[srb]

Sorry i cannot rotate this pic here on the circle.  The translation between my ipad to AC image upload does not translate as it should.

Once the image is in your gallery you should be able to easily rotate it.

Gallery > Manage my albums > Click on album > Click on image

You will see Rotate left and Rotate right buttons at the bottom right.

Steve

 

[jsalk]

If the amp should fail you have to send the speaker(s) back to the factory for calibration? 

Probably not.  We know the frequencies involved and can set the phase and gain before shipping replacement amps since the driver response variance is extremely small and the cabinet dimensions are fixed in the design.

- Jim

[dbx]

Once the image is in your gallery you should be able to easily rotate it.

Gallery > Manage my albums > Click on album > Click on image

You will see Rotate left and Rotate right buttons at the bottom right.

Steve

 

Thanks SRB.  I managed to fix the image.

[Folsom]

Well this sounds simple, just set the grain near 12' .... That's GOOD, no big problems.

[gregfisk]

Like someone mentioned earlier, just take a picture of the settings on each amp and then you can do whatever you want. Try the gain first and go from there. I have a pair of GR Research Super V's which use the dual 12" woofers and I play with them all the time. After awhile you get used to what you can do and dial them to your room and taste.

[ricardojoa]

How about the bass extension switch?
Doesn't this alter the roll off and curve of the rythmik without messing the cross over and phase?
This should make the subs section sound a bit diferent.

[jsalk]

One additional thought this morning from AXPONA...

If any of the woofers were wired out of phase, it would, for the most part, cancel out the output of that pair.  I don't recall if this is possible (the quick connects might be different sizes), but that would be an issue as well.

- Jim

[Tomy2Tone]

Judging by dbx's avatar I'm guessing these are the ones sent in for review found here...

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=137362.0

Jim are these the same set of E3's? If they are, is it just a coincidence two people have had bass issues in their rooms. From what I remember hearing last year at Newport, bass was not lacking in the least...

[qwknuf6]

I have not yet tampered with any of the dial settings.  Let me know your thoughts.

Sorry i cannot rotate this pic here on the circle.  The translation between my ipad to AC image upload does not translate as it should.

Your gain should be set @ 12:00  as mine is (as set by salk) , one or two clicks make a big difference in bass output and yours  is set @ 10:00  , that is six or seven clicks to low ,  may even try one or two clicks past 12:00 

[billmcc]

Has the OP tried raising the amp's gain? As Jim mentioned the current setting looks to be too low per the picture provided. It seems like a very simple adjustment to make to see if it helps with bass output.

Bill

[DMurphy]

Has the OP tried raising the amp's gain? As Jim mentioned the current setting looks to be too low per the picture provided. It seems like a very simple adjustment to make to see if it helps with bass output.

Bill

It doesn't even look like it's on. 

[Hugh]

The E3 got plenty of bass.

[qwknuf6]

any update?

[gregfisk]

It doesn't even look like it's on.

Green is on, red is in standby waiting for a signal. With my Super V's My volume dial is set at about 2:00 and my midrange and tweeter are 97db efficient. I can't imagine 10:00 is enough, sounds like 12:00 is the magic number for your speakers.

[Jonathon Janusz]

Your gain should be set @ 12:00  as mine is (as set by salk) , one or two clicks make a big difference in bass output and yours  is set @ 10:00  , that is six or seven clicks to low ,  may even try one or two clicks past 12:00

Just for the record, as I don't have a pair of these myself, are the adjustment dials on this version of the servo amps stepped controls?  If so, that is a really nice change to see from an end user standpoint.  I know that someone will say that they 'need' a setting that just 'has' to be between steps, but for me that was one of the things I found most challenging in setting up prior rythmik amps - getting both sides to match by eye.  Also makes fixing setups in the field for manufacturers like Salk easier too - "Count X clicks from all the way [left or right] and you're good."

I hope for the OP dialing in the gain was all that it took. 

[gregfisk]

Just for the record, as I don't have a pair of these myself, are the adjustment dials on this version of the servo amps stepped controls?  If so, that is a really nice change to see from an end user standpoint.  I know that someone will say that they 'need' a setting that just 'has' to be between steps, but for me that was one of the things I found most challenging in setting up prior rythmik amps - getting both sides to match by eye.  Also makes fixing setups in the field for manufacturers like Salk easier too - "Count X clicks from all the way [left or right] and you're good."

I hope for the OP dialing in the gain was all that it took. 

All of the dials are stepped so I just count from full on or full off, otherwise it is difficult to get them right. I think the steps are small enough you don't have a problem getting them just right, at least I don't.

