[Hobbsmeerkat]

Is the stranded wire the same as you send with the OB Sub kits? I had some left over from a build and my friend used it on some DIY bookshelves he was building, it worked well for him.

Same manufacturer, but 16 gauge instead of the 14 gauge supplied with the subs.

[KTS]

Thank you Hobbs

[rich blackwell]

Hello, New guy on the block here, I have some Polk RTI-8s... Not much to start with but the crossovers are in need of help or total replacement.
The caps are all out of spec or bad. I am having trouble sourcing direct replacements, and would love some advice.
I would like to know what my options are, in your opinion.
Thank You,
Rich B

[halej1]

Hello - New to the forum but have built three or four of GR research upgrades. hope to learn more as I go.

[halej1]

Woking on Warfedale Linton upgrade. Does anyone have eperience with this? Hints would be most welcome. THe first would be how to get the tweeter faceplate removed?  Thank you

[WoodGuy99]

Hello, I purchased the X_LS Encore kit.  How can I view the pictures in your post?  All I see is the text.  If I go to the gallery I do not see pictures relevant to the post.

[Hobbsmeerkat]

Hello, I purchased the X_LS Encore kit.  How can I view the pictures in your post?  All I see is the text.  If I go to the gallery I do not see pictures relevant to the post.

Unfortunately most of those old pictures were lost when the site was originally updated a few years ago, in late 2020.
you will need to contact us via email: [email protected]

You can also see the crossovers in the assembly video for the X-LS Encore on Youtube.
https://youtu.be/rIxig_9i-Iw

[ggaites]

Are these binding posts a problem? Nothing is touching, and it’s all insulated…

[richidoo]

Welcome to AudioCircle, ggaites!

The output terminal spacing is fine as long as no shorts.

You have steel (magnetic) nuts and bolts in the magnetic flux path of the inductors (lined up with the hole axis.) That's a no-no because the steel interferes with the flux path of the coil.

Steel parts also should never be in the electrical signal path. They can be used as a mechanical clamp to hold non-ferrous signal conductors together, but it's still better to not have any steel touching the circuit at all. At the XO input you have a terminal block with steel conductor strips between the attachment screws. That's bad news because the signal will actually flow through steel. So you must attach your crimp connectors as above, stacked together on the same screw using the terminal only as a mechanical clamp, not as signal conductor. On that kind of terminal block the screws might be deformed at the end so they can't be removed, so you might just ditch that terminal block. You can use terminal solder strips instead, if you like the concept. Or...

The best solution is to solder to the crossover directly, or use WAGO connectors if a temporary connection is required. Manufacturers invariably use spade connectors, but these can have problems too.

[Tyson]

I like to use a combo of zip ties and hot glue to keep parts secured to the board.  Just FYI.

[Hobbsmeerkat]

We definitely recommend avoiding anything steel/iron based. It will eat up a lot of clarity/resolution, especially considering how much, and having it all so close the one inductor is going to affect it's actual value.
At a minimum, everything should be replaced with equivalent brass nuts/bolts/screws. (if not plastic to help reduce the mass amounts of the metal which will also hurt clarity)

Ideally, the wiring to the inputs/drivers should be directly soldered to the crossovers, but if you want to keep the crossover removable, you can use tube connectors which will get you as close to directly soldered connection as is possible, without the need for a lot of metal in the signal path.

[carpenterminator]

I'm upgrading a Klipsch 600C in my home theater with a GR kit that arrived this week.  I've looked at every page on this sticky, and looked for Youtube videos (as are available for other crossover mods), and I have doubts about the one thread I found.  It showed the upgraded crossover mounted to the vertical reinforcement posts in the enclosure.  This would make it super easy to mount, but this 9"x4" "plate" would seem to amount to a baffle in the middle of the enclosure.  Am I over-thinking this?

[Danny Richie]

There is nothing wrong with mounting the crossover that way.

[Mr.Me]

Wow, I am so glad for this thread.  Listing to Danny explain the intricacies of a cross over upgrade is like listening to someone speak another language.   I catch some words here and there...but mostly im lost.

