CD-PRO2M Builder's questions and comments

JoshK · « **Reply #40 on:** 31 Jan 2005, 03:26 pm »

Quote from: Levi

Gents,

May I suggest the LCD display be moved forward. It is extremely difficult to see the display when it is not in the eye-level. The buttons may need to be labeled or engraved based on it's functions. >, <<, >>.

Levi

I agree on both counts. I was planning to have a look-see about moving the panel forward, this would be a Josh mod though. I was also thinking of having my wife engrave the labels since she is an ex-jeweler. Depending on whether it is easily doable or not I am going to give people the choice for me to do it for those I build the kit.

For me, when I had the CDPro2M in my system, I had a hard time seeing the display because my equipment sits to the left of my listening area and the angle made it impossible to read. It will not be a totally trivial mod though since an aluminum post needs to be moved and will require drilling new holes. However I have a drill press so it can be done, just don't know how hard. Also the push posts need to be shortened. Again not trivial.

ken_diyzone.net · « **Reply #41 on:** 31 Jan 2005, 04:47 pm »

Josh, Levi,

I am thinking along the same line, but seem like Josh have the tools to do it. Not to mention a wife who can engrave!!

1. Move the VFD board forward, by placing it between the support posts. Need to drill new holes on the bottom of box.
2. Cut the push rods and drill new holes on the rods.
3. The above 2 steps allow you to move the CD-PRO2 module forward, so CDs can be place straight down, without that tilt-and-slide. Again, require new holes on the bottom of the box.
4. The internal bay adds on (which I am going to sell at cost, since I feel it should be part of the kit anyway) would fit over everything neatly. Of course, require new holes on the bottom again

Regards,
Ken

ken_diyzone.net · « **Reply #42 on:** 31 Jan 2005, 04:53 pm »

Josh,

Forgot to mention you don't need to "cut" the supporting posts to move the VFD board in between them, you can just "rotate" two of them, and this will create enough room to place the VFD board between them.

Regards,
Ken

JoshK · « **Reply #43 on:** 31 Jan 2005, 04:56 pm »

Holes on the bottom are no big deal, since they are out of site out of mind they don't have to be 100% perfect, and I can get pretty good holes with the drill press.

Cutting the button posts may pose to be problematic because on the back end there is the threaded hole for locking onto the button and on the front end it is tapered and polished. I will need to dwell on this a bit.

I took a quick look and the VFD board didn't fit between the posts, not enough room so one of hte posts would need to be moved.

At this point I am thinking the easiest solution may be to extend the connectors for the IR receiver and display to the VFD PCB, so the PCB stays put but the display goes forward. But I do like the idea of moving the transport up a bit. Again I need to ponder this some more.

JoshK · « **Reply #44 on:** 31 Jan 2005, 05:00 pm »

I didn't think about rotating the posts, that might work, but I could just drill another two holes and move it back a bit too.

SteveSun · « **Reply #45 on:** 31 Jan 2005, 05:46 pm »

Hi Josh: You can find some DMMs (digital multi-meters) have built in transistor tester. Because the VFD module is working in TTL world, you need more information together with schematics to debug. What happened to that A970?

tianguis · « **Reply #46 on:** 3 Feb 2005, 03:23 am »

Ken, Steve, LIMIN, all:
I returned the demo unit I was auditioning and picked up a kit from Ken on Monday evening. After fixing my printer and printing the manual yesterday, I built the three PS boards. Today, I built the other boards and the case, stuck in a few of the completed boards.
This is one fine "kit". Each sub-assembly is in its own bag with necessary parts. Standoffs are non-ferrous. Wire looms are already made. Fit and finish of metal parts is exceptional. Only one Allen wrench is needed for all the hardware. All important electrolytics are Nichicon Muse. Almost all the resistors are Vishay-Dale. Board layout was done by a genius and the boards are great. The manual is good. This one has it all.

Regards,
Larry Welsh

tianguis · « **Reply #47 on:** 4 Feb 2005, 10:12 pm »

Ken, Steve, Limin, all:
I finished building today, mainly just hooking up the wire looms and PS connections. I made sure the supply voltages and polarities were correct, plugged it in and let it rip. All LED's and display as should be. Stuck in a Doors CD and had my first listen. The sound changed pretty radically for the first half-hour and continues to so. I suspect it needs many hours to sound its best.
I built it with the pulse transformers. I also used OFC copper in Teflon 22 AWG from Audience to connect the PS's to the sequential power-on module. I also used the long pins on the display to hang it out in front of the controller board and I can easily read it from where I sit, which I couldn't do with the demo unit many of you have heard. Otherwise, it's stock. I intend to replace some PS caps. The total build time was about 16 hours for me, but I'm a little rusty and took my time.

Regards,
Larry Welsh

JoshK · « **Reply #48 on:** 4 Feb 2005, 10:52 pm »

Quote from: tianguis

Ken, Steve, LIMIN, all:
I returned the demo unit I was auditioning and picked up a kit from Ken on Monday evening. After fixing my printer and printing the manual yesterday, I built the three PS boards. Today, I built the other boards and the case, stuck in a few of the completed boards.
This is one fine "kit". Each sub-assembly is in its own bag with necessary parts. Standoffs are non-ferrous. Wire looms are already made. Fit and finish of metal parts is exceptional. Only one Allen wrench i ...

