Newbie Help - Ncore build

zenpmd · « **Reply #120 on:** 3 Oct 2014, 08:28 am »

I wanted class to, in order to:

1. Keep wiring simple; and
2. Better audio performance

And yes, sorry I mean audio input shield!

if I do connect XLR to chassis as well, how do you physically do this, what do you recommend one uses? (ditto for connecting IEC to chassis)

In terms of class 2, surely there are some online resources somewhere? I just haven't been able to find them on google.

Julf · « **Reply #121 on:** 3 Oct 2014, 09:01 am »

Quote from: zenpmd on 3 Oct 2014, 08:28 am

I wanted class to, in order to:

1. Keep wiring simple; and
2. Better audio performance

One more wire, from the IEC connector earth to the chassis, doesn't add much complexity. What makes you think it would affect audio performance, and in what way?

Quote

if I do connect XLR to chassis as well, how do you physically do this, what do you recommend one uses? (ditto for connecting IEC to chassis)

Just normal connector wire, kept as short as possible. I usually recommend one ground point, so preferably one solder ear attached by a screw to the chassis somewhere as close to the input XLR connector as possible, and then run the input cable shield and a short wire from the XLR pin 1 and the XLR connector chassis lug to that point too.

Quote

In terms of class 2, surely there are some online resources somewhere? I just haven't been able to find them on google.

Unfortunately the guides I have come across are all for-pay, and not available for free, but here is some useful information. When googling, use "class II" (not 2) and "double insulation".

zenpmd · « **Reply #122 on:** 3 Oct 2014, 11:39 am »

I just thought class 2 is best and I am trying to do what I am told as I don't understand any of it. If not, I am happy to do IEC to chassis. But what is a solder ear? I googled it and didn't come up with anything. What, also, is normal connecter wire?

So in other words you connect everything to that solder ear, and then, effectively the solder ear back to pin 1? Is there a photo anywhere? Thanks

Julf · « **Reply #123 on:** 3 Oct 2014, 12:15 pm »

Quote from: zenpmd on 3 Oct 2014, 11:39 am

I just thought class 2 is best and I am trying to do what I am told as I don't understand any of it.

Class II (not 2) is only related to electrical safety.

Quote

If not, I am happy to do IEC to chassis. But what is a solder ear? I googled it and didn't come up with anything. What, also, is normal connecter wire?

So in other words you connect everything to that solder ear, and then, effectively the solder ear back to pin 1? Is there a photo anywhere? Thanks

I guess they are officially called "solder lugs". So just a way to connect a lead to a screw on the chassis.

Still suggest you follow the picture in the Hypex data sheet, but just add the connection from the IEC ground pin to the chassis.

zenpmd · « **Reply #124 on:** 3 Oct 2014, 02:12 pm »

So I assume I need to drill a new hole in the chassis. Only as I don't have a drill at the moment.

Understood about your point on class 2, but if that is the case, I simply do not understand why Hypex recommend it.

Speedskater · « **Reply #125 on:** 3 Oct 2014, 02:19 pm »

The wire from XLR pin1 to the chassis should not be much longer than 1cm or 1/2 inch.

Julf · « **Reply #126 on:** 3 Oct 2014, 07:17 pm »

Quote from: zenpmd on 3 Oct 2014, 02:12 pm

So I assume I need to drill a new hole in the chassis. Only as I don't have a drill at the moment.

Can you use any of the existing chassis screws?

Quote

Understood about your point on class 2, but if that is the case, I simply do not understand why Hypex recommend it.

Where does Hypex actually recommend it?

Julf · « **Reply #127 on:** 3 Oct 2014, 07:17 pm »

Quote from: Speedskater on 3 Oct 2014, 02:19 pm

The wire from XLR pin1 to the chassis should not be much longer than 1cm or 1/2 inch.

Yes, as short as possible.

Old_School · « **Reply #128 on:** 3 Oct 2014, 10:48 pm »

In my build I connected the NAMPON and mains earth at the place where the conductive standoff is on the power supply. I connected the XLR earths at the screw that fixes the XLR. No hum or anything that would indicate a performance reduction to me. I have the added security blanket of a mains earth to the chassis as well.

