I need a new table saw.

PRELUDE · « **Reply #20 on:** 4 Jan 2015, 02:24 am »

Quote from: I.Greyhound Fan on 4 Jan 2015, 02:05 am

Get a Saw Stop, it won't cut your finger. Its well worth the extra money. A friend of mine has one, it is a nice table, I got to use it helping build a new wooden case for my Thorens TD-145 TT out of Cocobolo wood.

As an emergency medicine physician, I have taken care of a lot of patients that have cut their fingers or hands off using table saw's in my 25 years of practice.

http://www.sawstop.com/

Did you save any pictures from the ones that they cut their hands off?
I think, It only happens in Halloween or he might was a butcher.

Folsom · « **Reply #21 on:** 4 Jan 2015, 02:35 am »

Go with a track saw over a mobile cheap table saw...

mlundy57 · « **Reply #22 on:** 4 Jan 2015, 02:38 am »

Coming from someone who's hand has tangled with a power saw, the safety of the SawStop is something I would have if I had the space for it and could afford it. But I can't so I also have the portable version of the Ridgid. Mine's a TS rather than an R model. It's pretty good but has it's limitations. For one, dust collection leaves plenty to be desired, even when the unit is connected to a 2HP dust collector with a 4" hose. Also, handling full size sheet goods with this saw is next to impossible to do by myself, even with rollers and outriggers.

Lowe's and/or Home Depot will cut MDF to reasonable widths I can handle but if I want to use Baltic Birch I have to be able to handle 5'x5' sheets. That's why I would like to get a track saw. While Festool is expensive, I have to apply finish in the same two car garage I make sawdust in so I am saving up for a Festool track saw, sander and HEPA dust collector.

One question would be, how accurate and square does the cut need to be off the saw? While I can get the length real accurate with a few setup cuts, perfectly square is outside the ability of my portable Ridgid so I cut a little large and flush trim. On the other hand, my brother-in-law's professional level table saw is so accurate he can cut inside squares and have them fit perfectly the first time. But then his saw costs at least 5x what mine did and is permanently bolted to the floor.

The contractor version of the Ridgid saw mentioned in the first post most likely provides more accurate cuts than my portable version but my portable version only takes up a few inches of floor space when folded.

sts9fan · « **Reply #23 on:** 4 Jan 2015, 02:42 am »

Quote from: TomS on 4 Jan 2015, 02:22 am

I am one of those fools. Fortunately, my thumb was re-attached thanks to my favorite ortho doc. I use a Festool TS55 track saw for ripping sheet goods most of the time now, as the blade retracts for safety and the work piece is stationary. If I ever do invest in another table saw it will be a Sawstop with the sliding table.

Danny's looking at ~$500-600 mobile saws though, not $2k+ such as Sawstop.

This is an audio forum! All recs go x4 of the budget.
Like I said, get a Festool track saw or a Eurekazone like I have and never use a table saw again. Way safer and way easier.
http://www.eurekazone.com/mobile/Product.aspx?id=37954

Alan · « **Reply #24 on:** 4 Jan 2015, 02:54 am »

Quote from: Danny Richie on 4 Jan 2015, 12:05 am

My old one died.

What do you guys recommend?

I have been looking at the Delta 36-735 and Ridgid R4512. And one of the reasons I like those two is that I can move them around pretty easily.

735? Do you mean this one? http://www.deltamachinery.com/products/table-saws/item/36-725-2 ?
I was looking at that one too, looks good. But I'm reasonably happy with my jet contractor saw, better than many.

BTW, I don't try to cut full size sheets on it. Rough cut them with circular saw til they fit on the sled, which is the first thing you should make for accuracy and safety. http://wnwoodworkingschool.com/5-cuts-to-a-perfect-cross-cut-sled/

The saw stop would be great. Personally I'm just not fond of track saws. to each his own.

t-dog · « **Reply #25 on:** 4 Jan 2015, 03:06 am »

I recently had this same decision to make. I investigated countless options and price points. I have a small garage to work in so size was an issue. In the end I decided to make do with the Festool TS55 REQ track saw setup. It's not cheap and you will find that you'll want more and more Festool products. I can afford them so I took the plunge but a few years back I couldn't have justified the price tag. Festool track saw with their MUlti Function Table can replace a table saw completely.

