[MCM_Fan]

Thanks for the SMPS300 link, I might have to give that one a try then. The Pyramid from my experience does not sound as good as a battery or Meanwell SMPS.

Do you have a part number for the Meanwell SMPS you were using?  Because of the industry I work in, I have access to a number of decent quality SMPS supplies, including the Meanwell GS90A19-P1M.  This is a 19V/4.74A/90W supply.  I also have some of the HuntKey Universal Laptop Adapter ES Ultra Edition 19.5V/4.6A/90W supplies.  At $54 and $35 these aren't your typical cheap SMPS supplies that you can get on ebay or from Amazon for less than 10 bucks.  I like the small size and lack of annoying LED on the Huntkey, but the Meanwell has a very good reputation - that's why we specified it on a recent product I managed.  The best thing is, when I told my boss I was building these amps, he handed me 3 of each and told me to knock myself out.

However here in SoCal the power is awful so it could be that the SMPS simply does a better job of regulating the crappy power than the linear. So YMMV.

In my system, the SMPS will be plugged into a Panamax M5300-EX power conditioner.  This is an 11-outlet power condition that originally sold for $500 that I picked up at my local Goodwill for $29.99.  So, I'm not worried about the quality of the power coming into my SMPS.  However, the systems I'm building for my daughter and girlfriend will be plugged directly into the wall.  So, I may go with the Meanwell SMPS supplies for their amps.

[rhing]

Those Mean Well PSUs look very nice. If you are willing to work with encasing an open frame SMPS, the Mean Well RS-100-xx (100W) or Mean Well RS-150-xx (150W) series SMPS systems are great value. You would have to know how to wire an IEC inlet, fuse, DC power connector and DC power cable, but these power supplies offer lower ripple and tighter regulation than the brick-type supplies you mention. The output can be user-adjusted as well.

My friend has one and initially used it with his YJ TPA3116 blue amp with great results. After I shared with him my experiences in using an Astron RS-12A regulated linear power supply, he bought an Astron for himself and hasn't gone back. He told me the Astron provides a blacker background, a larger and deeper sound stage, improved bass response and better dynamic response in comparison to his Mean Well RS-100-12.

The link that Wushuliu shared about Astron power supplies is a great resource. Even though Astron supplies are quite popular among HAM radio enthusiasts, they are not perfect. For what we use them for in powering 90 percent efficient, low power Class D audio amps, we are well within the operating window, but it may be different for HAM radio operators with more demanding requirements.

[shadowlight]

Rich,

Where did you pickup your Astron?

[rhing]

I found mine through Craigslist for $20. Even though it's an older unit, it is in mint condition and the previous owner told me he hardly used it as it was a spare unit. You can purchase these new from places like HAM Radio Outlet or Gigaparts. My friend bought his from Gigaparts for $80. If the Ten Tec 937 is identical to the Astron SL-11A, these same retailers carry that model as well.

[Poultrygeist]

I've used this Meanwell PS for several years with a TK2050. Maybe I should give it a try with the 3116.

[OzarkTom]

Interesting that the Ten Tec 937 bears a striking resemblance to the Astron SL-11A, which really puts out 7A continuous duty. This power supply is still offered by Astron. What other regulated linear power supplies have you and your friend Rex tried with the TBI Millenia? Have you compared the TBI Millenia to the TPA3116D2 amps that have been covered in this thread?

The Astrons looks very similar to the Ten Tec, that should work. Here is one that looks cool, 20 amps with meters. One went for $56 recently on Ebay. It weighs a whopping 18 pounds.

http://www.hamradio.com/detail.cfm?pid=H0-004431

Rex and I have found that the SLA batteries always sounded better than any SMPS we tried, although after Jan's power supply mod on the TBI, the SMPS sounded much better than before. We also tried the $500 King Rex Power Supply and the Ten Tec beat it. If you are a serious listener, try and get one of these linear power supplies. I don't think anything will beat it and it stays in the cheap and cheerful category. The Astron SL-11A usually go for $30-50 used on Ebay. There is one on Ebay now, starting bid is $24.95.

