The Bully Build Begins

robwm · « **Reply #20 on:** 25 Mar 2025, 03:04 pm »

After two weeks of work, this is where my project stands.

NIGHTFALL1970 · « **Reply #21 on:** 25 Mar 2025, 04:18 pm »

Very cool!😎

Tyson · « **Reply #22 on:** 25 Mar 2025, 07:46 pm »

Nice progress! I’d put in the NoRez next.

KTS · « **Reply #23 on:** 25 Mar 2025, 11:20 pm »

Looking good! If I missed it apologies, but how are you finishing those big boys? Veneer? Paint?

robwm · « **Reply #24 on:** 26 Mar 2025, 03:44 pm »

@KTS,

The plan is to use a 1/2" round-over router bit on the front vertical edges. No other edges will be rounded (approved by Danny).

I will roll textured DuraTex to the front and rounded edge. The rest of the cabinet will be covered in a rare veneer as seen below. The veneer will be treated with natural Teak oil to give it some UV resistance as sunlight can change the color of the wood. Then it will be coated with oil-based natural polyurethane and then I will apply some finishing wax.

-Rob

Peter J · « **Reply #25 on:** 26 Mar 2025, 05:48 pm »

Looking good, Rob. Coating thickness is really something one gets a feel for and, just to make things difficult, it changes with different conditions and materials. The idea is simple, spray wet coats just on the verge of sagging or, worse yet, running, and then letting it flow out. Much easier said than done. Even the best painters get sags on occasion.

Experiment with the DuraTex to get the result you want. After messing with it some, I'm not a big fan for a "finished" look. Perhaps eyeball automotive chip guard or rocker schutz and spray over it.

nlitworld · « **Reply #26 on:** 26 Mar 2025, 11:21 pm »

Quote from: Peter J on 26 Mar 2025, 05:48 pm

Even the best painters get sags on occasion.

And every painter has a "worst sag" story.

KTS · « **Reply #27 on:** 27 Mar 2025, 10:07 am »

Quote from: robwm on 26 Mar 2025, 03:44 pm

@KTS,

The plan is to use a 1/2" round-over router bit on the front vertical edges. No other edges will be rounded (approved by Danny).

I will roll textured DuraTex to the front and rounded edge. The rest of the cabinet will be covered in a rare veneer as seen below. The veneer will be treated with natural Teak oil to give it some UV resistance as sunlight can change the color of the wood. Then it will be coated with oil-based natural polyurethane and then I will apply some finishing wax.

-Rob

Nice, did you not want to veneer the front baffle? The veneer is capable of making the turn on the round overs, or that has been my experience.

robwm · « **Reply #28 on:** 27 Mar 2025, 02:56 pm »

I decided not to veneer the front for a couple of reasons. Through research, I have found that a 3/4" roundover or more is required to smoothly go over the curve without breaking the veneer. If you go to a 3/4" roundover or more, Hobbs says that you need to add more stock to the inside of the cabinet to avoid thinning the cabinet too much. In addition, I would need another $200 sheet of veneer where most of it would be cut away for the drivers. It would also lead to a lot of leftover material that I will never use. On top of all of these facts, my very limited woodworking experience comes from high school woodshop almost 45 years ago. Haven't done any woodworking since.

I feel like it is more cost effective to DuraTex the front. I have seen a few speakers that are black in front and veneered everywhere else and they look pretty cool. 🤷‍♂️

Peter J · « **Reply #29 on:** 27 Mar 2025, 04:18 pm »

Quote from: robwm on 27 Mar 2025, 02:56 pm

I decided not to veneer the front for a couple of reasons. Through research, I have found that a 3/4" roundover or more is required to smoothly go over the curve without breaking the veneer. If you go to a 3/4" roundover or more, Hobbs says that you need to add more stock to the inside of the cabinet to avoid thinning the cabinet too much. In addition, I would need another $200 sheet of veneer where most of it would be cut away for the drivers. It would also lead to a lot of leftover material that I will never use. On top of all of these facts, my very limited woodworking experience comes from high school woodshop almost 45 years ago. Haven't done any woodworking since.

I feel like it is more cost effective to DuraTex the front. I have seen a few speakers that are black in front and veneered everywhere else and they look pretty cool. 🤷‍♂️

Just to clarify, I have successfully veneered 1/2" radius as have many others. This assumes that one is using paper backed veneer and grain is same orientation as radius. With a 1 1/2" thick baffle, a radius of 1 1/2" could be applied without compromising cabinet thickness through the corner. Driver frame intersection could be a concern though. This came up in X-LS discussion, so I drew this to illustrate.

robwm · « **Reply #30 on:** 27 Mar 2025, 04:34 pm »

I appreciate the education but I'm going to have to continue with my plan. I already bought everything, and I can't afford another sheet of veneer. Every time I look at this project, I need to buy "one more thing". I'm to the point now it would have been cheaper to buy them already finished.