Now if you want a table saw instead I would highly recommend Sawstop. They will be releasing a portable model soon that will have a price point of about $1100. Yes it's still a lot but a mangled hand or lost finger is worth it. I can't work without the use of both of my hands so I'd pay 10 times that if that was my only option.

If you need to stay under $600 bucks then go with the Rigid, I think it's model 4512? It's the $549 Home Depot saw. Has great reviews and they've worked out the alignment bugs the older versions had.

S Clark · « **Reply #26 on:** 4 Jan 2015, 03:17 am »

If you can get a Sawstop at just over $1K, that's what I'd try to save for. Table saw accidents are seldom minor. Usually they take a finger off with a crosscut. My brother was lucky. He somehow pushed the end of his finger into his saw, splitting it down the middle for about 1/2". Most the bone is gone, but they managed to sew it back together. Darndest looking fingernail now...
I talked our school Ag teacher into replacing the shop saws years ago, even at a much higher price point. Get the Sawstop if you can afford it.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #27 on:** 4 Jan 2015, 03:59 am »

Quote from: Alan on 4 Jan 2015, 02:54 am

735? Do you mean this one? http://www.deltamachinery.com/products/table-saws/item/36-725-2 ?
I was looking at that one too, looks good. But I'm reasonably happy with my jet contractor saw, better than many.

Yeah, that's the one I meant. I just typo'ed the number.

It and the Ridgid both look pretty good.

steve f · « **Reply #28 on:** 4 Jan 2015, 06:47 am »

I've used a Delta contractors saw, and owned a Rigid for years. Both are very good. But if I was to get a new saw I'd buy the Sawstop. The extra bucks are worth it for safety.
I don't do as much building as I used to so I try to get my large Baltic birch pieces cut for me at a shop.
Those Festools are nice too. All the accuracy and they don't fill up the garage either. Unless you are doing production work, they're worth consideration.

grimace · « **Reply #29 on:** 4 Jan 2015, 02:01 pm »

For my 40th birthday, I found an old, used Powermatic 66 table saw (cabinet) and sent it to a guy in Alabama who re-surfaced the cast iron top and installed a modern safety switch and most importantly, painted it orange for me. Cuts through NoRez like butter

I had the Powermatic contractor's saw before and it was nice, but this is much better. All in with the used saw, restore, and shipping was less than a brand new one and IMHO, it runs much smoother and is more stable and powerful than the new PM2000 and the new Delta that my friends own.

That said, if I were cutting sheet goods like MDF a lot as I would guess you are, I would seriously consider a track saw tool (e.g. Festool). Check out the wood whisperer videos on his Tablesaw and track saws. He uses both. Grizzly has a setup now for under $250 http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/grizzly-track-saw-review/ Also, the ability with the Festool to get HEPA quality dust collection for cutting MDF would be well worth the extra cost. That MDF dust is nasty. Sorry for the bad quality pic of my saw...

Bob in St. Louis · « **Reply #30 on:** 4 Jan 2015, 02:49 pm »

Quote from: grimace on 4 Jan 2015, 02:01 pm

Check out the wood whisperer videos

I'll second that, he's got some great videos.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #31 on:** 4 Jan 2015, 03:18 pm »

I am not sure how SawStop would react to a sheet of No Rez. My guess is that it would treat it just like a finger or a hot dog weenie and shut down.

S Clark · « **Reply #32 on:** 4 Jan 2015, 03:27 pm »

I thought it had a moisture sensor.
Just looked it up... picks up electrical contact with skin.

TomS · « **Reply #33 on:** 4 Jan 2015, 03:40 pm »

Quote from: Danny Richie on 4 Jan 2015, 03:18 pm

I am not sure how SawStop would react to a sheet of No Rez. My guess is that it would treat it just like a finger or a hot dog weenie and shut down.

