CD-PRO2M Builder's questions and comments

heathman · « **Reply #160 on:** 23 Mar 2005, 03:41 pm »

Hi Group I have experienced some unexpected auto repair bills and am so going to sell my newly completed CD-PRO2 kit in Champagne color. It has the output transformer and cap upgrades, is neatly put together and not even broken in yet. It also has the new BB opamps upgrade, ferrite bead, and drive ground strap. Please email for more info and pics. I am asking $875 + postage. A great chance to get a brand new upgraded kit without having to do all the assembly work!
thanks,
Heathman@care2.com

Gordy · « **Reply #161 on:** 23 Mar 2005, 04:02 pm »

Heathman... That's a great offer, but don't do it! Sell your wife, sell a sister, sell your dog, no, forget the dog, but don't sell your equipment!!! I can relate though... Not 4 days after asking Josh to build a CDPro for me I was t-boned on a 5 min. trip to the post office. Thankfully their insurance covered, but it was an ugly two week scramble.

Best of luck!

westiebj · « **Reply #162 on:** 28 Mar 2005, 09:25 am »

Hi all

Has anybody noticed the transformers buzzing/humming on their player ?

I have isolated mine with rubber washers above and below but am noticing a quite pronounced noise.

I know this can be due to the quality of mains, but none of my current or previous equipment have this problem. I'm also using a PS Audio ultimate-outlet which should help with the mains noise.

Any suggestions ?

Cheers

ken_diyzone.net · « **Reply #163 on:** 28 Mar 2005, 02:57 pm »

Hi westiebj,

Hum.. (Sorry for the pun), have not really heard of this issue before. Is it just one, or all three of them? I can send you another one for testing. Please let me know.

Thanks
Ken

tianguis · « **Reply #164 on:** 28 Mar 2005, 05:58 pm »

westiebj:
Mine are dead quiet and I didn't use any isolation washers. However, I've had the problem with other toroids in other equipment. I've always been able to cure the problem by torqueing the mounting bolt a bit more.

Regards,
Larry Welsh

westiebj · « **Reply #165 on:** 28 Mar 2005, 07:24 pm »

Hi guys

Thanks for the replies. I haven't been able to examine which ones yet but it seems to be coming from both sides of the unit.

When I get a chance I will try to tighten them down a bit, and I will let you know if this helps

Cheers

NoobyBaboo · « **Reply #166 on:** 29 Mar 2005, 11:54 pm »

Have you tried running it without the PS Audio thing?

heathman · « **Reply #167 on:** 4 Apr 2005, 02:24 pm »

Hi group: No interest in this great kit at $875 so I'll sell it for $825 delivered ConUs or make offer! See pics on Audiogon.
heathman@care2.com

rwalton · « **Reply #168 on:** 4 Apr 2005, 07:03 pm »

Hi All,

I have a question about the disc clamp that is optional with this kit, but here is some background so you understand why I have the question.

I did not know about this kit when I purchased my CDPro2M kit from Nico Thevissen in the Netherlands (http://www.daisy-laser.nl/homeoptics/index.html). The magnetic disc clamp supplied by Nico, does not "self-center" when put in place. As a result, Nico includes a small plastic "nipple" that must be glued to the top of the drive spindle. Once that is done, it functions to center the magnetic clamp.

I really do not want to glue anything to the spindle unless I absolutely have to. I would like to know if the optional disc clamp offered with this kit takes care of both the clamping and centering functions? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Regards,

Rick

NoobyBaboo · « **Reply #169 on:** 5 Apr 2005, 12:18 am »

I have issues with the upgrade clamp. When I first put in on, it and the CD spun absolutely centered (picture enthusiastic fist pumping). But subsequently, I encountered cases where the CD would be on the thin side, and the drive would spin beneath it, and the CD would rattle about. So I did the suggested fix using one layer of precisely cut black vinyl electricians tape over the clamp magnet. Fewer slipping CD's, and the clamp was now often not centered. Put another layer on. No slipping CD's, but the clamp is never centered. I do not think it hurts anything though. It's just not the ideal aesthetic effect.

Correcting this appears to be actually not a simple problem; what getting all the interference surfaces and concentricity correct for the population of variant thickness CD"s. I am ruminating about a fix, and will postanote if I figure something out.

