MOX in parallell with a 1 mH inductor for the B200

Shogun · « **Reply #160 on:** 6 Feb 2007, 09:19 pm »

Hi guys,

I would like to try a 6,8mH and 6,8 Ohms from Parts Connexion.

Is there a difference between a 12 AWG (31$) and a 14 AWG (18$) beside the price?

With these filters, what sensivity should I expect?

scorpion · « **Reply #161 on:** 7 Feb 2007, 08:58 pm »

Shogun,

I would go for the components markC bought, see page 9 in the thread, he used top quality parts and the speaker deserves it. I take it you mean 0.68 mH. You would land about 91-92 dB average sensitivity I estimate. Good luck !

/Erling

dewar · « **Reply #162 on:** 16 Feb 2007, 02:54 pm »

Hi all.

I'm very keen to try a bsc filter on my B200, but I have never ordered such parts before(infact I dont even know what an inductor is)

I was wondering if someone might be able to give me the Partsconnection SKU Code numbers for a 1mH/10 ohm circuit. I've heard here that the Alphacores and Mills are good? Are there any other parameters that are important e.g AWG?

Many thanks

Bevan

markC · « **Reply #163 on:** 17 Feb 2007, 03:04 pm »

sku's for alphacores and mills:

ACORE-57201 is for a 12 ga. 1 mH inductor...$34.73 ea.
ACORE-57191 is for a 14 ga. 1 mH inductor...$21.12 ea.

MILLS-62757 is for a 10 ohm 12W resistor...$3.50

You probably won't hear a difference between a 12 ga. and 14 ga. inductor, but if your a purist go for the 12 ga. if the added cost is not a concern.

JANDG · « **Reply #164 on:** 17 Feb 2007, 05:16 pm »

After running the B200 on 24x36" baffle with Vifa M26wr-09-08's ran by BASH plates @ 150 on same baffle, PLLXO of single Vitamin Q of .022 for 80Hz 1st before 300B PP amp, then I ran the B200 clean after that, a g2 ribbon mounted with flanges almost touching w/ a .22 auricap 1st for percieved "air only" it worked & like it, but.........50 playing hrs ago, I tried something a little differant. I changed the G2 ribbon to 2uf for 10k 1st & added a .22mH Janzen foil air coil to the B200 for 4250hz which I am sure is not accurate math on but anyway...& kept the PLLXO .022uf Vitamin Q in play, results are stunning...The B200 tiltled responce is gone,, with the ribbon not showing itself & retaining most of the EFF.. of driver. Doesn't take the life out of it & is still a holographic machine.. even better at this than before..better stage, imaging, with the FR attributes still retained..No resistors bieng used .....except for the resistance of the air coil alone...The .022 PLLXO is important to use ...cleans the mids & upper range up...bass is even cleaner..No hint of any padding needed on G2 ribbon.. thought this would be worth mentioning.. I have done all kinds of B200 testing, without EQ or any active stuff from 150 up... This is done by ear only & can only say what I hear...If you got ribbons of 96eff, try it as I have done & see for yourself..

markC · « **Reply #165 on:** 17 Feb 2007, 06:52 pm »

I don't have ribbons, but I do have domes. Visaton domes. According to the spl graph, they are about 92db. above 9k.
I've got a bsc with a 2 uf cap across it, a zobel and a notch filter on the B200. The tweeter has a third order filter set around 19k. It's getting very close to what I'm looking, (listening), for.
You may not think that the tweeter adds much of anything that high up, but disconnect it and there's a definite difference that's easily noticed.
The 90db. (average), tweeter works because the bsc knocks down the B200 to around 91 or 92 db. Without the bsc one would require a higher spl tweet which is mostly available as a ribbon.
The never ending quest continues...

JANDG · « **Reply #166 on:** 17 Feb 2007, 07:29 pm »

Yep, I believe you.. When I ran the .22uf cap on ribbon, which is beyond believable way out there , all I had to do to prove to me the air added wasn't in my head was detach the test clip.. did it many, many times, same results each time.. I like my new XO combination better, but for people that like the B200 to run out, the single .22uf ribbon gig does work somehow...I think the way inaccurate on-line claculators say 90K for .22uf...?!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!, can't be correct....... also my hearing is a couple months from 40.

Rafal · « **Reply #167 on:** 27 Feb 2007, 09:11 pm »

Hi Everybody,

I'm currently using the 0.68mH||6.8 ohm filter but would like to replace it with something that I can use between the amp and preamp. hopefully I will need smaller (and less expensive ) components and I won't reduce the speaker efficiency (I ultimately would like to play with flea power tube amps)

Can you suggest what I should use or can you point me to the information on this subject?