If it does react to it, you can bypass the interlock. That function is typically used for cutting wood with too much moisture.

bladesmith · « **Reply #34 on:** 4 Jan 2015, 03:44 pm »

I have used a lot of different saws and saw brands over the years. I can say one thing for sure, "Delta" puts a very powerful and very reliable motor in there table saws...first rate in my experience with furniture and cabinet making..

good luck..

Peter J · « **Reply #35 on:** 4 Jan 2015, 03:45 pm »

Danny, I'm thinkin' the NoRez would get through the saw OK. I've read about and witnessed the tech on Saw Stop and it's pretty incredible. That being said, I don't see it as a game changer. If it should activate, it's gonna cost you a cartridge and a blade..that's $200 with the blades I use.

And to those that would argue the point, that attitude does not translate into valuing my fingers at $200. It's a personal choice, I'm completely confident in my ability to keep my hands out of the saw and it's not the only potentially dangerous machine in the shop. I'll leave it at that.

On the other hand, the track saw idea would be a real possibility for you, especially from a portability and storage standpoint. Use a cutting table of any number of configurations and it can do most of what a table saw can do. In my case, it wouldn't be a replacement for a table saw, but I've been using an EZ Smart for a long time and it still sees regular duty. FWIW, many find it to be just that though; a viable alternative to a table saw.

Peter J · « **Reply #36 on:** 4 Jan 2015, 03:50 pm »

Quote from: grimace on 4 Jan 2015, 02:01 pm

For my 40th birthday, I found an old, used Powermatic 66 table saw (cabinet) and sent it to a guy in Alabama who re-surfaced the cast iron top and installed a modern safety switch and most importantly, painted it orange for me. Cuts through NoRez like butter I had the Powermatic contractor's saw before and it was nice, but this is much better. All in with the used saw, restore, and shipping was less than a brand new one and IMHO, it runs much smoother and is more stable and powerful than the new PM2000 and the new Delta that my friends own.

That said, if I were cutting sheet goods like MDF a lot as I would guess you are, I would seriously consider a track saw tool (e.g. Festool). Check out the wood whisperer videos on his Tablesaw and track saws. He uses both. Grizzly has a setup now for under $250 http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/grizzly-track-saw-review/ Also, the ability with the Festool to get HEPA quality dust collection for cutting MDF would be well worth the extra cost. That MDF dust is nasty. Sorry for the bad quality pic of my saw...

Beautiful old 66, grimace. I'm a little envious.

Doublej · « **Reply #37 on:** 4 Jan 2015, 05:37 pm »

Quote from: sts9fan on 4 Jan 2015, 01:53 am

I would buy a Festool over that. Do you own a Sawstop?

No, I leave woodworking to those with much greater skills than I have. The most complex thing I ever made out of wood was a bird sculpture in middle school.

bladesmith · « **Reply #38 on:** 4 Jan 2015, 06:25 pm »

Using a circular saw with a rip guide, can work okay. You might place some wide Blue tape over the cut line and that will help with splintering, (thats an old trick.) If you are only using it for MDF, not an issue. And the price is very economical.

Referring back to the original post; you will not get a high SFM (Surface Feet per Minute) with a Circular saw vs a Table saw. Even thou the RPMs on each motor may be very similar. That's why most people use a table saw for cabinet/furniture making. Yes, it has a fence for making square cuts, but it also has the advantage of a higher SFM, spins faster and cuts smoother. Less splintering..

Versatility and economics are a big factor too.. The Grizzly set up seems pretty cool for a mobile application or job site application. Or just simply cutting MDF, were splintering isn't an issue.

mlundy57 · « **Reply #39 on:** 4 Jan 2015, 07:49 pm »

Quote from: Danny Richie on 4 Jan 2015, 03:18 pm

I am not sure how SawStop would react to a sheet of No Rez. My guess is that it would treat it just like a finger or a hot dog weenie and shut down.

That is something that would definitely need to be checked out. The SawStop doesn't just shut down when it senses meat, it has a set of emergency brakes that instantly imbed themselves into the saw blade. Once the brakes have been engaged, both the brake cartridge (~$70-$80) and the blade are toast and have to be replaced.

Just saw TomS's post. That's good to know. Just have to be careful when cutting the NoRez, but then that's how it is without the SawStop anyway.