[Danny Richie]

Remember, these are front vented .... hence   the C/o would be  between  brace D and F on the rear wall  so   I don't think I could get to it through the woofer hole
I could maybe fit it above brace  D on the rear wall but Danny suggested I put it below D and above F

I always build it so that it can slide through the woofer hole and mount on the rear wall right behind the lower woofer.

[Captainhemo]

I always build it so that it can slide through the woofer hole and mount on the rear wall right behind the lower woofer.

The crossovers were just a little too big to fit there so  I was left  with  putting them    on the rear wall between D and F.  There  is no way  too ever get too them  via the bottom woofer hole  so  I  made an access panel on the rear wall.  It's just big enough to  hold the crossovers and   pout the  electra tubes    right below the c/o's.   Not   exactly as I 'd planned it but I wasn't going to bury   the c/o's with no way to get to them.  Pics coming in my build thread.

-jay

[PDR]

I have a question for Danny....or anyone that knows....about the X-over assembly
for the Super V.

I've seen this picture of the X-over:



Can I tighten the construction up?...If so whats the closet the pieces can
Be?.....I imagine the caps and resistors can be side by side but
what about the Coils (dont know what you call them). I know they
have to be orientated the way they are....but how close can they be
to each other?

Thanks

[Danny Richie]

I have a question for Danny....or anyone that knows....about the X-over assembly
for the Super V.

I've seen this picture of the X-over:

Can I tighten the construction up?...If so whats the closet the pieces can
Be?.....I imagine the caps and resistors can be side by side but
what about the Coils (dont know what you call them). I know they
have to be orientated the way they are....but how close can they be
to each other?

Thanks

The reasons that I had it laid out that way was to keep the coils separated further, and of coarse I had the space. If it is tightened up one must be more careful in keeping orientations turned so that there will be no interference patterns.

[stevenkelby]

Here's a pic of mine if it helps (no side panels on the speakers btw):



I covered the kit alumiloy wire in black shrink so it looks neater in the speakers

Danny, could it be built like that but with all parts touching each other, squashed together?

I have this old pic about spacing/laying out coils too, hope it helps Perry:



From here:

http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/coils.htm

Steve.

[Guy 13]

That would take the seller more time to prepare the kits and cost us more in the long run, not worth it IMO. 

Hot glue isn't available overseas?

Hi face all Audio Circle members.
More time for the seller to prepare the kits
and more money in his pockets,
because he would be able to ask more money for the partially assembled kits.
Some people like to buy everything they need from one source, one order one payment, one shipping, etc..
For someone that have no soldering and mechanical skills
(Yes, there are a few of those)
if the kit cost more, it might be a saving for them,
because instead of overheating components,
re-wired incorrectly wired components in the first place, etc...
They would have a plug and play unit.
On a long term, you will save money and frustrations.
Please don't think every DIYer can do what you can do.
We are not all the same and that's good.
Yes, hot glue is (Now) available in Vietnam.
It was not the case 25 years ago.

Guy 13

[Trismos]

"Cold Heat" soldering gun. Anyone try one of these? http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/6151688/ns/technology_and_science-tech_and_gadgets/t/cold-heat-soldering-iron-runs-hot-cold/#.ULyuxOTuWTQ

I have one something like Danny shows, one step down perhaps - http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00954046000P

But I see the Cold Heat on t.v. now and again and I read the review above.

I just received my V-1 cross-over parts and will spend the winter building this thing. Expect some dumb questions!
(Like: why are there so many damn parts for a coax and why in the schematic do there appear to be 4 leads? There's the extra + and - leads in the middle of the schematic.)

[Danny Richie]

I tried one of those cold heat soldering guns once. It sucked. It was like soldering with a soldering gun with a broken tip.

[stevenkelby]

Yep those cold heat ones suck . I use a good old Hako 936 and love it but the best I've ever used is a Metcal MX-5000.

why in the schematic do there appear to be 4 leads? There's the extra + and - leads in the middle of the schematic.)

The + leads all come from the same place, as do the -.

For example, in my pic a few posts up you can see the thick black wires coming up out of a hole in the board near the bottom of the pic. The + wire then goes to the left and gets soldered to the Erse cap, the Mills resistor and the big inductor, one solder joint for all those wires. You can see in the schematic that they all need to be connected together.

