[eclein]

I'm sprung from the Hospital, my stereo sounds so good right now!!!!
No heart attack, no clogged arteries, my electrolytes were out of wack but who didn't know that!!!

So here is my plan, chill out, pilot my recliner, listen to all the CD's I bought from Amazon while in the hospital. I did pick up some of the AKG headphones that were posted here a few days back in "Sweet Deals" and they sound pretty darn good, they will be my new travel pair.

Here is the integrated I'm considering thinking about mulling over and contemplating...choice one if Ian thinks it will be enough power:
http://grantfidelity.com/site/shuguang_treasure_classic_S300MK

if thats not enough power then choice two:
http://grantfidelity.com/site/A-348+EL34+Tube+Amplifier

By the time I save up the cash for either one they will probably be old hat so I'm flexible but this is where I'm gonna start.
Thanks guys for all your support and input!!!!

[raindance]

Of course we are all assuming that music presents a constant dB level, which it doesn't and you need to allow for peaks (dynamic range - something a lot of modern recordings don't have any more). Contrary to what anyone says, tube amps that have output transformers do not and cannot handle transients better than a well designed SS amp. In addition, tubes are great at swinging volts but not great at delivering current into a load, which is why a benign impedance curve is important. Also, a tube amp that is say half the power of an SS amp will have half as much power in reserve for peaks BUT it will clip in a far "nicer" fashion and seem to be handling just fine.

I like tube amps, but they cannot bend the laws of physics. Of course manufacturers would like you to believe they can.

[raindance]

@eclein - If you're buying one of those amps you linked to, get yourself a mains voltage regulator from APC that can output 110V. BELIEVE ME.

[eclein]

Cool raindance, thats a device that keeps the current runnning to the amps at a constant voltage, correct???...thanks!!
I just took spl readings at the volume I usually listen at and the range is between 78-82db, so its not real loud here, remember for me in the good ole days if my ears weren't ringing when we exited the stage it was a bad show...LOL!!!!

[srb]

I just took spl readings at the volume I usually listen at and the range is between 78-82db, so its not real loud here, remember for me in the good ole days if my ears weren't ringing when we exited the stage it was a bad show...LOL!!!!

Yeah, but in those days I recall you also had passed out dudes napping in your open bass drum!
 
Steve

[raindance]

This is what I use: APC Line-R 1200VA Automatic voltage regulator Set the output switch to 110V and it works great but shows that you are overvoltage. It makes the tubes last a lot longer, run cooler and doesn't do much harm to the sound. This applies to Chinese amps that are UNMODIFIED and designed for 110V input. If the amp says 115V or 117V, then set the output to 120V and you are OK.

[davidrs]

@eclein - If you're buying one of those amps you linked to, get yourself a mains voltage regulator from APC that can output 110V. BELIEVE ME.

Raindance, are you suggesting that for the specific amps Eclein listed, or is it a general recommendation for tubed amps? And your reasons for making the suggestion?

I see that you've posted part of the answer, already (while I was typing).

[raindance]

@davidrs: Did the answer help?

[davidrs]

The answer seemed directed at Chinese built amps. Is that the focus, or does it apply more broadly?

[eclein]

Steve...one of the nurses was asking me about my playing and we or I went into storyteller mode and that was one of them!!
If we ever meet I'll tell you about playing in Atlantic City, not in a casino, at a Pagan Bikers Jail release party which lasted 3 days..wildest 3 days I can still actually remember.
 Ed
 

[eclein]

Raindance- why do you set it a bit higher than the rating...you mention if the amp is spec'd at 115V or 117V to set it at 120V....why???
 I'm curious...

[raindance]

The answer seemed directed at Chinese built amps. Is that the focus, or does it apply more broadly?

This is directed at Chinese amps - those built for the Chinese market are usually designed for 220V @50Hz. They use series primary windings for 220V and they parallel these windings for 110V. In the USA we have 120V (nominally) @60Hz. While this seems a lowish percentage difference, only 10V, it affects heater voltages and unregulated HT supplies to a larger degree than you might expect because the transformers are slightly more efficient at 60Hz. I have measured heater voltages on some Chinese products running on 125V here in NC as high as 7.8V and HT voltages equal to the rating of the smoothing caps. This is a recipe for short tube life and eventual catastrophic failure.

Other countries, such as the UK, use 240V 50Hz mains. Half of this is 120V, which would be fine... Australia is 230V, OK, but not as great (all assuming that they can be rewired for use here).

[raindance]

Raindance- why do you set it a bit higher than the rating...you mention if the amp is spec'd at 115V or 117V to set it at 120V....why???
 I'm curious...

Simple answer: It can only output 110V or 120V from a 120V nominal supply... No other switch settings exist. But this is your least expensive option. A friend of mine uses a custom made isolation transformer with selectable output taps, but this is quite an expensive option.

[davidrs]

This is directed at Chinese amps - those built for the Chinese market are usually designed for 220V @50Hz.

Other countries, such as the UK, use 240V 50Hz mains. Half of this is 120V, which would be fine... Australia is 230V, OK, but not as great (all assuming that they can be rewired for use here).

Raindance,

Thanks. Very helpful.

I have an Austrian built amp, so wanted to be sure I have my bases covered.

[raindance]

Raindance,

Thanks. Very helpful.

I have an Austrian built amp, so wanted to be sure I have my bases covered.

Austria is 230V, so if the amp is wired as I stated, it'll be 115V in US-guise (unless it has a 120V transformer).

[raindance]

One more point: Chinese amps made for EXPORT have 115V or 120V primaries. If the label on the power inlet says 110V it is NOT an export model no matter what the seller tells you.

[Ericus Rex]

I just took spl readings at the volume I usually listen at and the range is between 78-82db

So when you consider this reading, your speaker's efficiency, your distance from the speakers and the +3 db from a second speaker your using, on average, far less than 1 watt of power (again, peaks and transients eat up more, this is just an average); probably somewhere closer to 1/2 watt.  Hard to believe, isn't it!?!?  And if you listen to rock music, which is totally compressed with little dynamic change, how large are the peaks anyway?  Not to mention the compressed dynamic range of redbook CDs to begin with....

Check out the thread titled "My tiny twelves..." in the Music Reference circle.  Jeff compares his MR 12 watt/channel monoblocks to much higher powered amps using 89 db speakers.  Good read that throws a proverbial monkey wrench into the 'more watts is better' juggernaut.

[raindance]

So go buy a use Jolida 102b and try it with the JBL's. It is one of the nicest sounding cheaper amps out there. If you love it, great, if you hate it it'll sell easy. I completely forgot to mention EL84's in my earlier pontifications! It is a sweet little amp and cheap to run too. No voltage regulator needed, plug 'n play. 

[Wind Chaser]

The 300b with premium tubes would leave the Jolida in the dust. 

[Wind Chaser]

Even without premium tubes it would leave the Jolida in the dust.