Crossover assembly 101

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Captainhemo

Re: Crossover assembly 101
« Reply #160 on: 24 Aug 2019, 09:38 pm »
I’m about to replace my sonicap platinum by pass caps, on my x-overs with some MIFlex copper ones and I want to make sure I’m doing it correctly. I have 2 matched pairs, I' putting  one match pair  on the tweeter circuits and the other matched pair on the Mids, is this correct?

Yes, if you  have  2 pairs, that's the way to go

jay

tubav

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Re: Crossover assembly 101
« Reply #161 on: 24 Aug 2019, 09:45 pm »
If the main tweeter cap is 1.5uf, what is best value for a bypass cap. Thinking of trying the Miflex copper. Thanks.

AKLegal

Re: Crossover assembly 101
« Reply #162 on: 25 Aug 2019, 12:55 am »
If the main tweeter cap is 1.5uf, what is best value for a bypass cap. Thinking of trying the Miflex copper. Thanks.

1.5uf is a pretty low value. You are probably better off just replacing the cap with a 1.5 uf MiFlex.

Tyson

Re: Crossover assembly 101
« Reply #163 on: 25 Aug 2019, 04:06 am »
Bypass caps should never be larger than .1uf

Gearguy

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Re: Crossover assembly 101
« Reply #164 on: 24 Nov 2019, 03:27 am »
I hope this is the right place to request assistance. I test wired just the tweeter portion, but no joy when tested. Should the tweeter portion work without the woofer crossover components?




Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
« Last Edit: 26 Nov 2019, 01:51 pm by Gearguy »

mboxler

Re: Crossover assembly 101
« Reply #165 on: 24 Nov 2019, 02:34 pm »
I hope this is the right place to request assistance. I test wired just the tweeter portion, but no joy when tested. Should the tweeter portion work without the woofer crossover components?




Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

Yes it should work on it's own.  Can you post the schematic?  Looks like a series resistor, followed by a two pole high pass filter, followed by an L-pad.  Can't figure out what looks like a capacitor in parallel with one of the L-pad resistors, though.

What do you mean by no joy? 

Mike

Gearguy

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Re: Crossover assembly 101
« Reply #166 on: 24 Nov 2019, 02:56 pm »
Thanks Mike. No joy = it doesn't work! I suspect I did something wrong but haven't figured it out yet.

S Clark

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  • measurement? We don't need no stinkin measurement
Re: Crossover assembly 101
« Reply #167 on: 24 Nov 2019, 03:01 pm »
The circuit looks continuous to the tweeter.  Have you hooked the tweeter up straight to a source ( preferably with a cap in line for protection) and played a low volume signal to it?  I'd check to make sure the driver is good. 

mboxler

Re: Crossover assembly 101
« Reply #168 on: 24 Nov 2019, 03:13 pm »
Thanks Mike. No joy = it doesn't work! I suspect I did something wrong but haven't figured it out yet.

Bummer!  Was hoping it just sounded bad.  When I test a crossover, I use a resistor in place of the driver.  I apply a sine wave (say 2000hz) at the input and measure the output.  If zero, measure voltages across the other series components until I find the problem.

Mike


Gearguy

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Re: Crossover assembly 101
« Reply #169 on: 24 Nov 2019, 03:17 pm »
Yes, I did check that the tweeter is good. I will use test leads w/alligator clips and will try again to build this in test mode.

** updated 27 Nov. - Got the test leads and tried again. It worked correctly, so now I'll build it for real.

Thanks!
« Last Edit: 27 Nov 2019, 10:24 pm by Gearguy »

S Clark

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Re: Crossover assembly 101
« Reply #170 on: 24 Nov 2019, 03:45 pm »
OK, it looks like    +  resistor--cap----l-------resistor--------- tweeter
                                                        l           l cap l       l
                                                     coil                      resistor
                                                        l                           l
                        -    -------------------------------------------- tweeter

It's a second order x-over with a bit of lift on the high end... I think.  Your idea of building it with test leads is a good one. 
I'd call Danny first thing Monday if you can't get it working. 

Danny Richie

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Re: Crossover assembly 101
« Reply #171 on: 24 Nov 2019, 10:52 pm »
It looks correct.

Also, no need to add heat shrink on the components. That wire wiring is tinned already and won't oxidize. Use it everywhere you use a connecting wire.


birkbott

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Re: Crossover assembly 101
« Reply #172 on: 26 Nov 2019, 09:43 pm »
For the X-LS Encore I did my best to copy what was above, does this look ok?



birkbott

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Re: Crossover assembly 101
« Reply #173 on: 26 Nov 2019, 11:50 pm »
Also how do I order more of the solid core copper wire that you use?

mlundy57

Re: Crossover assembly 101
« Reply #174 on: 27 Nov 2019, 12:14 am »
Just call Danny

Danny Richie

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Re: Crossover assembly 101
« Reply #175 on: 27 Nov 2019, 12:19 am »
For the X-LS Encore I did my best to copy what was above, does this look ok?

It's not pretty, but it looks correct.

birkbott

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Re: Crossover assembly 101
« Reply #176 on: 27 Nov 2019, 11:19 am »
It's not pretty, but it looks correct.

Story of my life! Thanks

birkbott

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Re: Crossover assembly 101
« Reply #177 on: 4 Dec 2019, 08:56 pm »
I have a follow up question:
Once I have everything secure to the board, I heard mention of using silicone to lock everything in place. Is that just regular silicone that you buy at the hardware store? Or is there something else that should be used?

And is is a good/bad idea to silicone the solder joints as well to reinforce them to the board? Or no?

Peter J

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Re: Crossover assembly 101
« Reply #178 on: 4 Dec 2019, 09:06 pm »
If you have it, hot glue is another way to go, but then I have no love for silicone caulk... another story.  I wouldn't worry about the wiring too much, I'll sometimes use really small zip ties to secure wires.

Danny Richie

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Re: Crossover assembly 101
« Reply #179 on: 4 Dec 2019, 09:22 pm »
I just use a little Silicon under the inductors, but Hot glue works well too and dries much faster. So I have been using hot glue the most lately. And you can put it around the edges of everything after all is wired and done.