I can tell this forum is a great place to learn and meet new people with the same passion.

Thanks!

Nick77 · « **Reply #2807 on:** 9 Oct 2011, 07:54 pm »

Quote from: StevenZ on 9 Oct 2011, 04:47 pm

Thanks for the help guys. I got everything soldered up and ready to throw in the chassis. Regarding the purple wire, I just noticed that there is a standoff on the amplifier board that has an arrow pointing to it with the print "Chassis Ground" written near it. If the purple wire is indeed a chassis ground and this has chassis ground written on it, does it not make sense to connect the purple wire to this standoff?

I'm very excited to get this amp up and running. You guys are great, and I can tell this forum is a great place to learn and meet new people with the same passion.

Thanks!

No it is not a ground wire, Tom has said before that a ground isnt essential on these units. My unit is in a wood case without a ground. DO NOT connect the purple wire to chassis!!!

roymail · « **Reply #2808 on:** 9 Oct 2011, 09:37 pm »

StevenZ, welcome to AC.

Both Anand and Keith (Nick77) are trustworthy sources and have been down this road before. Just make certain to use the correct transformer green and blue secondaries for the power supply input or CT marked GND. Tom may have marked them for you. They are the two middle wires of the four.

All the best, and please post your impressions of the amp when you get it going.

justinm · « **Reply #2809 on:** 12 Oct 2011, 10:34 pm »

I am thinking about getting the SDS-470 for a pair of Dayton RS265HF sealed subs but need to know if they come with pots or are they fixed? I was looking at the picture on the previous page and it looked like they would use the pots. I need the pots to match the levels with my SDS-254 and tubed preamp and active cross over. I tried one 254 on the subs but they dont seem to have enough power and got pretty warm to the touch very quickly. Im running them with two Dayton SA240s and they go deeper and a lot louder but dont sound nearly as good as the SDS254 did. I think these subs are just very power hungry and need alot of head room. I also think the SDS-470 would probably be just right. Any one else using these subs?

matt_garman · « **Reply #2810 on:** 13 Oct 2011, 02:14 am »

Quote from: justinm on 12 Oct 2011, 10:34 pm

I am thinking about getting the SDS-470 for a pair of Dayton RS265HF sealed subs but need to know if they come with pots or are they fixed? I was looking at the picture on the previous page and it looked like they would use the pots. I need the pots to match the levels with my SDS-254 and tubed preamp and active cross over. I tried one 254 on the subs but they dont seem to have enough power and got pretty warm to the touch very quickly. Im running them with two Dayton SA240s and they go deeper and a lot louder but dont sound nearly as good as the SDS254 did. I think these subs are just very power hungry and need alot of head room. I also think the SDS-470 would probably be just right. Any one else using these subs?

I have the SDS-470. I haven't built it yet, but I can say for sure that it has the pots. If I'm not mistaken, all of the SDS series have the pots; I believe it's part of the upgraded feature list that commands the price increase over the CDA series.

justinm · « **Reply #2811 on:** 13 Oct 2011, 06:31 am »

Thanks Matt, glad to here this and will be ordering one soon.

justinm · « **Reply #2812 on:** 14 Oct 2011, 12:35 am »

Does the SDS-470 come with the transformer in kit form, I didnt see it mentioned on web site only heavy duty P/S? What size is it or should I order if it isnt part of the kit? Thanks

I.Greyhound Fan · « **Reply #2813 on:** 14 Oct 2011, 01:31 am »

I just received my used CDA-254 today and I want to add an external power switch. Does any one know if I have to hook up the LED lights or can I leave the holes in the circuit board empty?

Also, what external power switches are people using?

I have been looking at these listed below in the link but I do not know if they have the right specs. What amp rating do I need?Can I get some opinions?

http://www.e-switch.com/product/tabid/96/productid/77/sename/pv6-series-illuminated-sealed-long-life-anti-vandal-switches/default.aspx

http://www.e-switch.com/product/tabid/96/productid/73/sename/pv2-series-water-resistant-long-life-anti-vandal-switches/default.aspx#

Thanks for the help,

Larry

TrungT · « **Reply #2814 on:** 14 Oct 2011, 01:53 am »

Justinm - I think you can order the SDS-470 with or without transformer, but I would check out the completed build, it has a great value.
Lary - Are you got your used CDA-254 board only or what else?
Sorry, it's not clear on your question.
e-switch only rating for 2A 48V DC and need 2.8V DC for the LED.

I.Greyhound Fan · « **Reply #2815 on:** 14 Oct 2011, 02:35 am »

Trung, I bought a fully built CDA-254S in a wooden chassi. I am going to put it in this chassi-

http://www.par-metal.com/product-ttp-20series.php

One of the boards on the CDA-254 has connections to hook up an out board power switch- Scroll down to power switch connections in the link to the manual-

http://classdaudio.com/documents/35V_Manual.pdf

Will this power switch work-

http://www.e-switch.com/product/tabid/96/productid/150/sename/rra-series-round-illuminated-power-rocker-switches/default.aspx#

TrungT · « **Reply #2816 on:** 14 Oct 2011, 02:53 am »

Lary
If you use the remote switch on the main board, the E-Switch should be fine, but the LED won't work
See your PM

matt_garman · « **Reply #2817 on:** 14 Oct 2011, 12:32 pm »

Quote from: justinm on 14 Oct 2011, 12:35 am

Does the SDS-470 come with the transformer in kit form, I didnt see it mentioned on web site only heavy duty P/S? What size is it or should I order if it isnt part of the kit? Thanks

The website isn't updated, so it doesn't show the full SDS-470 kit (board + PSU + xformer). Just contact Tom directly via email and he'll give you instructions on how to order it. That's what I did.

wgscott · « **Reply #2818 on:** 15 Oct 2011, 05:01 am »

Quote from: Nick77 on 9 Oct 2011, 12:41 pm

Steven welcome, that purple wire is a secondary and just gets taped off.

It is a ground wire, so you can ground it too. (Doesn't seem to make any difference.) It says this on the transformer, and I confirmed with Tom.

Quote

The pots have to be connected, you will find diagrams a few pages back.

or replaced with resistors (see previous posts).

StevenZ · « **Reply #2819 on:** 15 Oct 2011, 10:46 am »

wgscott, so you're saying it's okay to connect the purple wire to the top lug on my IEC connector? If so, that's what I'll do.

So just a quick update, I pulled through last night and feverishly hooked everything up. Got it fired up by early morning and will leave it on for about 150 hours of burn-in. I have a serious concern. My amp is running pretty warm. I wouldn't say hot. I can hold my hand on the heat sink indefinitely BUT for being class D I was expecting it to run cool, or even ice cold. Am I wrong in thinking this way? Is everyone's amps running this warm? My amp isn't even playing music and it's this warm. Plus the top is off.

If you guys would like to see photos of my build as well as other speakers I've built please see my image hosting website. Szaiontz.imgur.com

As for me, I'll solder up that purple wire here in a few.

Thanks!
Steven