[robwm]

I was reading about U-Pol Dolphin Glaze and apparently it is not recommended to build up past 2mm. I need more build up than that. In addition, the glaze is only recommended to use on metal, steel, aluminum, galvanized SMC and fiberglass. Wood is not mentioned as something this can be used on.

Does anyone know if DAP Plastic Wood All Purpose Wood Filler would be worth using? I might be able to build it up a bit closer to what I sanded away.

A high performance, solvent based wood filler that hardens to give a repair that is 3x stronger than the wood itself. This professional grade, heavy duty wood filler contains real wood fibers so it looks and acts like real wood. It can be sanded, cut, drilled, screwed, planed, stained, varnished, painted or lacquered. It provides strong nail and screw anchoring without splitting. Dap plastic wood professional wood filler dries fast and hard and is shrink and crack resistant. For use on furniture, doors, paneling, molding, plywood and other wood surfaces. Available in several popular wood shades, this high-performance wood filler can also be stained to match any wood shade. For interior/exterior use.

• Heavy-duty, solvent-based formula
• Contains real wood fibers to simulate original wood characteristics
• Looks and acts like real wood
• Can be sanded, planed, cut, drilled, screwed & nailed
• Easy handling spreads smoothly and evenly
• Thick, knife grade formula can be molded & sculpted and is ideal for corners and vertical surfaces
• Shrink, crack and crumble resistant
• Strong nail & screw anchoring

There is also Minwax High Performance Wood Filler that might work.

[Peter J]

If this is conventional wood filler that air dries, it does almost none of the things listed, IMO. Stick with something that uses a catalyst. You could even start with body filler and then finish with glaze. That's kinda how it's done in the body shop world. I might also start with something like Kitty Hair (reinforced body filler), then finish with glaze.

If you take the high spots off, are you still beyond 2mm fill?

[robwm]

I haven't done any work so far. I need to build up 1/8" - 3/16" in places (maybe slightly thicker) to bring it back to 14". The glaze isn't meant for this type of buildup but that doesn't mean it won't work. I need to skim a surface that is 17.5" x 14".

I'm still trying to settle on the best approach to get this defect corrected. I did buy the glaze, but I might return it if there is a better method. The DAP product sounds promising, but I have no experience with it and reviews are not very helpful.

Are you suggesting using Bondo to build it up some and then finish with the glaze? Apparently, Bondo also has a wood filler.

[nlitworld]

Yeah the Glaze was meant to do in smaller coats but better finished edge to not leave a lip. Regular body filler will have more bulk to it and allow up to 1/4" coats, but can leave a little more mapping of the edge profile. Also the glazing putty is developed for the automotive market, but it absolutely works on wood as well. They just don't put it on their label as it wasnt their intended market. It is funny how many contractors use automilotive filler for their work. Nobody trusts the wood filler stuff as that can be cut with a butter knife  , but it is easy to sand. Lol.

My recommendation if you would rather a single application and sand than two thinner coats would be to return the Dolphin Glaze and grab some of their filler, specifically part#UP0660. This is the same resin, but a more standard Body Filler viscosity that will allow for that thicker build in one single coat. It's also one of the few nice fillers in a quart size. Either way works, just different tools for the same application.

[Peter J]

I think building up to original height may be a lot of work for little return, but I'm not looking at it, so better you judge.  Averaging might be a better approach. I didn't look to see what Lloyd was recommending, but a long sanding block is going to be your friend. You could even make a crude one with a straight edged piece of 2x lumber and sandpaper roll designed for longboard.

[robwm]

Maybe all I should shoot for is to level it off which wouldn't take much work. Perhaps building it back up to original spec is not feasible and leads me down the road to more frustration. Building it back up will be a lot of work. Maybe too much work.

[WGH]

Maybe all I should shoot for is to level it off which wouldn't take much work.

A long sanding block will fix the dip, you might have to make one if a manufactured block is to expensive. The block has be be dead flat and stiff. The longer the better, 24" or 32" would be nice.
Lots of options are available. And stay away from power tools in the future.

Using a soft pencil, draw "S" and squiggles all over the side you will sand. With pressure only on the ends sand off the pencil squiggles on the edges leaving the squiggles in the center. Alternately sand 90°, 180°, 45° going slow checking your work with a steel straight edge making sure the edges don't look like ocean waves turning one problem into two.

24" - https://www.linearblockingtools.com/products/linear-blocking-tools-24-rigid-block
32" - https://www.linearblockingtools.com/products/linear-blocking-tools-32-rigid-block

Video - https://www.facebook.com/linearblockingtools/videos/381756609801693/

[robwm]

I'm going to try the DuraBlock AF4403. It's two inches wider than the surface I am working on. Unfortunately, I managed to make the edges wavy too so it's already a compound problem. If you look back in this thread, I posted measurements and a few pictures that help to show how it's wavy in a few spots. If I'm lucky, it will be close enough that you would have to lay a square on it to really notice.