I was going to say the same thing. I had been meaning to give some feedback. It was one thing to play with the demo and something completely different to build this unit. They thought of almost everything. The build quality is superb and the only one complaint I have I may have a solution for, we'll see soon.

tianguis · « **Reply #49 on:** 5 Feb 2005, 01:30 am »

Josh:
I'm curious about what your complaint might be. I found several discrepencies between the parts list and what was supplied. Those were easily resolved by going to the schematic. I forgot to mention that I built it with OPA627's on the PS boards. My bad. It sounds way better than the demo.

Larry

JoshK · « **Reply #50 on:** 5 Feb 2005, 04:38 am »

My only complaint thus far is the display too far back, imo, but I think that is rectifiable. Considering how well everything is thought out, laid out and built to last and easily customizeable I think one minor inconvenience is easy to live with and deal with. Its an awesome kit.

Its sounds better? Did you make any changes to the kit?

tianguis · « **Reply #51 on:** 5 Feb 2005, 03:39 pm »

Josh:
Thanks to Ken, who passed on an upgrade folks are doing in Taiwan, I built it with OPA627's instead of OPA134's on the 5 v. and 9 v. PS boards. As I mentioned, the display panel is further forward, by about 3/8". Maybe not enough; it may be necessary to move the whole board forward. No need to drill new holes in the chassis, just use longer "L" brackets. The posts are another problem.
I believe it sounds better than the demo, which didn't use OPA627's. I've been listening to the same CD's I auditioned with, and it seems to have a bit more detail and extension and is not as "edgy", even with virtually no break-in. The sound has radically improved over a few hours.

Larry

JoshK · « **Reply #52 on:** 9 Feb 2005, 02:24 pm »

Does anyone have any pictures of how they routed the transformer wiring? The manual doesn't give any print to this and in my experience it is critical to keep noise really low. Just wondering how many of you did it and if your results were good?

tianguis · « **Reply #53 on:** 9 Feb 2005, 03:27 pm »

Josh:
When I built mine, I didn't do anything special with routing, not even twisting the AC's. Just hooked it up and let fly. There are no hum or noise issues with this less-than-optimal arrangement. However, I intend to shorten, twist and wire tie the AC leads before I finally button it up.

Larry

JoshK · « **Reply #54 on:** 9 Feb 2005, 03:30 pm »

Thanks Larry, good to know. I was just being anal I guess. Isn't that what we all are, analphiles?

tianguis · « **Reply #55 on:** 11 Feb 2005, 02:43 am »

Josh:
I'm afraid I must revise my last post. I trimmed all the AC leads to length, twisted them, tie-wrapped and made sure the small-signal wires crossed them at right angles, used self-stick cable clips to hold everything in place. While I didn't think there was any noise before, there's way less now! It's also warmer sounding and has even less digititus, although it was good before. I guess details count. I just looked at a pic I took of Steve's demo unit. The AC's aren't twisted. Could this be the cause of some saying it sounded "mechanical"? I know it's much moire musical now than it was earlier.

Larry

tianguis · « **Reply #56 on:** 13 Feb 2005, 01:56 am »

Josh, all:
Here's a really professional-looking implementation of a display board and transport module relocation:
http://www.diyzone.net/article.php?sid=552
Dig those LED's?

Larry

JoshK · « **Reply #57 on:** 13 Feb 2005, 05:24 am »

Thanks for that Larry. I had a very similar idea, I was just hoping that maybe I could get an extra button to practice on first in case I screw it up, don't want to ruin one that isn't mine.

ken_diyzone.net · « **Reply #58 on:** 13 Feb 2005, 11:56 am »

Hi Josh,

I have a couple extra buttons, I'll send it your way.

Regards,
Ken

tianguis · « **Reply #59 on:** 13 Feb 2005, 02:09 pm »

Ken, Josh,Steve,all:
I picked up a clamp and inner tray from Ken on Friday. Yesterday, I got around to removing and reinstalling the magnet.
After initializing, I left the room for a libation. My wife, Jane, came rushing to the kitchen in amazement, saying she'd never heard such clarity. She was right. The clamp transformed the CD-Pro.
Her's why: the stock clamp has a steel washer which covers the magnet, which is held in with a bit of silicone. However, the ID and OD of the magnet allow for lots of slop in the holder, so there's no positive alignment if the assembler isn't precise. I know mine was way off-center. The new clamp positively locates the magnet.
The eccentric weight of the magnet in the old clamp causes imbalance in the rotating mass. Mechanical jitter? Additionally, I think the larger OD of the new clamp more effectively damps resonance in the CD itself. I have lots of experience with LP clamps on a variety of TT's and can attest to their value. This is my first experience with a CD clamp, but the new one certainly works way better than the original.

Regards,
Larry Welsh