Speedskater · « **Reply #129 on:** 4 Oct 2014, 12:16 pm »

I also use the XLR mounting screen for the pin1 connection. Using a very small 'O' ring crimp on connector. Making sure that the chassis is free of paint or anodizing under the screw head.

zenpmd · « **Reply #130 on:** 6 Oct 2014, 05:50 am »

Is there a close up photo anywhere of the XLR wiring anyone knows of? Still hard to understand exactly the way to wire it. THanks

Julf · « **Reply #131 on:** 6 Oct 2014, 06:20 am »

Quote from: zenpmd on 6 Oct 2014, 05:50 am

Is there a close up photo anywhere of the XLR wiring anyone knows of? Still hard to understand exactly the way to wire it. THanks

It is actually harder to see from photos than from the very clear diagram Hypex provided:

The only modifications to that diagram would be:

Connection from earth pin of IEC power connector to chassis ground
Connection form nAMPON to signal ground/audio input cable sheath
Also connecting the XLR connector chassis lug to pin 1 of the XLR (or to the chassis)

zenpmd · « **Reply #132 on:** 6 Oct 2014, 06:27 am »

So shall I solder nampon and sheild together as a wire then wire that straight to chassis? Its exactly how and where I join

1. nampon
2. audio sheild
3.xlr pin 1

together that is confusing me.

Julf · « **Reply #133 on:** 6 Oct 2014, 07:28 am »

Quote from: zenpmd on 6 Oct 2014, 06:27 am

So shall I solder nampon and sheild together as a wire then wire that straight to chassis? Its exactly how and where I join

1. nampon
2. audio sheild
3.xlr pin 1

together that is confusing me.

Where you connect nampon to signal ground doesn't really matter - usually it is best to keep wires as short as possible. If you are not using nampon to put the amps in standby, i suggest you connect nampon to ground either at the same point where you connect the shield to chassis, or at the XLR connector. Audio shield goes to your chassis ground point, preferably as close to the XLR connector as possible - if you are sure you have a good connection between the XLR connector chassis and your main chassis, the XLR chassis connection pin might be good for this. XLR pin 1 goes to the chassis ground point (either solder lug attached to chassis, or the XLR connector chassis) with a short lead.

zenpmd · « **Reply #134 on:** 7 Oct 2014, 09:42 am »

OK, thanks. I will upload a diagram of EXACTLY what I will wire shortly.

As a side note, out of interest I asked Hypex about the power consumption figures and they responded:

1. NC400 powered but in standby: 9,5 W
2. NC400 powered and running: 13 W
3. If mains is switched off : 0 W
4. SMPS in standby: <0,5 W

I asked what standby was and they replied that those figures are if you are using the standby pin. Any idea what that is?

Julf · « **Reply #135 on:** 7 Oct 2014, 10:01 am »

Quote from: zenpmd on 7 Oct 2014, 09:42 am

I asked what standby was and they replied that those figures are if you are using the standby pin. Any idea what that is?

For the nc400, it is with nAMPON active. For the smps600 there is a separate standby input.

zenpmd · « **Reply #136 on:** 7 Oct 2014, 10:02 am »

How do you turn nampon on and off?

Julf · « **Reply #137 on:** 7 Oct 2014, 10:05 am »

Quote from: zenpmd on 7 Oct 2014, 09:42 am

1. NC400 powered but in standby: 9,5 W

What the data sheet says is "If your power supply includes a gate drive supply, as the SMPS600 does, idle dissipation is around 4.5 W. When no drive supply is available, another 5W are being dissipatd by the on-board regulator.". So the 9.5W is with a non-Hypex power supply.

Julf · « **Reply #138 on:** 7 Oct 2014, 10:06 am »

Quote from: zenpmd on 7 Oct 2014, 10:02 am

How do you turn nampon on and off?

Disconnect it from ground to turn amp off, connect it back to turn amp on.

zenpmd · « **Reply #139 on:** 7 Oct 2014, 10:07 am »

so you put a switch in the nampon line?