[jimdgoulding]

Thanks for your information.  I will most likely order at some point.  I'll inquire again about that time.  Love your avatar (enlarged at the site)!   

[michaelv]

Hi Dennis

"From what I gather, most are confused with: (1) difference between series and parallel, that is, the difference between "prior to your system" (after ~) from "same outlet as the component"; (2) orientation of the PE (newer version with only 2 pins)."

1.  Series and parallel is the difference in how the duplex outlet is wired in reference to the filter and component.  US spec outlets use a straight buss between the top and bottom receptacle to pass electricity.  The buss that is located on the side of the duplex causes the series vs parallel dilemma.  What we would like to see is the following:

All in wall wire enters the duplex via the bottom receptacle.  The PE plugs into the bottom receptacle.  This arrangement places the PE in series with the top receptacle.  With that said, the side H/N buss passes the PE filtered a/c to the top receptacle.  Plug the component into the top receptacle.  This description is what I consider to be series filtering.  Series filtering removes stray inductance prior to the PE on the circuit and injects our filter bandwidth (ringing frequency) into the component which is placed after the PE on the circuit.  Parallel filtering is just the opposite, the in-wall wiring enters the top receptacle.  The component is plugged into the top receptacle, and the PE is plugged into the bottom.  In this situation the PE will increase the magnetic build up (increased inductance) inside the outlet.  Series provides a bright/more dynamic sound and parallel provides a warmer tonal balance. 

Series also provides power factor correction, circuit isolation, and rfi / emi reduction.  Parallel only provides rfi / emi reduction. 

2.  The PE has NEVER been designed with 3 prongs.  It has always been a 2 prong filter.  We use the case vendors stock photo on the web site because Jen's digital camera sucks.  The pictures always come out dark and fuzzy.  If anyone would like to take a picture of the filter I would be greatly appreciated.  Send the pic to my e-mail account: alanpmaher@alanmaherdesigns.com

Alan Maher

Alan Maher Designs
http://www.alanmaherdesigns.com 

Alan,
 I have Oyaide receptacle like the one in the link below
http://oyaide.com/e_audio/audio_products_files/swo_ultimo.htm

  I see it has one screw each side.  I look at the wall again , i see 2 wires inserted into each side of the receptacle (there are 2 holes for each side)

  Based on my outlet, is it series or parallel?   I currently connect my ps audio conditioner (which has all my components connected to)  to the top of outlet and PE to the bottom outlet.

Thanks very much.

[alanmaher]

Hi Mike.

The Oyaide duplex uses a T-bar connection to wire the receptacles compared to US spec which uses a straight bar.  No matter what you do with the Oyaide duplex it will always be wire in parallel.  The T-bar is standard for Japanese spec.

Now with all that said, how does the PE sound installed in the bottom receptacle? 

Are we talking about a shared or dedicated circuit? 

Have you looked at the idea of using a a/c male or iec liberator cable to place the PE in series with the component if this is what you are trying to do?

We have a few inexpensive ways to get past the T-bar problem.  A lot of my clients recently have tried and favor the iec liberator with the PE series compared to plugging the filter into the wall outlet.  Placing the filter closer to the component power supply magnifies the PE effect.

[michaelv]

Hi Mike.

The Oyaide duplex uses a T-bar connection to wire the receptacles compared to US spec which uses a straight bar.  No matter what you do with the Oyaide duplex it will always be wire in parallel.  The T-bar is standard for Japanese spec.

Now with all that said, how does the PE sound installed in the bottom receptacle? 

Are we talking about a shared or dedicated circuit? 

Have you looked at the idea of using a a/c male or iec liberator cable to place the PE in series with the component if this is what you are trying to do?

We have a few inexpensive ways to get past the T-bar problem.  A lot of my clients recently have tried and favor the iec liberator with the PE series compared to plugging the filter into the wall outlet.  Placing the filter closer to the component power supply magnifies the PE effect.

I used to have 2 PEs , but i move one PE to my video system.

To answer your question:
With PE installed at the bottom of receptacle (ground is facing down , per instruction came with PE), the sound is : clean, low noise. The mid is sweet and the bass is tighter. Basically, the system is neutral which i like. I just want to get the most out of my system.

The circuit in my listening room shared with the circuit in adjacent room ( when i turn of breaker, all the receptacles in both rooms are disconnected). And only my audio gears use the power for this line. Should i consider it as a dedicated line?

So, i'm debating whether i should get one PE IV  in addition to PE   or , just getting PE IV in audio system, and move PE to somewhere else in the house ( probably video system?)


thanks very much.

[alanmaher]

Shared is good...what I would do is place a PE IV in the bottom receptacle of the Oyaide duplex and move the PE one outlet over.  Listen to the outlet on the left and right side of the Oyaide to see which sounds brighter after 20 to 25 minutes.  Place the PE in the brighter sounding duplex.

What you need is a plan.  My suggestion is to pick up 1 to 3 PE's per non-a/v circuit over time.  For the audio circuit pick up 1 PE II, 1 PE III, and 1 PE IV.  Keep 1 PE on the audio circuit and move the other PE to another circuit in the house.  For video pick up 1 PE IV to be used in concert with the PE already installed on the circuit.

