V1 - build (photos on page 7)

SteveRB · « **Reply #20 on:** 26 Sep 2012, 03:01 pm »

Home Depot had a sale on clamps.

stevenkelby · « **Reply #21 on:** 26 Sep 2012, 03:09 pm »

Wow I'm building mine with only 4 clamps, 1 glue joint at a time. Going to take a while!

I got my flat pack from Elemental designs and the coaxial driver hole radius was 1mm too small! Had to get it routed out another 1mm so it the driver could fit in.

I'm sure yours will be finished before mine, looking good!

jparkhur · « **Reply #22 on:** 26 Sep 2012, 03:26 pm »

FYI, the Paudio group changed the driver size without telling Danny, thus most have the wrong hole cut on their V1 and Super V. I ran in to the same problem with a guy from Canada, not good.. Sand paper... the only quick way unless you can hold a router perfect.

JP

jparkhur · « **Reply #23 on:** 26 Sep 2012, 03:27 pm »

Also, someone remind me what the difference between the Super V and V1 are???????

JP

stevenkelby · « **Reply #24 on:** 26 Sep 2012, 03:39 pm »

Thanks, JP, first I've heard of that!

I had them clamp the piece to a bench, then screw a rough piece of scrap in the middle of the cutout, find the exact center of the cut out (on the piece of scrap) put a screw in there and make an arm out of flat scrap the perfect length to run the router around and remove an extra 1mm. Turned out perfect.

Quote

Also, someone remind me what the difference between the Super V and V1 are???????

Just the coaxial mid/tweeter and crossover.

As I understand it the V1 used the P Audio BM12CXA

http://www.loudspeakersplus.com/product/BM12CXA/P-AUDIOBM12CXA/

Super V uses the BM12CX38

http://www.loudspeakersplus.com/product/BM12CX38/P-AUDIOBM12CX38/

CX38 has a bigger LF voice coil and more power handling apparently.

nickd · « **Reply #25 on:** 26 Sep 2012, 04:08 pm »

JP,

Danny also modifys the tweeter back cover on the BM12CX38. He has the center of the back plate cut out so the Super V is a full range O.B. Bi-Pole. The crossover point is lower due to the larger tweeter (2") on the Super V too.

I have not heard the two side by side, I would guess the lower mids are better with the Super V.

SteveRB · « **Reply #26 on:** 26 Sep 2012, 04:15 pm »

Quote from: jparkhur on 26 Sep 2012, 03:27 pm

Also, someone remind me what the difference between the Super V and V1 are???????

The info above is correct. I had this description from Danny:

"From 200Hz and down they are the same speaker. They have the best bass response of any pair of speakers that money can buy. They also have the same sensitivity. But the Super-V surpasses it in detail levels and resolution. The Super-V also has an edge in transparency."

"...Both drivers get a mod that opens up the back side of the tweeter to make them full open baffle, but the drivers are different.
Here are the V-1 drivers: http://www.loudspeakersplus.com/product/BM12CXA/P-AUDIOBM12CXA/
Here are the Super-V drivers: http://www.loudspeakersplus.com/product/BM12CX38/P-AUDIOBM12CX38/"

SteveRB · « **Reply #27 on:** 27 Sep 2012, 05:14 pm »

Danny,

Question regarding wire length from servo amp and xo:

I am planning out where to mount the xo and how to deal with the amp in my living room. In previously threads I believe you have recommended that the leads from the amp to the servo woofers is no more than 36". Can I mount the xo parts in the box with the amp (shielded from the amp) -- resulting in 36"-48" leads from the xo to the woofer and tweeter?

This would mean that all of my input cables from my main amp go to the servo/xo box. From there, the 8 leads all go to their speaker terminals.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #28 on:** 27 Sep 2012, 05:48 pm »

Quote from: SteveRB on 27 Sep 2012, 05:14 pm

Danny,

Question regarding wire length from servo amp and xo:

I am planning out where to mount the xo and how to deal with the amp in my living room. In previously threads I believe you have recommended that the leads from the amp to the servo woofers is no more than 36". Can I mount the xo parts in the box with the amp (shielded from the amp) -- resulting in 36"-48" leads from the xo to the woofer and tweeter?