[tortoiseman2542]

Hi All!

I’m looking for a little quick help on the Strata Mini crossover. I’ve never done one myself. First pic is one of the tweeter circuits with values purposefully removed.

Second pic shows zip ties where the ofc wire can be. Second pic shows two separate ground speaker wires, one in and a separate out. Third pic would represent one long speaker wire for ground with the inductor and resistor spliced into the long ground wire.

Is pic two or three correct? 









Thanks!
Robert

[oldwiz]

Hi, new to the forum but I've been a hifi enthusiast for many years.  I recently scored a pair of nice AV123 Strata minis at the Seattle Goodwill.  It took me a while to find an amp that could run these and I eventually got a Sony TA-N80ES power amp along with a Sony TA-E9000ES pre.  All well and good and the minis sounded great.  The other day I had them turned up pretty loud  (Rolling Stones "Aftermath" album) and suddenly both channels went out.  The midrange and tweeters on both left and right are out.  The woofer on the left is very faint and one of the right is distorted.  I checked the amp and pre with other speakers and they are fine so the minis are the problem.  Pulled the left speaker apart and checked the individual drivers.  The woofer and midrange were fine so I suspect there is an issue with the crossover?  How does one access the crossover on these?  It looks like the only way is to remove subwoofer amp and dig out the dampening insulation.  Does anyone have a schematic for these crossovers?  I might as well recap them with Sonicaps while I've got them out.     

[Danny Richie]

Hi, new to the forum but I've been a hifi enthusiast for many years.  I recently scored a pair of nice AV123 Strata minis at the Seattle Goodwill.  It took me a while to find an amp that could run these and I eventually got a Sony TA-N80ES power amp along with a Sony TA-E9000ES pre.  All well and good and the minis sounded great.  The other day I had them turned up pretty loud  (Rolling Stones "Aftermath" album) and suddenly both channels went out.  The midrange and tweeters on both left and right are out.  The woofer on the left is very faint and one of the right is distorted.  I checked the amp and pre with other speakers and they are fine so the minis are the problem.  Pulled the left speaker apart and checked the individual drivers.  The woofer and midrange were fine so I suspect there is an issue with the crossover?  How does one access the crossover on these?  It looks like the only way is to remove subwoofer amp and dig out the dampening insulation.  Does anyone have a schematic for these crossovers?  I might as well recap them with Sonicaps while I've got them out.   

There is a rear panel that can be removed revealing the crossovers.

It sounds like you might have been over driving them and fried some resistors.

[corndog71]

Hi All!

I’m looking for a little quick help on the Strata Mini crossover. I’ve never done one myself. First pic is one of the tweeter circuits with values purposefully removed.

Second pic shows zip ties where the ofc wire can be. Second pic shows two separate ground speaker wires, one in and a separate out. Third pic would represent one long speaker wire for ground with the inductor and resistor spliced into the long ground wire.

Is pic two or three correct? 






Thanks!
Robert

Three.  Just like the schematic.

[oldwiz]

OK, so, to get the crossover out of the AV123 Strata mini you have to remove the sub-woofer amp panel on the back, then reach in and unscrew the crossover panel from the wall of the wood enclosure.  There are four small phillips wood screws.  It's awkward but the screws come out fairly easily.  Once the crossover board is loose you can desolder the wiring connections and pull it out.  It's a fairly complex network with seven caps, five inductors, and three resistors.  There's a rubber pad glued to the back of the PCB which can be removed in one piece if you use a heat gun and take it off slowly.  One of the resistors, a 0.3 ohm. was indeed fried on my left channel.  Probably the same for the right.  I'm replacing all three resistors with Mills, three of the film caps with Mundorf and Solens (2.7, 6.8, and 24 uF), and there is a 180 uF electrolytic also being replaced.  The rest of the caps I will check with an LCR meter.

Other crossovers I have rebuilt in the past:  Klipsch K-horns, Klipsch LaScalas, Klipsch RF-7s, Polk Audio 7B, Polk Audio 5B