Thanks,

Rafal

scorpion · « **Reply #168 on:** 1 Mar 2007, 11:27 am »

Rafal,

Planet 10 had a link for a passive BSC-circuit in the Gravity thread:

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=19253.1230

Also have a look at the Edge-program here:

http://www.tolvan.com/edge/

/Erling

mcgsxr · « **Reply #169 on:** 1 Mar 2007, 12:53 pm »

I would like to thank MarkC for graciously lending me the components to build this filter.

I would like to apologize for taking 3 weeks to actually find the time to cobble it together with alligator clips.

I would like to say, wow, from the first note, the increased smoothness is fantastic, and the edge (formerly believed to be more treble) has been removed.

I will also add, that it is likely to take me much closer to exploring the addition of a tweeter to the mix, now that the mids are so nice, and the bass is handled OK too.

Crap, now I have to find room in the budget for a digital Xover/EQ!

Rafal · « **Reply #170 on:** 1 Mar 2007, 01:45 pm »

Quote from: scorpion on 1 Mar 2007, 11:27 am

Rafal,

Planet 10 had a link for a passive BSC-circuit in the Gravity thread:

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=19253.1230

Also have a look at the Edge-program here:

http://www.tolvan.com/edge/

/Erling

Thanks Scorpion very much for pointing me in the right direction. I have just put in an attenuator in my Gainclone and I'll play around with the passive circuit. I think that maybe I should actually get some means of measuring my freq response. Right now I'm doing everything based on my ears.

I'll let you know what I find.

Cheers,

Rafal

dewar · « **Reply #171 on:** 6 Mar 2007, 09:21 am »

Help!

Just got my inductors and resistors form GR Research and am already stuck,

with the inductor, does the signal input on the inside or outside of the coil?

Cant wait to get them going, thanks for any help,

Bevan

Rudolf · « **Reply #172 on:** 6 Mar 2007, 11:09 am »

Quote from: dewar on 6 Mar 2007, 09:21 am

with the inductor, does the signal input on the inside or outside of the coil?

Like resistors, inductors are perfectly symmetrical: Inside is same as outside. So use them any way that´s convenient.
If you happen to mount two coils next to one another: their coil axis should not be parallel, but under a 90° angle to avoid mutual influence.

dewar · « **Reply #173 on:** 7 Mar 2007, 03:27 am »

cheers for that. i'll start on them now

while i'm here could i ask anyone a basic soldering question, i'm wondering if its good to wrap the leads of the inductor around the speaker cable ends and then put some solder on to secure it, or is there a special way method to doing it? do the both ends have to be in solid contact with each other as it seems to me not such a good idea to have the signal travel through the 60/40 solder, if you know what i mean.

thanks

bevan

Russell Dawkins · « **Reply #174 on:** 7 Mar 2007, 03:48 am »

In a typical situation, the inductor wire is a single enamelled wire of a heavy gauge, like 14 or 16, and quite stiff. The speaker wire most likely multi-strand and much more flexible. If this is the case, you scrape off about 1/2" of the enamel, exposing the shiny copper. You then strip maybe 3/4 " of insulation from the speaker wire. I would use a length of heat shrink tubing longer than the soldered section and slide it up close to the speaker to keep it cool while you solder. Then wrap the end of the speaker wire around the inductor wire and solder the joint. Do this by heating the wires first then apply resin-core solder to the hot iron tip so that it flows over the joint. You should practice on something else first, like a junk circuit board.

Slide the heat shrink down over the solder and apply heat from a heat gun or maybe a hot hair dryer or lighter to it. It will shrink around the joint, insulating it. If this sounds too alien, use some electricians tape and wrap the joint.

dewar · « **Reply #175 on:** 7 Mar 2007, 04:04 am »

Thanks Russell, good to have help.

Is resin core solder different from 60/40? If I dont have the right stuff now I'll hold off on the solder till I got it.

Cheers

Bevan

Russell Dawkins · « **Reply #176 on:** 7 Mar 2007, 05:52 am »

Bevan, see here:

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=35359.0

dewar · « **Reply #177 on:** 7 Mar 2007, 09:19 am »

Thanks Russell, very informative.

B.

gilbodavid · « **Reply #178 on:** 12 Mar 2007, 08:52 pm »

have many people tried the phase plug option, which is supposed to tame the harshness, and if so, is there any loss in doing so, and what if combined with the inductor, resister thing? I've just taken my b200's out of their large ob, and put them in a 9" wide, 3.5' high ob just so i dont have two huge ugly panels in my living room. will wire it up after posting this, to replace my esl57's. this thread i hope will be the answer for my b200's, whose harsh upper regions i have not been able to live with til now. thanks

gilbodavid · « **Reply #179 on:** 12 Mar 2007, 10:49 pm »

ok, so now i've got my two ugly panels back. a word to anyone thinking of copying what i just did - DONT, PLEASE DONT - my god it was awful. now i need phase plugs and/or the resistoinductor.... but which?