This would mean that all of my input cables from my main amp go to the servo/xo box. From there, the 8 leads all go to their speaker terminals.

Here is what works best.

Use the wiring that is on the plate amp to run to the SpeakOn connector. That keeps you from having to splice wires.

Mount the crossover behind the coaxial driver. This gets it away from the amp. Then use the tube connectors for that connection. And by doing this you only need one pair of tube connectors on each speaker.

SteveRB · « **Reply #29 on:** 27 Sep 2012, 06:37 pm »

thanks Danny,

Do you have any pictures of the back side of the terminal connections on the speaker?

Given my plans, I will have to build in a lip in-front of the lower servo woofer.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #30 on:** 27 Sep 2012, 07:09 pm »

Quote

Do you have any pictures of the back side of the terminal connections on the speaker?

You want to see the back side of the tube connectors?

Or the back side of the SpeakOn's?

SteveRB · « **Reply #31 on:** 27 Sep 2012, 07:31 pm »

either really,

just like to see the back side of the mdf piece they are mounted on. Your plans do not have a block there for terminals.

Please see mark up on the plans for additional mounting piece:

Danny Richie · « **Reply #32 on:** 27 Sep 2012, 08:05 pm »

Yep, just a little strip across the back.

SteveRB · « **Reply #33 on:** 27 Sep 2012, 08:14 pm »

Quote from: Danny Richie on 27 Sep 2012, 08:05 pm

Yep, just a little strip across the back.

...and the driver still slides through there?

Danny Richie · « **Reply #34 on:** 27 Sep 2012, 08:17 pm »

Quote from: SteveRB on 27 Sep 2012, 08:14 pm

...and the driver still slides through there?

Oh yeah. No problem. You just tilt the driver slightly and slide it right by it.

And proportionally it is actually smaller than your drawing.

SteveRB · « **Reply #35 on:** 27 Sep 2012, 08:43 pm »

makes sense -- i'll mock it up this week.

One more quick follow up: I assume I also have to drill through the baffle front-back and up-down to route the servo and singal cables?

Danny Richie · « **Reply #36 on:** 27 Sep 2012, 08:47 pm »

Quote from: SteveRB on 27 Sep 2012, 08:43 pm

makes sense -- i'll mock it up this week.

One more quick follow up: I assume I also have to drill through the baffle front-back and up-down to route the servo and singal cables?

Yes, check these pics: http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=98348.msg991316#msg991316

SteveRB · « **Reply #37 on:** 27 Sep 2012, 08:49 pm »

perfect.

thanks.

That's what I was thinking -- it's good to see photos.

SteveRB · « **Reply #38 on:** 28 Sep 2012, 08:22 pm »

I have been gluing up one or two pieces each evening this week. The CNC cut pieces are butt joining better than expected. After removing the clamps I rub a small amount of fine wood filler over the seams. So far I have assembled the boxes that surround the servo woofers, laminated the co-axe baffle pieces, laminated the servo baffle panels (my own addition), and joined the co-axe baffle to it's base piece.

This weekend I plan on a little light sanding, giving the round over on the back of the baffles, and assembling the majority of the skeleton.

I also plan to hit up the local paint supply shops to test out a few textured paints (I do like the recent photos of the Home Depot truck bed liner.)

I am a little on the fence about adding a slight 45° routered edge around the co-axe baffle where the baffle meets the side panels. By 'slight' I mean 2-3mm. I think it would give a nice detail and shadow line separation between the materials. It may also look like hell -- we'll see.

I'll post a few more photos soon.

PDR · « **Reply #39 on:** 28 Sep 2012, 08:36 pm »

I used the router on the co-ax baffle and the sub box when I built mine.
If you look closely you can see where I set the round over bit a little deep to
give the back of the baffle a little detail.
I also went the textured look so I can give you a preview of what it looks like on mine.

Perry