$75.00 Sharp SD-EX111 : SOLD OUT

doug s. · « **Reply #80 on:** 30 Jan 2005, 05:20 pm »

Quote from: Bemopti123

Thanks for the tip Viggen, now I will plug the Shigaraki transport with the Bel Canto through the Auxiliary. The tuner sound quality in this things is questionable, but the convenience of a remote is great.

get something like a creek obh12, or an audio alchemy dlc. these preamps are awailable for ~$200 used, & will allow you to plug in an outboard cdp *and* an outboard tuna, & still have remote capability. and, dared makes a li'l 2-input remote tubed pre that retails for ~$300. of course ya could yust plug in the tuna; then plug in the cdp, but this is a hassle, imo...

doug s.

dave_c · « **Reply #81 on:** 30 Jan 2005, 06:09 pm »

Just hooked up my computer to the AUX inputs. Using the rear outputs of a Chaintech AV710 in "Hi-Rez" mode and am pretty impressed. I'm sending the speaker outs to the high level inputs of my subwoofer, then on to a pair of Monsoon computer spekears. I cut the RCA leads and connected them to the high level outputs of the sub using bare wire.

The sats stll have no midbass so I have to cross the sub pretty high, but overall I'm happy with the sound. For $75 this was a huge improvement to my computer system. Okay, the sub made a huge difference too, but the Sharp definitely sounds better than the amp built in the "woofer" module of the Monsoon 3 piece kit. Next step is a better pair of speaker so I can cross a little lower.

J@ck · « **Reply #82 on:** 30 Jan 2005, 09:33 pm »

The outpost.com is selling the polkR15 for $60 shipped. That is a pretty good deal.
The R15 is not really an "audiophile" speaker, but it sounds pretty good considering the price. It will be great for a computer setup.

ooheadsoo · « **Reply #83 on:** 30 Jan 2005, 11:00 pm »

I just picked up the R15s for surrounds. My local fry's only had a few left, last night. Might be a good idea to act fast.

Bemopti123 · « **Reply #84 on:** 31 Jan 2005, 12:55 am »

Would there be a way of using this digital amp just as a "amplifier" via the auxiliary inputs? Perhaps I could increase the regular volume to 35 setting and then, slowly put some signal through my preamp, or do you think this might overload the amp?

The auxiliary input it is after all a simple fixed input.

Any comments would be appreciated.

What do you think about this Viggen?

Bemopti123 · « **Reply #85 on:** 31 Jan 2005, 01:11 am »

Wired my First Sound Paramount Hot Rod MKII with just one input via the AUX input of the Sharp, at volume setting 32-35 (max is 40.) Now, the sound is once again more subtly "organic" as the signal of the Shigaraki passes through the Bel Canto and the "cheap" Sharp digital amp. Call this the wildest pairing of them all, a ultra high end monster of a preamp which weights in at 75 lbs and at a cost that is about 110x greater than this Sharp.

The volume does not distort as I increase the signal via the dual mono Vishay ladden type of attenuators. Impressive. Need to audition a little more to determine what is the outcome.

Vinnie R. · « **Reply #86 on:** 31 Jan 2005, 01:41 am »

Quote from: Bemopti123

Would there be a way of using this digital amp just as a "amplifier" via the auxiliary inputs? Perhaps I could increase the regular volume to 35 setting and then, slowly put some signal through my preamp, or do you think this might overload the amp?

The auxiliary input it is after all a simple fixed input.

Any comments would be appreciated.

What do you think about this Viggen?

Bemopti123,

To make the Sharp an "amp only", you need to internally take the AUX input to the power amp section (mod it). Even when you max out the volume and use an external preamp, you are still going through a lot of extra components (digital volume IC, opamps, coupling caps, connectors, etc.).

Anyway, yes, you can max the volume on the Sharp and use an external preamp. You will know if you are overloading the AUX input because you'll hear distortion. If it sounds good, you're doing fine and all is well

Regards,

Vinnie

dave_c · « **Reply #87 on:** 31 Jan 2005, 02:17 am »

So Vinnie, does this mean you've got some mod idea's on this bad boy? I missed the T-amp train so I'm hoping the 111 might be a good alternative.

