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what about mechanical noise? I have dayton HF subs and they have quite a bit of noise when cone starts to visibly move.
David, it's easy to check. just play loud pink noise with woofer(free air), low passed at low frequency ~100hz and down. and you will hear noises that come from its suspension, unless of course you have very very good woofer or even better, try single 20 hz tone, you'll hear suspension noise only.
In my experience, open baffle bass drivers need high passed third order or higher above FS. If you don't you'll really be compromising the sound.
I also recommend testing for mechanical noise with test tones, but i usually use tones below 20Hz so the high volume levels aren't as bothersome.Quote from: Magnetar on 16 Oct 2008, 07:16 pmIn my experience, open baffle bass drivers need high passed third order or higher above FS. If you don't you'll really be compromising the sound. The IB15s work quite well with a second order high pass at FS (16Hz). What would compromise the sound besides excursion on the low end?
Two things - with dynamic drivers the more movement or excursion the higher the distortion - it muddles up the upper bass/midrange
I suppose a 2nd order would work with the right woofer.
trying to produce the bottom octave in an average size room with an open baffle is almost impossible (pressure build up, dipole cancellation, low efficiency, ect...) and is better left to a subwoofer that has some type of loading. A bass horn works good for me - low excursion, high efficiency, low distortion- open baffle bass/midbass can be so clean I feel it's best to use it where it's practical and possible with low compromise. This normally means an octave (maybe a little less) above FS and up rather than forcing it to do something it really isn't best at
MJK, I think your SPL thiele/small measurements on the Alpha and Goldwood are off in the pdf above.
What are the H baffle specs - depth is?
Not sure which measurements you are referring to, can you tell me what you think is off?