I need a new table saw.

Danny Richie · « **on:** 4 Jan 2015, 12:05 am »

My old one died.

What do you guys recommend?

I have been looking at the Delta 36-725 and Ridgid R4512. And one of the reasons I like those two is that I can move them around pretty easily.

thunderbrick · « **Reply #1 on:** 4 Jan 2015, 12:20 am »

Ryobi used to have a BT-3000 saw, belt drive, lightweight, but on its stand was very robust. All kinds of accessories. I've had one for 20 year and love it. Also sold under the Craftsman brand.

http://www.thewoodworkingcatalog.com/magazine/nov96/ryobi.html

DaveC113 · « **Reply #2 on:** 4 Jan 2015, 12:23 am »

I know it's pricey but the local hardware store just started carrying the ones with the instant blade retractor in it that senses if it's cutting into meat.

I've used a table saw for a very long time without any issue (knock on wood!) but if I were getting a new one I'd seriously consider that particular safety feature.

Currently I own a Delta Contractor Saw with a Biesemeyer (?) 36" fence. 36" isn't really big enough to not be a PITA if you are cutting 4x8 sheets regularly... The saw is good, if you haven't checked out the Forrest blades with the stiffener they are worth it... with a Forrest blade even a cheap direct drive saw can make perfect crosscuts in hardwood and they will go many times longer than a regular blade before needing to be sharpened. The general purpose Woodworker II is better than most finish blades and cuts ANYTHING with great results.

Charles Calkins · « **Reply #3 on:** 4 Jan 2015, 12:25 am »

Can't beat a Delta table saw. They have been around for many,many years and their competition is still trying to catch up.

Cheers
Charlie

Doublej · « **Reply #4 on:** 4 Jan 2015, 12:28 am »

No brainer.

http://www.sawstop.com/

Folsom · « **Reply #5 on:** 4 Jan 2015, 12:52 am »

I've been inclined towards track saws. Festool has one that's pretty amazing.

You can use guide clamps for the track too. The thing about it I like is you don't have to control the piece you cut, you just run the saw right where it should be. Yes you might want scrap under it, or a waffleboard.

Angle cuts are an issue, if you need that. But I'd rather use a router/shaper setup for that.

Folsom · « **Reply #6 on:** 4 Jan 2015, 12:55 am »

Table saw won't do this,

Bob in St. Louis · « **Reply #7 on:** 4 Jan 2015, 01:10 am »

Quote from: Salis Audio on 4 Jan 2015, 12:55 am

Table saw won't do this,

Table saws can do a great many things. Most depend on the levels of skill and creativity of the user.
I've just touched the tip of the iceberg on mine not long ago, but making my own jigs and fixtures has yielded much more complicated joints than that one.
That's two passes through the machine right there.

But I wish I had more space for a true craftsman level of saw. Unfortunately, I've had to modify a contractors grade unit with a sliding table to fit my needs. I'm limited to the size of pieces I can feed through and to a certain extent, the accuracy with larger sizes. My workshop limits my table saw, as I have to fold it up and hide it away for other stages of building.

So to answer the original question, I'd spend as much as you possible can. If you do it right the first time, you'll buy something that you'll pass to your children, and possible your grandchildren. If you cheap out now, you'll have this same search again in your lifetime.
Cast iron sounds nice.

Bob

DaveC113 · « **Reply #8 on:** 4 Jan 2015, 01:12 am »

Quote from: Doublej on 4 Jan 2015, 12:28 am

No brainer.

http://www.sawstop.com/

That's the one. Contractor style saw w/ 52" fence for $1900. No brainer for sure...

I heard about saw stop years ago, apparently the guy tried to sell the tech to the major manufacturers but none of them were willing to pay for it. If it saves just one finger it's worth the extra cash.

Salis, you can definitely do that with a table saw!

Folsom · « **Reply #9 on:** 4 Jan 2015, 01:18 am »

I meant in one pass, ha! What now.

I'm a fan of router tools on tracks as well. Even with guide tools you can do this stuff after the fact of gluing a few pieces together. I've just found controlling tools with guides and tracks easier than larger pieces of wood on a table saw.

Bob in St. Louis · « **Reply #10 on:** 4 Jan 2015, 01:20 am »

With a thick enough dato blade, and an appropriate fixture, I could do that in one pass.

But I don't own either, so I'll just sit over here and be quiet.

