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Here are the resistor values listed a while back that will adjust the gain downward. I've found the 5K resistor to be a nice starting place (cuts the gain down to 24 db or so)... but with a preamp with the amount of gain you have, you may find yourself liking even less gain in the amp."For those who wish to change the pots for fixed resistors, here are resistor values to produce required gain. Gain is listed in dB: To change gain potentiometer to a fixed resistor, you would connect a fixed resistor between the yellow and black wires on the gain controls (of course, remove the gain pots). Leave the red wire disconnected. Use high quality 1% resistors: 1/2 watt is sufficient.560 Ohm = 31 dB1K = 30 dB2.2K = 27 dB5.2K = 23 dB6.2K = 18 dB7.5K = 16 dBI hope this is of some help. Please feel free to post this on the forums if it will help others. On my personal systems here, I use the same pots that come with the kits."
Your post has given me an idea. Since my preamp has two sets of outputs, I can bi-amp the speakers. I can use the Class AB SS to drive the woofers and drive the electrostatic panels with the CDA254. I can do the level matching of both the power amps by incorporating a resistor of appropriate value. But will this affect the sonics in anyway?
My understanding is that there are more problems than just gain matching when using dissimilar amps for bi-amping. Relative phase is most likely a big problem.Did you ever manage to figure out why you were getting inferior bass? Most people think Class D amps in general are better at bass than treble (and thus one sometimes hears of people who bi-amp with tube amps for treble and Class D for the bass and/or subs).Since the transformer and power supply that is recommended with the kit is comparatively inexpensive (I would have to look but I think $100 for both), why not at least try that to see if it helps?If the bass is problematic with the amp you currently have, do you trust the mid/treble?The Vishay resistors themselves are claimed to be superior in sound to the pots provided in the kit (Tom suggested to me that you would have to have a golden ear to pick out the difference).
Not positive, but I believe the CDA amps do not have adjustable gain pots... they are preset to a fixed gain. Are you talking about changing a resistor on the board?
Rajesh: Why not get a SMPS from Connex?
^^^Thanks! Tom e-mailed me the following, apply it if you have the same color as me, or follow the picture above or the one after Tom's directions"Thank you for pointing that out to me. I forget we just got in new wires and they’re different color than the last. Now, with the pot shaft facing toward you and the pins of the pot facing up, the black wire goes to the right pot pin, the white to the center pin, and the red to the left pin."If you have little to no volume with an SDS, the pot is probably the problem...
Thanks Praedet, that's helpful. Just need some direction on the balanced set up now. The amps are wonderful but he could do with a copyeditor for the instructions...
Thanks Anand. I appreciate that, especially the tip on ground. Do I also need to remove the jumper, or not?
Are there any known issues with connecting a subwoofer at speaker level with a Class D Audio amp?I've heard, for example, Rel T-series don't play well with (at least some) Class D amps.
Has anyone compared the sound of these amps to Virtue's Tripath based amps? Which did you like better?Has anyone tried them with GR-Research N3S or N2X speakers? How is the sound?