Hello HT cOz and welcome to AudioCircle Ivica who goes by Bassivus.
As a builder of several translam projects and follower of many more I have a bit of advice I want to share while the design remains in CAD before the sawdust flies and glue is uncapped.
Allow some mechanism for compliance between the baffle (grey in your renders) and speaker body (red in render above). As the baffle and speaker body undergo changes in temperature and humidity the wood or MDF will grow and contract. I have seen translams fail when the baffle moves in the up/down direction and when solidly glued to the laminated body pull open the layers causing cracks. Like this sad case http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php?42594-My-first-project-is-a-4-way-speaker.
From page 12 of the above linked thread:
It is like the furniture making issue of attaching a table top or cabinet top to its legs or base. Its wood and they are going to move, at different rates. For furniture slotted screw clamps are favored. For a speaker like this I would use a bolt on baffle or glue it on with an adhesive that retains some flexibility like RTV.
When the entire speaker is translam like my FA120A build seen below this is not an issue. The trade off is the high stress time when machining the driver and other holes when one slip writes off the entire box!
Norman thanks for stopping by and sharing your experience. It's valuable to have real world advice on this because it is basically an expensive time consuming experiment. However, I've looked at Translam builds for years in admiration and always wanted to give one a go.
Its like you read our minds... Bassivus and I spent a lot of last night discussing this very post and coming up with a mitigation strategy. So far we are thinking the following:
1). Lots of glue and not excessive force while clamping
2). Seal cabinet inside and out with Bitumen Paint or Glue
3). We changed to 360 style cutouts which will consume more wood but should also be stronger
4). We are floating the front baffle with 3 inside screws and 3 outside screws (six total per side)
We are still thinking about a thin layer of Sorbathane to further isolate the baffle and allow movement. Not sure yet on this. I need to check out RTV glue. I think we might make the baffle removable. You can see some of the change in thinking in these renderings.
Now 360 parts instead of C style
Speaker view without floating baffle attached
If you guys have any hints or tips, we are all ears. As you say changes in the digital realm are quick and easy, once the sawdust if flying changes become painful.