[Phil]

Jim,

I've done a direct comparison of one quiet line filter vs. one PE.  The quiet line never had any effect on anything I tried it on.  In comparison, remvoing the quiet line from the outlet feeding the digital source and plugging in the PE (takes a while to charge up) made a huge difference.  I could hardly believe my ears (since I'm using a dedicated line and an equi=tech balanced power unit I wasn't expecting much).

While I know systems are very different, I've read so many posts by folks with very different systems that I have to believe the PE works as long as you find the right place in your system chain.

Phil

[Big Red Machine]

Phil, is the PE plugged into the Equitech?

[Phil]

BRM,

One PE1 plugged into the equi=tech (same duplex as source's cord), one shares a duplex with the equi=tech and one shares the outlet with the amp (two dedicated lines; equi=tech used for source only). 

I tried them in various combinations but this yielded the best results in my system.

 

[alanmaher]

Phil...was that my recommendation?  You are correct in assuming the PE works in all situations and systems, but the tuning effect takes a little time on the clients part to find the best location and/or application.  Tuning the circuit is a real eye opener for clients who just believe in plug and play.  The PE series provides infinite tonal variations if the client takes the time to match his/her system/musical preference.

BTW, Phil...a PE IV at the Equi-Tech wall outlet is a nice step up for future mods.

[Phil]

Alan,
Yes, the configuration is what you recommended.  I did try some variations, but your suggested setup was best.  That was before the PEIV      Currently, I'm breaking in new speaker cables and want to wait a bit before I try the PE IV, but given Robin's experience, it is only a matter of time.   

I have a question about outlets.  You mentioned that Oyaide uses a T-bar.  Does Furutech use the same construction? 

Robin,
I'm following your PEIM with great interest.   I know how much you love your BPT and if the PE IV makes that much difference, I'm sure I'll try, and love, the PEIV.  My new speaker cables (I think you can guess the company) are already giving me a much more organic, lively and open sound.  I want to live with that for a while before making more changes.  This is getting closer to live sound!

Phil

[alanmaher]

Phil

I haven't seen Furutech outlets since they were first introduced to the US market.  Honestly, I don't remember the built quality or sound quality...sorry. 

[alanmaher]

Update...just checked the Furutech site, they use a US spec solid bar.

[Phil]

Thanks, Alan.  Do you have other suggestions for good outlets?

[denjo]

Alan's Studio Reference power cord and two PEs (Mark II and III) are synergising very well! Will report when things have settled down more.

[alanmaher]

Phil

The best outlet is no outlet.  With that said since that's not code, the outlet market has little to offer the audiophile/videophile.  A direct hard wire to the in wall offers a warm tonal balance that provides excellent sound stage dimension and a sweet top end.  I think everyone should do a direct hard wire experiment at least once so they understand how bad the duplex colors the line harmonics.  Based off your experiment you should find an outlet that provides a similar synergy with your stereo components.  All outlets will react differently based off the power supply interaction.  I think it's safe to say certain metals and plastics vibrate at different frequencies pending total current draw vs. resonate coupling materials.  Plaster walls will vibrate different from sheetrock and wood outlet covers (including exotic woods) will vibrate differently from metal, plastic, or ceramic.  All of these things must be taken into account because in a way they all inject small harmonic colorations that the power supplies have to try to filter out.

In my set up I use non-plated Hubbell 8300IG outlets.  In order to deal with the harmonic ringing I hard wire a Hammond 193L to each outlet (output of balance a/c unit).  A PE per duplex is added for additional filtering.  More PE's (various models) and Hammond 193M's are added to the primary side and throughout the home for additional filtering and resonate tuning.

[alanmaher]

denjo

As I mentioned to Phil, a standard PE and PE IV (if you don't already own one) will provide another step up in sound quality for your set up.  After that, more Studio Series power cords should be added for the entire system.  As you are beginning to experience, each added Studio Reference will couple to the others installed on the same circuit and continue to extend the bandwidth of the entire circuit.  PRT provides the next advancement in circuit filtering and tuning for our product line.

[Bill@LakeGeorge]

denjo

As I mentioned to Phil, a standard PE and PE IV (if you don't already own one) will provide another step up in sound quality for your set up.  After that, more Studio Series power cords should be added for the entire system.  As you are beginning to experience, each added Studio Reference will couple to the others installed on the same circuit and continue to extend the bandwidth of the entire circuit.  PRT provides the next advancement in circuit filtering and tuning for our product line.

Alan, what is PRT?

[alanmaher]

PRT stands for passive resonate technology.  It is a combination of shielding techniques, insulators, wire geometry, and resonate technology.

[alanmaher]

Update:  I started to put the pre-orders together today.  The Jan 28 - Feb 2 orders are right on schedule.  We will start shipping out on Monday. 

[mercman]

Alan,

I'm sorry to say that after 9 days of break-in on the 3 PE I purchased, I have reached the following conclusion:

YOU CAN'T HAVE THEM BACK!!!

These things are absolutely wonderful!

I'm looking forward to hearing the PEIV that is on order.

Steve