Newbie Help - Ncore build

Julf · « **Reply #140 on:** 7 Oct 2014, 10:21 am »

Quote from: zenpmd on 7 Oct 2014, 10:07 am

so you put a switch in the nampon line?

Yes. But even better would be to use the power supply standby mode.

zenpmd · « **Reply #141 on:** 7 Oct 2014, 10:29 am »

How do you do that?

Julf · « **Reply #142 on:** 7 Oct 2014, 10:39 am »

Quote from: zenpmd on 7 Oct 2014, 10:29 am

How do you do that?

Sorry, don't take this the wrong way, but I do have to ask if you have read the Hypex data sheets?

Julf · « **Reply #143 on:** 7 Oct 2014, 10:43 am »

Quote from: zenpmd on 7 Oct 2014, 10:29 am

How do you do that?

The data sheet for the smps600 states "Applying an external DC voltage to this input [J1:1] will put the SMPS in standby. Both main and auxiliary output voltages will drop gradually. Removing the standby voltage will result in a normal soft started start-up of the SMPS600." The DC voltage is specified as 3.3 - 12 V.

zenpmd · « **Reply #144 on:** 7 Oct 2014, 10:45 am »

Hi Julf

But to me, that doesn't explain anything as I know nothing and would have no idea how to "apply an external DC voltage"

Julf · « **Reply #145 on:** 7 Oct 2014, 11:01 am »

Quote from: zenpmd on 7 Oct 2014, 10:45 am

But to me, that doesn't explain anything as I know nothing and would have no idea how to "apply an external DC voltage"

Ah, OK. I guess there is an assumption of a certain level of knowledge for DIY electronics, but I am sure we can help you.

How were you planning to switch on/off your amps?

The issue with the power supply standby is that when it is in standby mode, there are no voltages available from the Hypex power supply. Thus the voltage to turn the power supply into standby has to come from somewhere else. I am using a separate, small and cheap linear 6 V power supply (the required power/current is minimal - you could even use a battery).

Julf · « **Reply #146 on:** 7 Oct 2014, 11:06 am »

Quote from: zenpmd on 3 Oct 2014, 08:28 am

In terms of class 2, surely there are some online resources somewhere? I just haven't been able to find them on google.

Forgot that Hypex actually has a pretty good application note.

clpetersen · « **Reply #147 on:** 7 Oct 2014, 04:47 pm »

Quote from: Julf on 7 Oct 2014, 11:01 am

Ah, OK. I guess there is an assumption of a certain level of knowledge for DIY electronics, but I am sure we can help you.

How were you planning to switch on/off your amps?

The issue with the power supply standby is that when it is in standby mode, there are no voltages available from the Hypex power supply. Thus the voltage to turn the power supply into standby has to come from somewhere else. I am using a separate, small and cheap linear 6 V power supply (the required power/current is minimal - you could even use a battery).

Contemplating a build: so far dual SMPS600's and dual NC400's. Considering also a single SMPS1200/400.

1) any comments on SMPS 1200 vs SMPS600's? Other than the cost difference, which is substantial.

2) do people here put the amp in standby or the power supply? Power supply seems preferable. From the SMPS600 data sheet, Pin 1 of J1 needs to be energized to be in standby mode -- as mentioned above, an separate supply could be used for this. This auxiliary supply in turn could be turned on using a std. 12V trigger output from a pre-amp (say) and a simple NO relay (Normally Open relay) to connect the mains to the small supply. Anyone done this?

3) Anyone use the (unregulated) voltage outputs of J1 on the PS to power on indicator LED's?

Julf · « **Reply #148 on:** 7 Oct 2014, 06:19 pm »

Quote from: clpetersen on 7 Oct 2014, 04:47 pm

Contemplating a build: so far dual SMPS600's and dual NC400's. Considering also a single SMPS1200/400.

1) any comments on SMPS 1200 vs SMPS600's? Other than the cost difference, which is substantial.

Unless you have absurdly power-hungry speakers, one shared SMPS600 should do fine for two nc400's.

Quote

2) do people here put the amp in standby or the power supply? Power supply seems preferable. From the SMPS600 data sheet, Pin 1 of J1 needs to be energized to be in standby mode -- as mentioned above, an separate supply could be used for this. This auxiliary supply in turn could be turned on using a std. 12V trigger output from a pre-amp (say) and a simple NO relay (Normally Open relay) to connect the mains to the small supply. Anyone done this?

Sort of. I have a small and cheap 3W 6 V supply that is switched on by a relay from my music player - not using 12V trigger, but output port of a raspberry pi, but same idea.

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3) Anyone use the (unregulated) voltage outputs of J1 on the PS to power on indicator LED's?

I used the aux standby power supply for LEDs.

clpetersen · « **Reply #149 on:** 7 Oct 2014, 06:51 pm »

Quote from: Julf on 7 Oct 2014, 06:19 pm

Unless you have absurdly power-hungry speakers, one shared SMPS600 should do fine for two nc400's.