DaveC113 · « **Reply #11 on:** 4 Jan 2015, 01:27 am »

Quote from: Salis Audio on 4 Jan 2015, 01:18 am

I meant in one pass, ha! What now.

I'm a fan of router tools on tracks as well. Even with guide tools you can do this stuff after the fact of gluing a few pieces together. I've just found controlling tools with guides and tracks easier than larger pieces of wood on a table saw.

I do agree that a router is more precise than a table saw for making joints... Dado blades work but I'd rather use a router for "fine" woodworking. Dados are great for making kitchen cabinets.

Now I want a SawStop contractors saw! I figure I could sell my Delta for at least half of the cost of a new SawStop...

jparkhur · « **Reply #12 on:** 4 Jan 2015, 01:28 am »

I have this one and is stable, portable and has great power. Vacuum attachment on back, all tools included.

glynnw · « **Reply #13 on:** 4 Jan 2015, 01:31 am »

Do NOT do what I did. For years I nursed along an old Craftsman belt drive saw that I inherited from my father. It worked great but it finallly reached a point where it was just too heavy for me to take apart and repair, which it needed often - age is a bitch for saws as well as men. So I went to Sears and bought a cheap one for under $200. It is direct drive and when it starts it makes such a godawful noise it scares me. But the main fault is that the blade is just not aligned correctly and cannot be adjusted. I cannot use a fence to make repeated cuts because the wood is pushed into the fence and binds. Now I get Home Depot to make the major cuts, I use the table saw to trim and finally use a router to get the edges even. I plan on downsizing in a couple of years so a large saw just isn't in my future. It is very frustrating. For my next project I think I'll just pay a cabinet shop to do the cutting.

Folsom · « **Reply #14 on:** 4 Jan 2015, 01:32 am »

Don't watch Festool videos unless you want to buy tools.

DaveC113 · « **Reply #15 on:** 4 Jan 2015, 01:39 am »

Quote from: Salis Audio on 4 Jan 2015, 01:32 am

Don't watch Festool videos unless you want to buy tools.

WAY too much cash! My local hardware store that is carrying SawStop has all the Festool range, I can't believe how expensive they are... reminds me of the crazy-expensive Snap-On and Mac tools sold in vans that keeps auto mechanics in permanent debt.

Folsom · « **Reply #16 on:** 4 Jan 2015, 01:45 am »

Some of their products are not that valuable unless you do onsite work for carpentry including trim install. You basically have to use their HEPA vacuum for some work. Their drills, screws, and impacts are absolutely stupid.

Others are the only ones to own. Their oscillating tool with plumb guide? OMG, yes. Their jigsaw, oh man... Their price on the miter saw makes me sad, however.

sts9fan · « **Reply #17 on:** 4 Jan 2015, 01:53 am »

Quote from: Doublej on 4 Jan 2015, 12:28 am

No brainer.

http://www.sawstop.com/

I would buy a Festool over that. Do you own a Sawstop?

I.Greyhound Fan · « **Reply #18 on:** 4 Jan 2015, 02:05 am »

Get a Saw Stop, it won't cut your finger. Its well worth the extra money. A friend of mine has one, it is a nice table, I got to use it helping build a new wooden case for my Thorens TD-145 TT out of Cocobolo wood.

As an emergency medicine physician, I have taken care of a lot of patients that have cut their fingers or hands off using table saw's in my 25 years of practice.

http://www.sawstop.com/

TomS · « **Reply #19 on:** 4 Jan 2015, 02:22 am »

Quote from: I.Greyhound Fan on 4 Jan 2015, 02:05 am

Get a Saw Stop, it won't cut your finger. Its well worth the extra money. A friend of mine has one, it is a nice table, I got to use it helping build a new wooden case for my Thorens TD-145 TT out of Cocobolo wood.

As an emergency medicine physician, I have taken care of a lot of patients that have cut their fingers or hands off using table saw's in my 25 years of practice.

http://www.sawstop.com/

I am one of those fools. Fortunately, my thumb was re-attached thanks to my favorite ortho doc. I use a Festool TS55 track saw for ripping sheet goods most of the time now, as the blade retracts for safety and the work piece is stationary. If I ever do invest in another table saw it will be a Sawstop with the sliding table.

Danny's looking at ~$500-600 mobile saws though, not $2k+ such as Sawstop.