[JonnyFive]

Definitely try increasing the volume on the plate amp.  Mine is at about 11:00 or so.

DBX- I currently own E3s, and I also owned the SS8s. I will say they load the room completely differently.  The SS8s hit very very hard on the low end, it was almost like those passive radiators were flooding the room with ultra-low bass.  With the E3s, I felt the same ultra-low frequencies, just not as loud.  In fact, I came to learn that on music I didn't like it, so I moved the filter up as high as it would go on the plate amp.  Set to "high" on the bass extension knob, I believe.  I also have the filter at 24 db/Octave, which I believe is the standard setting.

With the E3s and hard floors/ceilings, I have a null that I didn't have with the SS8s due to floor/ceiling bounce and interaction between the woofers and midwoofer (right around 100-120 hz).  There's nothing to be done in my current house, as I can't install any treatments in the ceiling.  I didn't have the same null with the SS8s, but this is all just random chance based on room dimensions.

You shouldn't find the bass on the E3s lacking, so turn that volume up on the plate amp and let us know if that helps.

[JerryM]

Hopefully our OP is happily listening to music, with the bass gain set somewhere above zero. 

Hopefully, when he runs out of tears and breath, he'll follow up herein.

[dbx]

Hello all

Sorry I have not touched back.  I have been busy with some commitment weekend activities and also managed to enjoy the E3s.  So let me say a few things here to clear up some things.

It may get lengthy, but hopefully it will all make sense.

First and foremost, the way I have been using the E3s since getting them at its default knob settings on the plate amp, with a crossover rebuild - up until my original post here - the E3s sound wonderful - even if it sounds as if I were using it as a bookshelf speaker with small subwoofer bass output.  Credit Jim and his crew for creating and building one of the finest speakers in the world as his flagship speaker.  I left the knob settings as they were as I received the speakers some months back, since I tend to be conservative (or liberal - pending on my mood) with the bass settings .  Since I have been enjoying the sound, I had no reason to make any changes.  Until I replaced the crossovers in my SS8, and noticed tremendous differences between the two speakers in the bass department.

One of the first things I did after starting this thread is to see why I do not notice much bass in my E3s despite the fact, I can hear the woofers working.  So one night - after powering off the power amp that is connected to the E3s for the night, I connected my ipad to the line input on the plate amp, and played back a movie trailer on youtube.  Sure enough the bass was there, but it was nothing compared to the SS8.  So before doing anything else - after disconnecting the ipad from the line input on the plate amp, I decided to open this post and get the viewpoints of others on how their E3s are performing with the settings on their plate amps.  Good thing I did too, because I don't want to mess with any of the knob settings on the E3s.

After digesting some of your input, and before going any further - the very next night I switched the Bass Extension from Low to High.  I used broadcast television programming as source material and noticed an increase with bass presence, which sounded very pleasant.  I continued to listen to the program I had on throughout the night - so we know at this point that the plate amps and the drivers are working as they should.  I still was gathering input from everyone here, including Jim Salk, to see what everyone thought of the image I posted containing the settings that I had on the plate amp.

Of course everyone chimed in and agreed unanimously that the volume setting was too low at the 10 o clock position.  So the next night, I turned it up to nearly 12 o clock - 5 positions up from the current settings I had on each speaker (and switched back to low on the Bass Extension) and of course, the bass output is no longer shy - forcing me to drop the bass setting on my preamp from 0 to -3.  I have since dialed down the bass 2 clicks on each speaker.

So now, I am happy.  But of course now I have another bass question, which is being forced thanks to having an SS8 to compare to, which I will open another post for later on today.

Thanks much everyone !!!

[dbx]

One additional thought this morning from AXPONA...

If any of the woofers were wired out of phase, it would, for the most part, cancel out the output of that pair.  I don't recall if this is possible (the quick connects might be different sizes), but that would be an issue as well.

- Jim

Yes, the quick connects are of a different size - so you cannot screw this up.  But for those that do not know (Jim and his team knows this) - each of the woofers are connected by two sets of wires - one of the wires goes to the Driver Coil, the other set of wires goes to the Servo Coil.  It is possible to switch these, so if anyone has any need to remove the wiring to the drivers, make certain to label these wires.  On my sets of wires, one set of wires is of a smaller diameter of the other wire.  The smaller set goes to the servo coil, the larger goes to the driver coil.  And the larger set has black shrinkwrap around it to denote that the set of wires goes to the driver coil.

It may take a while to notice the different size wires if removing the woofers from the housing.  So label the wires as you remove them from the woofer in case there is no difference in thickness, or if you do not have a special shrinkwrap around your wiring.