Any ideas about adding a digital input?

viggen · « **Reply #88 on:** 31 Jan 2005, 10:38 am »

Paul,

You have 3 options.

1) turn the volume control on preamp to max and use the sharp's attenuator.
2) turn the volume control on the sharp to max and use the preamp's attenuator.
3) turn both volume controls to somewhere in between.

Choose which sounds best. Theoretically, you want to use the preamp's attenuator because the sharp probably has a digital attenuator. Years ago, people say digital attenuator reduces resolution of the signal as it attenuates by dropping bits. However, this is probably a moot point with the sharp.

Also, my guess is the aux analog input signal is immediately a/d converted. So, it doesn't matter which attenuator you choose to use. It will probably sound different though depending on which attenuator you rely more on as the extra cable etc. you use with the pre will "equilize" the signal.

Lastly, because the signal coming in the aux is a/d/c, it probably does no good to mod the aux input. However, this doesn't mean you can't mod the sharp's amp section. Which leads us back to the digital amp gurus...

Vinnie R. · « **Reply #89 on:** 31 Jan 2005, 12:42 pm »

Quote from: viggen

Paul,

You have 3 options.

1) turn the volume control on preamp to max and use the sharp's attenuator.
2) turn the volume control on the sharp to max and use the preamp's attenuator.
3) turn both volume controls to somewhere in between.

Choose which sounds best. Theoretically, you want to use the preamp's attenuator because the sharp probably has a digital attenuator. Years ago, people say digital attenuator reduces resolution of the signal as it attenuates by dropping bits. However, this is probably a moot point with the sharp.

Also, my guess is the aux analog input signal is immediately a/d converted. So, it doesn't matter which attenuator you choose to use. It will probably sound different though depending on which attenuator you rely more on as the extra cable etc. you use with the pre will "equilize" the signal.

Lastly, because the signal coming in the aux is a/d/c, it probably does no good to mod the aux input. However, this doesn't mean you can't mod the sharp's amp section. Which leads us back to the digital amp gurus...

Hi Viggen,

Let me provide some info to help clear things up a bit:

>>Theoretically, you want to use the preamp's attenuator because the sharp probably has a digital attenuator. Years ago, people say digital attenuator reduces resolution of the signal as it attenuates by dropping bits. However, this is probably a moot point with the sharp.

The sharp uses a digital IC for the attenuation, but it is actually just a resistor ladder on a chip. The signal goes into the chip analog, and comes out analog. The switching of the resistor ladder of this IC is controlled by a u-controller, but again, the signal stays analog.

>>Also, my guess is the aux analog input signal is immediately a/d converted. So, it doesn't matter which attenuator you choose to use. It will probably sound different though depending on which attenuator you rely more on as the extra cable etc. you use with the pre will "equilize" the signal.

It is not. It is fed to the IC that performs the attenuation in the analog domain (but digitally controlled, as mentioned above).

>>Lastly, because the signal coming in the aux is a/d/c, it probably does no good to mod the aux input.

The conversion of the input signal from analog to digital amplification ONLY takes place in the power amp section. Everything else is analog.

Regards,

Vinnie

CSMR · « **Reply #90 on:** 1 Feb 2005, 05:09 am »

Does anyone know how headphones are driven on the Sharp? Also do does anyone know if the negative terminals can be connected? (I have a nice speaker->headphone adapter which joins the left and right negative inputs, and which doesn't work with my TEAC for this reason.)
Thanks!

eric the red · « **Reply #91 on:** 1 Feb 2005, 06:15 am »

I'd just like to give myself an (slightly tipsy) arm-straining pat on the back for my first thread with over 4400 hits and counting. Who ever knew that AC audio-geeks were so cheap? Carry on

Vinnie R. · « **Reply #92 on:** 1 Feb 2005, 12:46 pm »

Quote from: eric the red

I'd just like to give myself an (slightly tipsy) arm-straining pat on the back for my first thread with over 4400 hits and counting. Who ever knew that AC audio-geeks were so cheap? Carry on

You've done good eric!

