[SteveRB]

This is one of my favorite V builds. I really like the side panels. Nice work 

Thanks, that's encouraging.

The plans are available for anyone else to use if they want. There are a couple dimensions I would change if I were to start again, But overall I am very pleased.

[gregfisk]

SteveRB,

Your V's are looking great! I'm an all out modern look guy, but I have to tell you those are clean and elegant and you hit the classic look perfectly! Nice job

Greg

[SteveRB]

Not meaning to highjack another thread, Danny commented on my plans to build a substantial base for these speakers:

ME: There is a more substantial base planned for the V!. I'm not too comfortable inserting the threads for the spikes in the 3/4" base. Thinking an 1.5" thick base with an over sized foot print about 2"-4" all the way around. And they will be bolted together.

DANNY: That's a good idea.

That being said,as time is precious for me right now, my focus is to get these built and get the cones burning in... The grills, amp boxes and bases are second priority.

[SteveRB]

Quick question:

should I pre drill holes for all the speaker mounting screws? if yes, what diameter bit works best?

Took half the afternoon off as there is sun in the sky...!

Thanks

[ebag4]

Quick question:

should I pre drill holes for all the speaker mounting screws? if yes, what diameter bit works best?

Took half the afternoon off as there is sun in the sky...!

Thanks

I do and did for my V1 build.  I use a bit that is slightly smaller than the shank of the screw.  I would be very leery of not drilling a pilot hole first, you will have to put too much pressure on the screw driver/drill and stand a greater possibility of slipping and sending the screwdriver right through the cone of the driver.

Best,
Ed

[srb]

I would be very leery of not drilling a pilot hole first, you will have to put too much pressure on the screw driver/drill and stand a greater possibility of slipping and sending the screwdriver right through the cone of the driver.

And with that in mind I would always use hex socket screws.
 
Steve

[ebag4]

And with that in mind I would always use hex socket screws.
 
Steve

Right, and fortunately Danny sends Torx screws (along the same lines as hex) with his kits.

[srb]

Right, and fortunately Danny sends Torx screws (along the same lines as hex) with his kits.

Yes, I should have said hex socket or Torx screws.  I've seen a few accidents with Phillips screws even though the builder said they were being very careful.
 
Steve

[SteveRB]

I have put a driver through a cone myself before...

Not today tho.

Holes are drilled and last coat of paint is drying. I may even be able to do the final veneer ing tonight in the kitchen before my wife gets home.

[SteveRB]

Any tips for getting the saw dust off the speaker surrounds?

Isopropyl? Water? Compressed air?

[Danny Richie]

Any tips for getting the saw dust off the speaker surrounds?

Isopropyl? Water? Compressed air?

If you use a punch to mark the holes then remove the woofer to drill the holes....

I'd just use water on the surround (damp rag), but don't get it on the cone. Blow the cone off with compressed air if you have it.

[Guy 13]

Actually, depending on the type of metal that you use, you will effect the values of the inductors. I would stick with some type of wood.

Hi Danny and all Audio Circle members.

The above make me think that the xover for my N3
I purchased about a year ago are made of a copper plate
on which the inductors sit directly on it.

That`s not good!

I will change that.
Maybe put a wood spacer between the plate (PCB) and the inductors?
My only problem is that the xover is already install in the enclosure
and the only way I can get at it, is via the M130 driver holes.

I will get the finished enclosures tomorrow,

I will see tomorrow how I will tackle that problem.

Guy13

[Guy 13]

I do and did for my V1 build.  I use a bit that is slightly smaller than the shank of the screw.  I would be very leery of not drilling a pilot hole first, you will have to put too much pressure on the screw driver/drill and stand a greater possibility of slipping and sending the screwdriver right through the cone of the driver.

Best,
Ed

Hi Ed and all Audio Circle members.

On my very first build, the V1,

I did not use pilot holes (Unexperienced me !)
and what had to happen, did happen.

My screw driver slip and went right thru the rubber surrounding
of the subwoofer.

Lucky me, I was born on a Friday 13.

Would you believe me if I tell you that you can`t see the hole,
look as if the rubber surrounding as heal it self.

I am now building a new V1 enclosure with my old V1 drivers.

The previous V1 enclosures where built by a Vietnamese cabinet maker
and the pair of V1 enclosures costed me two years ago the ridiculous
amount of 275USD/pair.

Now I am building the enclosure all by myself and the wood, screws, glue, sand paper, etc...
Up to now, it`s amounting to less than 100USD for the pair.

Of course I will send pictures, but not before it`s completed,
 
because those enclosures look like the work of an amateur with both of his hand filled with clumsy thumbs...

Guy 13

[Guy 13]

Right, and fortunately Danny sends Torx screws (along the same lines as hex) with his kits.

Hi ebag4 and all Audio Circle members.

Most of the time, I use medium size Robertson head screws,
because I rarely have problem with them.

Hex and Torx might be better, but I have tons of Robertson screws...

Guy 13

[Guy 13]

If you use a punch to mark the holes then remove the woofer to drill the holes....

I'd just use water on the surround (damp rag), but don't get it on the cone. Blow the cone off with compressed air if you have it.

Hi Danny and all Audio Circle members.
That`s exactly what I did today...

Guy 13

[SteveRB]

ok,

we're getting close to putting all the pieces together. I need a little help:

How to attach the sides to the skeleton?

Ideally I would like to avoid any sign of hardware; however, I am a novice woodworker with less than ideal shop conditions so lining up dowels may be tricky. Small L-bracks on the upper baffle and screws through the woofer boxes may be acceptable. Also, not sure if I should rely on screws and gaskets (silicon) or if I should use proper construction adhesive and just permanently adhere the pieces...

any guidance would be appreciated.  Thanks.


ps - not going to stop this thread until I get 5000 views...!

[ebag4]

I glued the sides to the center section and used dowels to help ensure a solid connection, no issues a couple of years later.  Here is my build thread showing the dowels being installed (about half the page down):

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=79985.20

Good luck!
Ed

[Danny Richie]

And you can run screws from the inside of your sub panels into the sides.

[stevenkelby]

I have something like these to transfer dowel centers:



http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-4-Inch-2-Inch-Transfer/dp/B00004T82N

Just drill into the frame/baffle to a little over half the depth of the dowel, put that metal spike in, line up the side panel and press down, it marks where you have to drill into the side panel.

I used a couple dowels at top and bottom, then lots of screws through the sub boxes as Danny says. No glue for me yet, not 100% sure that I won't want to take the side panels off before it's 100% finished.

On a related note, my side panels are 1.5" BB ply and they don't sit dead flat against the full length of the baffle(s). They touch at top and bottom but there is up to 1/16" gap in some places.

My cabinet/baffles are dead flat but the side panels are a little bowed.

Not sure what to do, maybe silicon sealant is best to take up the gap? Was considering some thin weather striping between side panels and cabinets.

[PDR]

And you can run screws from the inside of your sub panels into the sides.

This is what I did, along with glue.

I also drilled and countersunk (then filled) a screw through the side of the hole for the Co-ax to the side panel.