REW

DannyBadorine · « **Reply #120 on:** 11 Nov 2021, 04:28 am »

Something is wrong with those charts. You have huge drops at 65 and 100Hz. It looks like you lowered your sub crossover frequency and raised your mains crossover frequency. These responses don't look nearly as good as before. What's going on?

mkane · « **Reply #121 on:** 11 Nov 2021, 02:48 pm »

I thinks its where I have the dials set. The volume knob level is @ 9:00 where as before it was @ 2:00. Reason being is when it is @ 2 bass spl seem to start out real high. I take some measurements this morning with the knobs back where they were.

Thanks

DannyBadorine · « **Reply #122 on:** 11 Nov 2021, 04:05 pm »

That would make sense. It does look like the sub might just be turned down because it seems like the speakers are in phase now. Double check the crossover frequency on the sub and make sure it's up high also. Is there a crossover for the main speakers or do they naturally roll off the low end like that?

mkane · « **Reply #123 on:** 11 Nov 2021, 04:16 pm »

Theres is a crossover for the mains but I can't adjust it. Here's a reading. The low end is a headscratcher. Why ds's so high?

mkane · « **Reply #124 on:** 11 Nov 2021, 04:38 pm »

I'll move the mic to the listening position

DannyBadorine · « **Reply #125 on:** 11 Nov 2021, 05:14 pm »

I'm not sure why the really low stuff is that high but most of the measurement is pretty flat and is much better than any of the other measurements you've taken. The big jump at the bottom around 20Hz could be a mistake in the measurement or maybe the room is just really excitable there. I wouldn't worry about it too much unless you can actually hear that it's causing problems. The rest of the measurement is really good and I'm interested in how it sounds.

mkane · « **Reply #126 on:** 11 Nov 2021, 05:30 pm »

I need to get some stuff done outside but here's a different measurement. All the furniture's in place and acoustic panels are not up. This exercise was to mainly see if the H frame subs wiring is correct. I really appreciate your feedback.
It says Wedgies but there Super Minis.

DannyBadorine · « **Reply #127 on:** 11 Nov 2021, 05:48 pm »

It looks as though the subs are in phase with the tops. I'm not sure if the subs themselves are wired correctly though. That might be what's causing the huge bump at the low end. This measurement is also a lot different than the one before. You have a downward slope on this one where as the one before was straight through the mid range and top end. I liked the previous one a lot better.

mkane · « **Reply #128 on:** 11 Nov 2021, 06:56 pm »

I'll check sub wiring

mkane · « **Reply #129 on:** 11 Nov 2021, 08:03 pm »

Sub wiring fixed.

Chewbacca · « **Reply #130 on:** 11 Nov 2021, 08:28 pm »

That looks MUCH better! I'm not sure if you're using PEQ, but I would set it to 90 (or maybe the highest is 80?) and raise it as much as you can (I think it's +3db), and play with the width setting to see how much you need to level out. Also - I'd lower your crossover point to be rid of that 270hz peak it's making. This will also let the sub focus more on those lower regions it's better with!

Not sure if any of that helps, or if you've done that already! But upon quick glance, that's what I'd suggest!

Once all that is leveled out - playing with your phase (even if you can't really hear a difference) is really what's going to integrate them in 100%

Big Red Machine · « **Reply #131 on:** 11 Nov 2021, 08:34 pm »

mucho better

it must sound better as well, doesn't it?

DannyBadorine · « **Reply #132 on:** 11 Nov 2021, 09:12 pm »

Ideally, the main speakers would go lower to fill in that dip at 90Hz, but it's also acceptable to raise the subs up to fill it. Otherwise, that looks pretty good.

Chewbacca · « **Reply #133 on:** 11 Nov 2021, 09:19 pm »

Quote from: DannyBadorine on 11 Nov 2021, 09:12 pm

Ideally, the main speakers would go lower to fill in that dip at 90Hz, but it's also acceptable to raise the subs up to fill it. Otherwise, that looks pretty good.

Absolutely agree - But it was mentioned this was not an option, at least currently.

mkane - Curious, are you using a single in line cap as a high pass filter for your mains?

mkane · « **Reply #134 on:** 11 Nov 2021, 11:40 pm »

Here's what I'm using for crossovers on the Super Minis with 2 bypass caps.

I just came back in the house so haven't had a chance to listen. A bit of work to do on the road to home and more work on my wife's front deck.

mkane · « **Reply #135 on:** 12 Nov 2021, 12:03 am »

dials maxed out @ +3 and Freq. @ 80.

mkane · « **Reply #136 on:** 12 Nov 2021, 12:54 am »

I'm going to listen for a while. Thanks folks. Appreciated.

Tomorrow my wife won't be home and I can get treatments back in place.

Tyson · « **Reply #137 on:** 12 Nov 2021, 01:00 am »

Nice work, man.

mkane · « **Reply #138 on:** 12 Nov 2021, 01:51 am »

I couldn't have done it without the patience of DannyBarorine. It was all about the H Frames wiring and with a few more tweeks it's going to be perfect. My wife of 43 years is a very understandable person and enjoys good music also.

Tomorrow I'm on it some more. I love seeking perfection. Same goes with our coffee roasting endeavors.

It's does sound fantastic. Imaging is the best it's ever been. We had Klipsch speakers for over 30 years. Went the DIY OB direction for a few years and finally found GR Research. If I would have found GR sooner my bank account would have appreciated it. I spent lot's of $$$$$$$$$$ on FR drivers.

I need to fix that 90HZ dip.

DannyBadorine · « **Reply #139 on:** 12 Nov 2021, 06:48 am »

It's fun watching your progress on this!
Now, that 90Hz problem..........I see that they are naturally rolling off the low end. The crossover that you show is for the transition between the drivers. It doesn't have a high pass filter (low cut) on the low drivers. This means that we have to get the subs to fill in that 90Hz. Turn the crossover knob up all the way on the sub amp and try that. Also, double check that your subs are wired correctly. I don't have the servo subs but I'm guessing that they must be wired in a way that one sub is wired backwards (opposite of the other one). This will have to be consistent on both sides. The rear facing one should be wired out of polarity.