Excellent, thx. You should get a consulting fee.

Quote from: Julf on 7 Oct 2014, 06:19 pm

Sort of. I have a small and cheap 3W 6 V supply that is switched on by a relay from my music player - not using 12V trigger, but output port of a raspberry pi, but same idea.

I used the aux standby power supply for LEDs.

LEDs: Isn't the aux supply off when the PS is active (out of standby mode)?

Julf · « **Reply #150 on:** 7 Oct 2014, 06:57 pm »

Quote from: clpetersen on 7 Oct 2014, 06:51 pm

Excellent, thx. You should get a consulting fee.

That would make me a consultant. Can't live with that label.

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LEDs: Isn't the aux supply off when the PS is active (out of standby mode)?

By aux supply I meant the small extra PS that drives the standby input.

zenpmd · « **Reply #151 on:** 8 Oct 2014, 04:18 am »

I wonder if my Benchmark HGC Dac2 can do this using its 12v line Julf?

"Benchmark re-invents the 12 volt trigger. The trigger connection on the DAC2 HGC can be used as an input or output or both, and is compatible with any common 12 volt trigger input or output. The trigger can be used to turn a power amplifier on or off automatically. The DAC2 will also respond to a 12 volt trigger and follow the actions of another audio component."

Julf · « **Reply #152 on:** 8 Oct 2014, 06:10 am »

Quote from: zenpmd on 8 Oct 2014, 04:18 am

I wonder if my Benchmark HGC Dac2 can do this using its 12v line Julf?

Electrically yes (I might use a resistor divider to bring down the voltage a bit just in case it happens to be a bit above 12V), but I am not sure if the Benchmark trigger output can be made to go "negative logic", producing 12V when the amp is supposed to be off (instead of on). You might need a small 12V relay switching a small extra power supply.

zenpmd · « **Reply #153 on:** 12 Oct 2014, 07:26 am »

OK I am working on this today.

Just some additional questions on the XLR part. I am going to solder together nampon and audio shield, and these are both going into pin 1. Then I am going to wire pin 1 to chassis (not relying on xlr chassis connection, I will just do direct.

Can someone explain how solder ear/lugs work please? I cannot find a youtube video on how this is done. Thanks

zenpmd · « **Reply #154 on:** 12 Oct 2014, 07:29 am »

Can someone also explain to me what that yellow cable is doing in this build?

zenpmd · « **Reply #155 on:** 12 Oct 2014, 07:47 am »

Another question! Is there anything wrong in terms of sound in using an IEC that has a built in switch on it?

Thanks

Julf · « **Reply #156 on:** 12 Oct 2014, 07:52 am »

Quote from: zenpmd on 12 Oct 2014, 07:26 am

Just some additional questions on the XLR part. I am going to solder together nampon and audio shield, and these are both going into pin 1. Then I am going to wire pin 1 to chassis (not relying on xlr chassis connection, I will just do direct.

Sounds OK.

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Can someone explain how solder ear/lugs work please? I cannot find a youtube video on how this is done. Thanks

Congratulations for finding perhaps the only thing in the world that doesn't have a youtube video for it

A solder lug is a very simple thing - it has one end with a bigger hole for a screw - either a dedicated screw or an existing mounting screw that attaches to the chassis (so the lug acts as a washer), and an "ear", usually with a smaller hole, that you can solder a lead to. All a solder lug does is provides for an easy way to connect a lead to a screw or bolt.

Julf · « **Reply #157 on:** 12 Oct 2014, 07:56 am »

Quote from: zenpmd on 12 Oct 2014, 07:29 am

Can someone also explain to me what that yellow cable is doing in this build?

Connecting mains safety earth to the chassis (using the unisolated mounting lug of the smps as a connecting point).

Julf · « **Reply #158 on:** 12 Oct 2014, 07:58 am »

Quote from: zenpmd on 12 Oct 2014, 07:47 am

Another question! Is there anything wrong in terms of sound in using an IEC that has a built in switch on it?

Absolutely nothing wrong with a switch - but don't use an IEC connector with a mains HF noise filter.

zenpmd · « **Reply #159 on:** 12 Oct 2014, 08:07 am »

OK good, making progress! That sounds like a great solution to use that uninsuated screw. I have the same on my siliconray case so I will do that rather than use a solder ear. Which in turns makes me consider that perhaps I will do the XLR bit while relying on the chassis connection pin, so I wouldn't have to go to the chassis with an ear on that either, would I? I assume I'd know if that chassis connection is a good connection because if it wasnt, because Nampon is connected to it then the amp wouldnt produce a sound?

When you said normal wire what is that? I need to buy some of it for this IEC earthing to the SMPS. Can you send me a link?

FINALLY so sorry for being so badly spoon fed here!!!!!!!!! I am so grateful for your time