My current thought is to apply the vinyl tape shim to the drive magnet ring. But this is a somewhat dicey proposition and trial and error will be needed.

rwalton · « **Reply #170 on:** 5 Apr 2005, 01:15 am »

Thanks for the reply. I don't mind spending the $ for the clamp if it works flawlessly. Since your experience has been less than stellar, I think I'll put some thought into making one myself. I have access to a machine shop at work. It may require a couple of prototypes, but it should be doable, after careful caliper measurements of the spindle (and some CDs).

Has anyone else had issues with the clamp? Is there a revised clamp in the works? Just wondering.........

Rick

NoobyBaboo · « **Reply #171 on:** 5 Apr 2005, 02:03 am »

I suggest you buy the upgrade clamp and use it in a prototype context, at least. Machining time is way more expensive than the clamp.

I wonder that part of a solution may be to remove the "cool looking", but with fix useles, clamp skirt since it no longer contacts the CD once the fix is applied. This would remove some useless inertia at least.

Part of the upgrade clamp design intends to keep it light because there are mass parameters the drive is spec'd to work within.

rwalton · « **Reply #172 on:** 5 Apr 2005, 02:37 am »

Hello,

Thanks for your comments.

Having looked carefully at the transport, I now realize what the problem is. There is no vertical section on the drive spindle against which to center the clamp to account for CD thickness variations. That's why Nico sells the plastic "nipple" that must be glued to the spindle. It provides that vertical surface for clamp centering which allows for CD thickness variations. I just didn't like the idea of having to glue it in place.

The solution I'll probably try first is to make a centering "shaft" that fits precisely over the steel pin in the center of the spindle. Then an aluminum clamp can be machined to slide over that shaft and hold the clamping magnet. Assuming this works OK, I would then fiind a way to make the centering shaft "captive", but able to slide up and down inside the outer clamp.

Machining time is "free" if I do it myself

NoobyBaboo · « **Reply #173 on:** 5 Apr 2005, 11:20 am »

On your centering cylinder, machine a nipple to fit into the drive spindle center, and this will center the cylinder that the clamp fits around. Once an index for center is obtained, glueing with a quality mastic becomes easy. Still, it would seem that the shim clamp fix is still needed to drive thin CD's.

rwalton · « **Reply #174 on:** 5 Apr 2005, 08:55 pm »

It's always difficult to describe this sort of thing via text, but there will be no need for gluing. The centering shaft, which will fit over the pin in the center of the spindle, will be able to slide vertically inside the outer clamp. Variability in CD thickness will automatically be compensated for with the sliding spindle. I'm hoping to make the parts on Friday. I'll post a picture (assuming it works).

NoobyBaboo · « **Reply #175 on:** 19 Apr 2005, 11:57 pm »

A few pictures of my CDPro2M w dAck! build:

http://www.wardsweb.org/LSB/04_16_05/H.html

Courtesy of WardsWeb; Thank you Luther.

ken_diyzone.net · « **Reply #176 on:** 20 Apr 2005, 07:44 pm »

Hi NoobyBaboo,

Nice work! How does it sound with the Ack! DAC build in? Compare to Cd-PRO2's internal DAC?

Regards,
Ken

tianguis · « **Reply #177 on:** 21 Apr 2005, 12:57 am »

All:
I guess I'm one of the last to get one of the Nixon Dac kits. Put it together today. It's definitely elevated the performance of the CD-Pro2M. It far surpasses the on-board DAC and Panny XR50 DA convertor. Even with no time on the Black Gates, it's smooth and "un-edgy". Space and air are huge and it has slightly better bass response as well as better resolution. I'm running it off a 12 v. SLA battery which is also powering my modded T-Amp.

Regards,
Larry Welsh

ken_diyzone.net · « **Reply #178 on:** 21 Apr 2005, 01:18 pm »

Larry, NoobyBaboo,

Can you send over a couple of pictures of the DAC inside the CD-PRO2 to me (ken_m_shih@hotmail.com)? I would like to post them on our new website, www.digitalanalogueDIY.com, so others can see how this is done.

Thanks
Ken

tianguis · « **Reply #179 on:** 21 Apr 2005, 02:14 pm »

Ken:
You don't want to see a pic of my DAC. It's totally naked, sitting on a bread board (well, a cutting board) powered through jumpers. I haven't decided if I'll put it inside the CD-Pro2M or house it in a separate chassis. I'm leaning toward the latter, as it will give me more options.
I took a look at your site. Nice stuff! I think the chassis prices are very attractive, knowing how well they're made and what's included.

Larry