Rex and I have tried several of the TPA amps on Ebay. They sound musical, but the TBI is more  dynamic with a much larger soundstage. There is a lot more holographic information also. The TBI will stand up to the Job 225 amp in imaging and soudstage, the Job amp is clearer and more transparent. I am sure you have seen some of the Job amp reviews, that amp is as good as everyone says it is. But my TBI is not going anywhere. This is one I am taking to my grave.

[MCM_Fan]

Those Mean Well PSUs look very nice. If you are willing to work with encasing an open frame SMPS, the Mean Well RS-100-xx (100W) or Mean Well RS-150-xx (150W) series SMPS systems are great value. You would have to know how to wire an IEC inlet, fuse, DC power connector and DC power cable, but these power supplies offer lower ripple and tighter regulation than the brick-type supplies you mention. The output can be user-adjusted as well.

I'm not sure if I want to put that much money into these little amps.  In all honesty, I don't think my daughter and girlfriend would notice the difference.

For mine, I'm hoping the combination of running the AC through the Panamax power conditioner and the high quality Meanwell brick will yield good results.  Plus, I got the Meanwell bricks for free.  So, might as well give them a try.

[Oscillate]

Ok ...you guys finally did it! I have not even read through this
entire thread and yet am convinced even a newbie like me can
build out one of these things

Soon I will order two of these from YuanJing. Because they seem
the easiest to modify.

Question please... Do you think this amplifier would pair well with
a Promitheus TVC or a Nelson Pass designed B1 buffer preamp?
It would be nice to use a passive preamp and maybe battery power
for the amp?

Lastly ...thanks a lot for furthering my descent into the dark side
of audio Gheeeez! 

[rhing]

As long as you don't need the extra gain from the preamp stage, either piece will be a very nice buffer between your sources and the TPA3116 amp.

[Oscillate]

Earlier in this thread, matt_garman linked to a thread at diyAudio on how to
change the red TPS3116D2 boards from stereo to a PBTL configuration (ie.
I believe that means 'monoblock' ?). Has anyone done that modification to
their red or blue boards here on AudioCircle? Aside from the increased power,
did you notice any sonic benefits or detriments?

[rajacat]

Earlier in this thread, matt_garman linked to a thread at diyAudio on how to
change the red TPS3116D2 boards from stereo to a PBTL configuration (ie.
I believe that means 'monoblock' ?). Has anyone done that modification to
their red or blue boards here on AudioCircle? Aside from the increased power,
did you notice any sonic benefits or detriments?

I curious about this too. Thanks for the link.

[rhing]

Have you downloaded and read the TI data sheet? There is information there on configuring the amp to operate in PBTL mode. It's probably easier to adjust for higher gain first before going through the hassle of switching to PBTL mode.

[wushuliu]

I personally like changing to 32 or 36db gain on TPAs. They sound better to me. Stock is 26 I believe.

[MCM_Fan]

Thanks  MCM_Fan. A bill of materials would be excellent. I am surprised that no one offers a kit, e.g.

Board
Board Spacers
Screws
Speaker Terminals
Wire
Connector with RCA Jacks
Power Switch
Knob
Case
Feet
Power Supply (optional)

I'll definitely publish a BOM once I've completed my builds and am satisfied with the results.

I received the Context Engineering cases from San Jose Scientific today and my order from Mouser.  I'm impressed with the quality of the enclosures, and the fast shipping (the mailman actually attempted delivery yesterday, but I wasn't home to sign for the package).  I now have all the caps and inductors to mod the boards, but no boards to mod.  I'm waiting on my order from Digikey (switches and pots) and the binding posts and TPA3116 boards from Hong Kong.  Of course, I can just attach the speaker wires directly to the board for testing.  So, the boards are the gating item at this point.  Hopefully, they will be here soon.

[rhing]

If you have the dimensions for the components you are mounting on the enclosures, you can begin mounting them now while you're waiting for the amp to arrive. I used a lot of masking tape to cover and protect the metal. On top of the masking tape, I marked the center points of all the holes and center-punched them. I used a cordless drill and 3/32" dia. bit to create starter holes. After that, I used my bench top drill press to drill the mounting holes and deburred them.