Thanks,

Vinnie

CSMR · « **Reply #93 on:** 1 Feb 2005, 05:52 pm »

Quote from: CSMR

Also do does anyone know if the negative terminals can be connected? (I have a nice speaker->headphone adapter which joins the left and right negative inputs, and which doesn't work with my TEAC for this reason.)

I am told the right way to say this is does the amp have a shared ground output?

TIC · « **Reply #94 on:** 1 Feb 2005, 08:29 pm »

Back to the "what inexpensive speaker"question:

Did anyone see the closeout deal at AudioAdvisor for the Wharfdale Diamond 8.1 @ $149.98 including free shipping?!! They are rated 6 ohm and 86db sens.

Has anyone tried these? Based on other speakers you have tried, do you think these specs would present a problem for the Sharp?

This could be a great inexpensive system if the Sharp can adequately power these speakers.

Thanks and enjoy,

TIC

doug s. · « **Reply #95 on:** 1 Feb 2005, 08:36 pm »

Quote from: TIC

Back to the "what inexpensive speaker"question:

Did anyone see the closeout deal at AudioAdvisor for the Wharfdale Diamond 8.1 @ $149.98 including free shipping?!! They are rated 6 ohm and 86db sens.

Has anyone tried these? Based on other speakers you have tried, do you think these specs would present a problem for the Sharp?

This could be a great inexpensive system if the Sharp can adequately power these speakers.

Thanks and enjoy,

TIC

as long as aidui adwisor refuses to stop marketing monster cable products, i recommend not shopping there. i'd also recommend you tell them yout thoughts - *i* have...

ymmv,

doug s.

jackman · « **Reply #96 on:** 1 Feb 2005, 09:13 pm »

Doug,
I disagree with your statement. It's not like Monster killed someone or ripped off someone's designs. There are bigger, more important causes if you want to become an advocate. I try to leave the politics out of this and just deal with the products. Monster didn't break any laws or do anything that warrants a boycot of their distributors.

Audioadvisor is a good distributor with good people who are very honest. I've bought several things from them without any problems. FWIW, Bestbuy, Circuitcity, Tweeter, Partsexpress, etc, all carry Monster products. Anyway, I don't agree with boycotting a distributor but you have the right to do whatever you wish.

Jack

dave_c · « **Reply #97 on:** 1 Feb 2005, 09:23 pm »

I think I might try some NHT Superzero's. They seem small enough to fit on my desk and have a good enough reputation. If I like them, I might try the North Creek Music crossover upgrade too.

I'm also bidding on some small Missions MS-50 that were part of a Denon Mini System. Don't know what those are like, but they're pretty cheap on eBay right now.

I also saw that Tannoy is coming out with a new Sub Sat system called the Arena. Uses a 5" version of ther dual concentric driver. Don't know much about how Tannoy's sound but they look really cool.

I'm sorry to admit that looks are playing a bigger role in my choices now. . .

TIC · « **Reply #98 on:** 1 Feb 2005, 09:39 pm »

I'm with Jack on this one. I have decide not to but any Monster products, but I'm not going to boycott AA because they sell Monster. Heck, I would have to boycott a lot of vendors to "stay honest".

Nope, I'm a fan of AA for bringing some great prices and service to my hobby. I'm gonna support them.

Enjoy,

TIC

doug s. · « **Reply #99 on:** 1 Feb 2005, 09:42 pm »

Quote from: jackman

Doug,
I disagree with your statement. It's not like Monster killed someone or ripped off someone's designs. There are bigger, more important causes if you want to become an advocate. I try to leave the politics out of this and just deal with the products. Monster didn't break any laws or do anything that warrants a boycot of their distributors.

Audioadvisor is a good distributor with good people who are very honest. I've bought several things from them without any problems. FWIW, Bestbuy, Circuitcity, Tweeter, Partsexpress, etc, all carry Monster products. Anyway, I don't agree with boycotting a distributor but you have the right to do whatever you wish.

Jack

hi jack,

i have also had nothing but exemplary dealings w/audio adwisor. but i believe in boycotts, including the other distributors you mention. i also agree that we all should have the right to do as we wish!

regards,

doug s.