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I own two XLS 2500 running bridged . My landlord is a total utility cost freak . He brought down his watt meter to test my amps . At idle not playing music they drew 71 watts from the wall . Music at around 90db they rose to 75 watts . Pretty amazing results !
My speakers are electrostats called KingSound King . Along with a pair of Adam Audio Column MK3 . Use a Grace m903 dac , and a SM Pro - nanopatch volume controller .All cabling is Mogami .All digital files from mac mini running Audirvana + . My gain is set at 3 o clock. I had tried bi amping with another set of 1500 to no sonic advantages . Also have a pair of hypex nc400 mono blocks , Which amps i prefer changes weekly . Also useing Pangea ac14xl power cords on the amps as well as a furman two outlet power conditioner.After reading about some here upgrading binding posts , i will be doing that soon . I do not find the treble bright at all . They seem pretty neutrall in my system .
Roscoeiii , The crowns seem slightly more detailed , with more precise imaging . Bass is tighter , . Ncores seem to have more bloom around notes , and have a deeper-wider sound stage .
Roscoeiii , The crowns seem slightly more detailed , with more precise imaging .
It's about current draw and heat dissipation - needed to determine circuit breaker and ventilation requirements. The 1/3 power rating is to show conditions at maximum possible draw - not a condition you would ever operate intentionally under ("heavy clipping") but it is possible to draw that much. The absolute maximum draw in normal operation would be the rating just above that: 1/8th power ("just at clip"). Since we're talking average program material, with 1/8th power we would be hitting clip on peaks, typically, so we're peaking at 650 w, averaging 81 watts (that's a screaming average power!) and at the same time drawing 4.32 peak amps from the wall. That's 518 watts draw, peak. Under typical listening conditions in the home, you wouldn't be drawing as much as 5 average watts, even playing loud, into the typical speaker. The useful figure is the 0.7 amps it draws when awake but at idle. That's 84 watts with 31 watts dissipated as heat. That's what you will be drawing at any sane listening level (up to 13 watts, RMS or average).Again, that's in heavy clipping - you would never intentionally go or stay there. It's to know the maximum possible draw from the wall, so you won't blow a critical (like the one feeding the lights at the bar) circuit breaker if you do something stupid, like short the outputs with a 4 gauge jumper cable.
I would think that, again, in terms of typical - even loud - domestic use, it wouldn't make any difference in terms of speaker protection. All the limiter is doing is preventing the amp from going into heavy clipping and sending those nasties down the line. I think heavy clipping on this amp would occur at a power point well beyond that at which the typical 2" voice coil on a typical 8-10"woofer had become incandescent. In other words, even with the limiter engaged you would fry your speakers before the amp broke a sweat. I remember Bob Smith (of SPTech/Aether) saying that his speakers' woofer was so clean the voice coil would fry before you heard any signs of distress. Many speakers will signal their distress before damage is done, but these days, with ultra long excursion woofers being quite common and their design preventing voice coil bottoming as an early warning sound, many speakers will fry before they cry.So...caution is called for. Don't plug/unplug interconnects nor drop the needle in the groove at max gain!Thanks for the mention, Jim.
dnlalum , funny you should mention arcing ! With what seems like unlimited power I do have to be careful . I can pretty much drive the speakers to what seems like endless volume without distortion. The speakers do have a special "nano" coating on the panels to help . They also have another safe guard which is hard to explain . I once heard a pop at a volume I do not normally listen to . Luckily I had my hand on the volume controller and backed off immediately. That was one of those instances were I was testing the amps and speakers limits ( which I feel I no longer need to do )tommy2tone , I definitely can live with either . In fact I had the ncores up for sale last month on agon . At a I do not want to sell price , and I am glad they did not sell .
I'm not sure where you are getting all these assumptions from Russel , are you saying the Crowns quiescient draw is .7 amp, that doesnt sound right for a class-d amplifier nor is its RMS power rating, which is not at clipping but at .5% thd, it would be pulling 1k+ from the wall to produce its rms rated output ... Regards ..
awayne , I used the 2500 in stereo mode before the mod to the kings . It worked fine . no stress was evident .