Lesson learned on power tools. That belt sander ate my lunch for two weeks. 

[robwm]

This is as far as I am willing to go with a repair. The veneer will apply no problem now. From side to side, the surface is level. From top to bottom, the surface is curved inwards a little but nowhere near enough to cause problems with veneer.

[tremrej65]

Great job.

[Peter J]

This is as far as I am willing to go with a repair. The veneer will apply no problem now. From side to side, the surface is level. From top to bottom, the surface is curved inwards a little but nowhere near enough to cause problems with veneer.

Good on you!
On a philosophical note, you learned some things along the way. Not the least of which is to persevere in spite of setbacks. "The mark of a craftsman isn't how perfect his work is, but rather how he covers his mistakes". Or something like that. Carry on.

[robwm]

I was using a 3M dust mask with a carbon coating but had to go buy a 3M respirator instead. I realized pretty quickly that the mask I owned was not going to cut it for this work. I still have to deal with finishes and solvents along the way as well.

That glaze is no joke when it comes to odor. My garage smells like an autobody shop.

[nlitworld]

That glaze is no joke when it comes to odor. My garage smells like an autobody shop.

Lol, yep. It will dissipate but it'll take a minute. Glad things are looking promising. Nice work!

[robwm]

I finished installing the no-rez I had cut for the right speaker. I need to cut four more small pieces to finish that speaker. I'll post a picture after I finish installing the no-rez in the right speaker. I'd like to know if I did it properly.

I need to cut a lot of no-rez for the left speaker. It turns out that three sheets of no-rez covers only one Bully speaker. I ended up buying six sheets to cover everything that makes sense. Outer walls only.

nlitworld - I would like to give you thanks for a solid repair option for my debacle! It was very solid advice. 

[nlitworld]

nlitworld - I would like to give you thanks for a solid repair option for my debacle! It was very solid advice. 

Just trying to pass on all the good karma from when everyone helped me on my NX-Studio build. This group here on AC is always super generous with help and knowledge and we all collectively get excited seeing new speakers getting built. Keep up the good work! 

-Lloyd

[robwm]

I don't think I could make it through this project without you guys. This forum is truly great from a support standpoint. I cannot thank you guys enough!

[robwm]

The Bully speaker DIY should be known as:

Danny Ritchie's Guaranteed Weight Loss Program

I've lost almost 20 lbs since making the purchase. 

[corndog71]

The Bully speaker DIY should be known as:

Danny Ritchie's Guaranteed Weight Loss Program

I've lost almost 20 lbs since making the purchase. 

That’s an unexpected selling point.    I could certainly stand to lose 20 pounds.

[robwm]

This weekend, I was able to get the back panel on the left speaker. In this attempt, I was very meticulous about dry fitting the back panel. I spent a serious amount of time making sure I had a really good fit that could be taken apart without any trouble. It was still a very tight fit, but there were no issues taking it apart.

It took some minor hand sanding to bring the panel to the point I could install and remove it without fear of damage or getting it stuck. Once I reached that point, I installed the no-rez that will become inaccessible once the panel is installed and attempted a dry fit once more. I'm so glad that I did.

I ended up reproducing the exact issue as the other cabinet (without glue this time). The back panel was sticking up about 3/16" just like the other speaker. It turns out that I was using too much precision in my no-rez cuts which allowed it to interfere with the "outside walls" seating properly. I took the dry fit apart and pulled the no-rez off to reposition it (not an easy thing to do). After adjusting the no-rez positioning, it went together as expected, nice and flush.

I did have a minor panic though. After the last dry fit showed that it will seat properly, I added the glue and seated the panel. I noticed it was sticking up in places, but I was at the point of no return now. I kept adding all my clamps (14) and then I noticed the panel was seated flush as it did in the dry fit phase. Apparently, the uncompressed glue joints made it appear as though it would not seat all the way. Clamping fully seated it everywhere around the edges.

To summarize - I was able to install the back on the left speaker, and it mounted very close to flush. I will take almost no sanding to prep the surface for finishing.

Lesson learned - Skipping the dry fit phase at any stage has the potential to completely ruin your project. I learned that dry fitting is so crucial that you could prevent mistakes that should never happen. Please do not skip the time it takes to get a very successful dry fit. I rushed the right speaker by not dry fitting and paid the price of doing so both in money, labor, and personal disappointment.

Tonight, I will install the no-rez in the left speaker and post pictures of my current stage.

-Rob

[robwm]

I have the no-rez installed at this time. I'm not sure if I need any where the input tube connectors are located.