Hope that helps

Steve.

[Trismos]

Yep those cold heat ones suck . I use a good old Hako 936 and love it but the best I've ever used is a Metcal MX-5000.

The + leads all come from the same place, as do the -.

For example, in my pic a few posts up you can see the thick black wires coming up out of a hole in the board near the bottom of the pic. The + wire then goes to the left and gets soldered to the Erse cap, the Mills resistor and the big inductor, one solder joint for all those wires. You can see in the schematic that they all need to be connected together.

Hope that helps

Steve.

Thx Steve .... You appear to have an extra cap at the Jupiter cap?

[stevenkelby]

No worries, yes it's a small sonicap platinum, also a small sonicap in parallel with the big sonicap on the right.

Not needed but I already had them here so thought I'd use them, shouldn't do any harm. I'll remove them after a few hundred hours of play just to see how they affected the sound and put them back if I prefer them in

[Trismos]

This post was made in a Super-V build thread back in September:

From this pic that Danny posted and because I am somewhat electrically illiterate, I had a difficult time trying to picture what the schematic that comes with the cross-overs shows verses this picture.




In the schematic, the line of {+ > capacitor >  Resistor >  coil to -} is different than in the picture. I see {+ > resistor > coil > cap > -}. This doesn't matter?

[stevenkelby]

In the schematic, the line of {+ >  capacitor >  Lynk Resistor >  coil to -} is different than in the picture. I see {+ > resistor > coil > cap > -}. This doesn't matter?

I don't want to answer for Danny but do want to help if I can as I know it's tricky for a first timer!

I noticed that too and assembled it according to the schematic, Danny said that was fine so I can only assume it doesn't matter either way, or that Danny changed the schematic at some point and we have the latest version.

[Jonathon Janusz]

Trismos and Steven:

I'm sure Danny would be glad to help answer these questions as needed, but I would humbly suggest removing the photo of the crossover schematic and the references to specific part values within it from the forum posts.  Someone else did this mistakenly once before a while back. . . Remember, folks pay Danny good money for this info (not to mention competitors wanting to check things out for their own purposes).  If it is posted freely on the Internet, it makes things tougher for Danny to put food on the table.

Danny, please feel free to edit/delete this post as needed to put the thread back on track.  I would have just reported the post, but I didn't see a button on the forum page to do it.

Good night, all!

[stevenkelby]

Oh yes you're right, sorry I didn't think again, it was me that posted the schematic here a while back! I deleted it then and would suggest Trismos delete that schematic from his post too.

Danny did post that pic of the crossover himself and other people have posted pics of theirs so I assume it's ok, you can't make out all the component values or exactly how it's wired up.

Steve.

[Trismos]

Schematic and reference to values deleted.

[Danny Richie]

I don't mind the pics of the crossovers that show no values, but do not post schematics please.

There are two LCR networks in this crossover. One is actually an impedance compensation network at the front of the network. The other is a notch filter for the tweeters response. In both cases the inductor, cap, and resistor can be in any order and it will not matter. So LCR, LRC, RLC, RCL, CLR, or CRL.

[demarco]

Hey Danny, or anyone who can help.

I've read this post a few times in regards to another crossover I'm building (my first crossover). I understand you guys shouldn't post the schematic (otherwise I could probably answer this question on my own), but I wanted to ask if that pink wire on the bottom right (http://www.gr-research.com/mis/complete.jpg) is a positive wire which is hooked up to the binding posts. If not, which wire is meant for the binding post (positive and negative). This will help me understand crossovers a bit more.

[Danny Richie]

Hey Danny, or anyone who can help.

I've read this post a few times in regards to another crossover I'm building (my first crossover). I understand you guys shouldn't post the schematic (otherwise I could probably answer this question on my own), but I wanted to ask if that pink wire on the bottom right (http://www.gr-research.com/mis/complete.jpg) is a positive wire which is hooked up to the binding posts. If not, which wire is meant for the binding post (positive and negative). This will help me understand crossovers a bit more.

Welcome to AC.

The Red and White pair on the bottom right are inputs. So they would go to the binding posts, or in the case of this speaker it would go to the tube connectors.

[demarco]

Perfect! thanks for letting me know!