The Bully Build Begins

NIGHTFALL1970 · « **Reply #40 on:** 28 Mar 2025, 04:13 pm »

I don’t have any no-rez on the bottom of mine. I’ll load a photo when I am home.

robwm · « **Reply #41 on:** 28 Mar 2025, 04:17 pm »

I don't think I can put much no-rez on the bottom, but I'll do what I can. Maybe just a 1" strip down the sides and back. I'm not sure if no-rez in the front is too close to the subwoofer. Hobbs recommended keeping the no-rez 2" away from the MTM drivers. Not sure if that applies to the subwoofer as well.

Hobbsmeerkat · « **Reply #42 on:** 28 Mar 2025, 06:48 pm »

Quote from: robwm on 28 Mar 2025, 04:17 pm

I don't think I can put much no-rez on the bottom, but I'll do what I can. Maybe just a 1" strip down the sides and back. I'm not sure if no-rez in the front is too close to the subwoofer. Hobbs recommended keeping the no-rez 2" away from the MTM drivers. Not sure if that applies to the subwoofer as well.

No issues with the subwoofer, it's large enough to not be a problem.

robwm · « **Reply #43 on:** 28 Mar 2025, 07:05 pm »

Looks like I'm cutting no-rez this weekend. I was able to borrow a small table saw, and I bought a 60-tooth blade.

NIGHTFALL1970 · « **Reply #44 on:** 28 Mar 2025, 08:09 pm »

Photo added.

robwm · « **Reply #45 on:** 28 Mar 2025, 08:19 pm »

I don't see no-rez on the front baffle either. Did you run out of material? Maybe I'm looking at the back panel?

I like your crossover board. It's a lot more compact.

NIGHTFALL1970 · « **Reply #46 on:** 28 Mar 2025, 08:20 pm »

Rob,
Are you missing the tiny red bypass cap on the Sonicap on the right side?

I didn’t build these. They were built by Killian at Dayton Woodworking. Joe Cerda did the crossover work.

robwm · « **Reply #47 on:** 28 Mar 2025, 08:22 pm »

All the parts are there, but some are not in view. I wasn't all that careful to orient everything the same way.

NIGHTFALL1970 · « **Reply #48 on:** 28 Mar 2025, 08:33 pm »

I think your board is a lot easier to work on.

Also, I edited my previous posts.

robwm · « **Reply #49 on:** 31 Mar 2025, 02:37 pm »

I didn't get as much done as I hoped for this weekend. I finished one crossover completely, but I screwed up the measurements for the white tweeter circuit for the other crossover. I need another piece of white wire to finish that crossover. FYI - 9"x9" is the largest you can cut the bully crossover mounting board. It's not going to fit if it's any larger.

I cut most of the insulation, but I managed to cut one piece of no-rez the wrong direction. Now I'm feeling like I might need more no-rez, not sure though. None of the no-rez is secured at the moment while I get it all cut out. Based upon the amount of no-rez that I have, I'm thinking that the front baffle doesn't get any no-rez.

I also glued the second baffle to the front baffle of the left speaker.

FYI - I had to call in to get 10' of white solid core wire since I cut it too short. I also ordered another sheet of No-Rez after seeing a picture of a Brute. I don't think I have enough to fill my cabinet the same way.

Fat Dots get delivered today.

NIGHTFALL1970 · « **Reply #50 on:** 31 Mar 2025, 02:44 pm »

Awesome job!

goggle1824 · « **Reply #51 on:** 7 Apr 2025, 12:21 pm »

Agreed, looking very nice!

robwm · « **Reply #52 on:** 7 Apr 2025, 01:20 pm »

I painted the cutouts for the drivers over the weekend. I used the box the flatpacks came in to use as a spray-painting booth. I still need more no-rez to finish cutting insulation. I have another sheet coming today but I'm skeptical that it will be enough to finish that task. I'm doing busy work until I can cut the rest of the insulation.

NIGHTFALL1970 · « **Reply #53 on:** 8 Apr 2025, 03:08 am »

Looks great!👍

robwm · « **Reply #54 on:** 14 Apr 2025, 03:53 pm »

This weekend, I installed some no-rez behind the MTM box and glued on the back panel on the right speaker. I didn't try a dry fit because the back is so tight, I was afraid I might break it to get it back off. So, I went for it and put the back into place with glue. Unfortunately, the back did not mount flush. It was sticking out about 1/16" - 3/32" at the top behind the MTM box.

There was no possible way to safely remove the back at this point with glue involved. I want to veneer the box (except for the front) so the uneven mounting of the back panel isn't going to work. I bought a belt sander and went to town on it. The overlap is gone but now the surface is no longer level. It isn't wavy by much, but it might be bad enough to cause bubbles in the veneer, I'm not sure.

From my research, it sounds like I need to use wood filler or bondo to float the entire back and then sand it back to level. I believe I need to cover the entire back with some type of filler and use an 18" drywall knife to spread whatever filler I use evenly from edge to edge. I'm pretty sure the middle is lower than the edges. I think it would be a really bad idea to continue with a belt sander at this point.

Any suggestions to get this surface properly prepped for veneer?
How can I prevent this from happening to the other speaker? Should I sand the other back panel until I can dry fit the piece properly?

I'm starting to get pretty frustrated with this. I almost feel like I should have paid to have these finished after this experience. It's not going all that well all of a sudden.

Thank you,

Rob

nlitworld · « **Reply #55 on:** 14 Apr 2025, 06:10 pm »

If youre talking using filler to really sand and level each panel, I'll give you a few recommendations, all easily available from a local auto paint store. U-Pol Dolphin Glaze is a good 2part glazing putty (think really thin bondo) that you can essentially skim coat the whole side. It's mixed at 2% by weight so if you have a little kitchen gram scale this makes it super easy. Otherwise it's a golf ball size of putty to a pea size of hardener. Mix it quickly with a spreader and apply in thin coats. Then get a large sanding block like a Durablock AF4403 to use full 2.75x16.5" sandpaper strips to really smooth out large flat areas. Do your sanding using the block basically sideways not in a long straight line. That will keep you sanding super smooth and only removing the high spots. For sandpaper grits, you're really only talking 180 and 320 grit to get everything super smooth. NO 120 or 80 grits or you'll be in trouble. If you REALLY want to nitpick high/low spots, also grab an aerosol can of guide coat like SEM 38203 so you can spritz that on and it will point out any high and low spots as you sand down.

Also in sanding mdf and fillers, please be wearing a respirator. That stuff is nasty and you don't want to be breathing it.

Don't give up hope now. You're in the 7th inning stretch and really close to seeing the rewarding results.

-Lloyd

robwm · « **Reply #56 on:** 14 Apr 2025, 06:15 pm »

It looks like I managed to sand the middle to 3/16" lower than the edges. I used 80 grit on my belt sander to cause this damage to myself.

nlitworld · « **Reply #57 on:** 14 Apr 2025, 06:23 pm »

Lol, yeah 80 on a belt sander is rough. Like woah. 3/16 is fine to pull it back flush, but usually want 2 thin applications of glazing putty to bring you back. I did the same on my nx-studios where one sixe is maybe 1/16 down in the center when I was all said and done. You won't REALLY be able to see it, but if you're trying to be perfect and learning the right way to do new skills, it's worth the wffort to fix.

robwm · « **Reply #58 on:** 14 Apr 2025, 06:24 pm »

What's the best way for a beginner to recover this? I messed this up so bad

nlitworld · « **Reply #59 on:** 14 Apr 2025, 06:26 pm »

Nah you're fine. Follow the instructions for the glazing putty, but do two separate spreads. Go easy and measure progress along the way. All good.