If my idea doesn't work out, I'll have to saw off the front baffle and do that part again. lol

Peter J · « **Reply #31 on:** 27 Mar 2025, 04:58 pm »

Quote from: robwm on 27 Mar 2025, 04:34 pm

I appreciate the education but I'm going to have to continue with my plan. I already bought everything, and I can't afford another sheet of veneer. Every time I look at this project, I need to buy "one more thing". I'm to the point now it would have been cheaper to buy them already finished.

If my idea doesn't work out, I'll have to saw off the front baffle and do that part again. lol

Wasn't really trying to change your mind, Rob, just correct some info. Carry on!

Scope creep is my day-to-day ritual, it seems. To solve, I quit keeping track.

Tyson · « **Reply #32 on:** 27 Mar 2025, 05:23 pm »

Quote from: robwm on 27 Mar 2025, 04:34 pm

I appreciate the education but I'm going to have to continue with my plan. I already bought everything, and I can't afford another sheet of veneer. Every time I look at this project, I need to buy "one more thing". I'm to the point now it would have been cheaper to buy them already finished.

If my idea doesn't work out, I'll have to saw off the front baffle and do that part again. lol

I completely understand this remark

Craig Young · « **Reply #33 on:** 27 Mar 2025, 07:33 pm »

Somewhere here in AC a much appreciated share about veneer and a job that would outlast our normal application method. It was a talk about curing in a plastic wrap and vacuum sealed pressure and I can't remember if heat was used. I love the look of veneer, but it was duratex on everything for me with white color on audio gear and black color on all of my multi channel tv speakers.

Thank You for taking the time and energy to share your experience on an amazing project.

KTS · « **Reply #34 on:** 27 Mar 2025, 11:34 pm »

Quote from: robwm on 27 Mar 2025, 04:34 pm

I appreciate the education but I'm going to have to continue with my plan. I already bought everything, and I can't afford another sheet of veneer. Every time I look at this project, I need to buy "one more thing". I'm to the point now it would have been cheaper to buy them already finished.

If my idea doesn't work out, I'll have to saw off the front baffle and do that part again. lol

Understood, I was more curious than anything. I have a friend close by that build speakers as well, we share a lot of things when we are building. However ‘need to buy one more thing’ all ways applies for anything I have built.

robwm · « **Reply #35 on:** 28 Mar 2025, 02:31 pm »

I didn't make any progress last night. I stared at my cabinets for about 5 minutes. I don't even think I blinked.

I finished building the crossover on 3/26. It's ready for wiring now. (fyi - I cut 9" x 9" - 1/4" MDF boards for these crossovers)

Question: I'm conflicted on the order to assemble the back panel. Which process will produce the best results:

Cut and attach the no-rez to the back panel and then glue it in place?
Glue the back in place and then cut/attach the no-rez?

Peter J · « **Reply #36 on:** 28 Mar 2025, 03:12 pm »

Option 2 would be my choice. Unless I'll have no access later, I want to be able to see my glue joints on glue-up.

NIGHTFALL1970 · « **Reply #37 on:** 28 Mar 2025, 03:51 pm »

Rob,
At 9x9 your board is twice as wide as mine. You have way more room to work than I did. I had to replace a resistor that was broken in shipping. Everything was so tight that it took me hours to fix.

robwm · « **Reply #38 on:** 28 Mar 2025, 03:57 pm »

My main problem with Option 1 is that gluing is quite messy. How does the excess glue affect the no-rez you already attached? If it was good for the no-rez, I think Danny would have soaked it in a barrel of wood glue. So, I agree with Option 2, but it will be more difficult to attach the no-rez by some amount.

There is a chamber behind the MTM box that will need no-rez before the back goes on. It will be relatively inaccessible. And, of course, I will precut as much as I can before assembly so it's ready to go. I mean, I could access it after the back is on, but I would have to push the no-rez through the holes of the bracing. It seems like those spaces need no-rez before gluing so those pieces will end up with glue on them to some degree.

I have to use gobs of glue on the back because I'm pretty sure those subwoofers will blow the back off!

robwm · « **Reply #39 on:** 28 Mar 2025, 04:00 pm »

Hobbs gave me some sample photos of a crossover build so I copied the layout they use. I decided 9x9 was about what they used without crowding the parts. There is plenty room on the floor of the speaker, but it also reduces the amount of no-rez on the bottom. I have heard Danny mention to just put polyfil over the crossover.