When the amp and the rest of the components show up, you can mount them and the final construction will go a lot faster. There are three mounting holes for the YJ blue amp. The front two closest to the input connector are 25mm apart--center to center. The third hole centered between the speaker output terminal blocks is 71mm from the front holes--center to center. I used 4-40 Nylon standoffs, screws and nuts to mount my boards to avoid any possible ground loops between the chassis, connectors and amp.

[OzarkTom]

An update on the Ten Tec 937 power supply. Someone in the know pm'ed me, it turns out that Aristron made that for Ten Tec. Aristron linear power supplies can be found everywhere. And after he bought one of these Ten Tecs himself, he is surprised on how much better it sounds over the battery. These work great on both the TBI and all TPA chip amps.

[wushuliu]

An update on the Ten Tec 937 power supply. Someone in the know pm'ed me, it turns out that Aristron made that for Ten Tec. Aristron linear power supplies can be found everywhere. And after he bought one of these Ten Tecs himself, he is surprised on how much better it sounds over the battery. These work great on both the TBI and all TPA chip amps.

Excellent. Thanks Tom.

[wired4sound]

Popping sound on YJ's blue board is irritating , but stunning sound . I wonder if there are other boards out there that has the same sound quality without the popping or hissing issues.
Anyone tried this board? http://www.ebay.com/itm/TPA3116-Class-D-Power-Amplifier-Board-Support-STEREO-50Wx2-MONO-PBTL-100W-/121294927725?pt=US_Amplifier_Parts_Components&hash=item1c3dbdb76d

[Doublej]

Regarding popping can you tweak for the snubber circuit for a specific pair of speakers to eliminate it?  The YJ site says:

Output LC Filter, C-RC Snubber are used by all axial parts, easy to change it for different speaker load.

[MCM_Fan]

If you have the dimensions for the components you are mounting on the enclosures, you can begin mounting them now while you're waiting for the amp to arrive. I used a lot of masking tape to cover and protect the metal. On top of the masking tape, I marked the center points of all the holes and center-punched them. I used a cordless drill and 3/32" dia. bit to create starter holes. After that, I used my bench top drill press to drill the mounting holes and deburred them.

When the amp and the rest of the components show up, you can mount them and the final construction will go a lot faster. There are three mounting holes for the YJ blue amp. The front two closest to the input connector are 25mm apart--center to center. The third hole centered between the speaker output terminal blocks is 71mm from the front holes--center to center. I used 4-40 Nylon standoffs, screws and nuts to mount my boards to avoid any possible ground loops between the chassis, connectors and amp.

Wow, thanks for the PCB mounting hole locations.  That will definitely give me a head start on my chassis builds.  I have a bunch of nylon standoffs around here in various lengths.  Do you recall what height you used for yours?  I don't recall seeing any photos of the back side of the PCB, but it looks like all the components are all mounted on the top side.  If that's true, the standoffs will just need to provide enough clearance, with a little safety margin, to prevent the trimmed through-hole leads from shorting to the case.  I plan to make a cardboard mock-up of the PCB while I'm waiting for the real thing to arrive.  I even have the Wima input caps (and some of the Radio Shack ones, too) along with the Panasonic power supply caps.  So, I can "mount" them on my cardboard PCB to double check the fit.  The first two are going into the Context Engineering 3008 enclosures.  So, I want to make sure I don't have any clearance issues.

One final question before I start drilling metal (good tip on the masking tape).  I know the standard center-to-center distance for binding posts is 0.75", but the data sheet for the ones you recommended doesn't give the mounting hole diameter.  I didn't order the ones you recommended.  I ordered some from China at a much lower price (and they will probably be the last item to arrive).  I did find some specs for other brands of similar binding posts and they all listed the mounting hole diameter as 1/2".  Can you conform that is the correct size for the Keystone binding posts you used?  Do you know if that is some sort of standard dimension, like the 3/4" center-to-center spacing?