black and white

versus rider · « **Reply #60 on:** 6 Jun 2011, 06:22 pm »

no cannot find it. not under anything, audio rennaissance, mr liang, isyx.com, nada.

aha, typed in audio renaissance 845/300B and et voila

brian t · « **Reply #61 on:** 6 Jun 2011, 06:54 pm »

ok try this www.audiodiy.cn

brian t · « **Reply #62 on:** 6 Jun 2011, 06:55 pm »

www.lsyx.com let me know if your interested in buying one and i can give you more info.

brian t · « **Reply #63 on:** 11 Jun 2011, 02:17 pm »

brian t · « **Reply #64 on:** 11 Jun 2011, 02:19 pm »

Ric have a proper brace fitted now its rock solid no movement any where now.

brian t · « **Reply #65 on:** 11 Jun 2011, 02:20 pm »

brian t · « **Reply #66 on:** 11 Jun 2011, 02:28 pm »

major gains in bass definition and it appears to go down lower in frequency, windows rattling now with the brace and magnet coupling bolts fitted so i presume its channeling the bass down into the floor more effectively, notes start and stop quicker and reverb on recordings is easier to hear.cheers ric this is a big improvement.

studiotech · « **Reply #67 on:** 11 Jun 2011, 03:03 pm »

Looking good! How did you attach the brace to the baffle? I need to figure that out for my support leg too. I was thinking pocket jig and screws.

Greg (not Ric)

brian t · « **Reply #68 on:** 11 Jun 2011, 03:17 pm »

brian t · « **Reply #69 on:** 11 Jun 2011, 03:21 pm »

used one of these long wood bits and drilled from the back of the brace and stopped about an inch from the end and put in wood screws with a very long screw driver shaft its not easy trying to drill straight with one of those bits but as the brace is 2 inch thick i had a fair margin of error.

Ric Schultz · « **Reply #70 on:** 12 Jun 2011, 01:33 am »

Very nice! Did you listen with and without the magnet bolts? I would have made the brace so it would lay right against the back of the magnets and epoxy there. That would make sure the magnets are not twisting when playing.....of course, it would make it harder to change drivers. You can see how crazy I am.

Next, get rid of the binding posts, use a larger gauge coil, better cap, remove any push on connectors (if you have any), felt around the full range and tweet and put EAR SD40AL on the woofer and full range baskets.

You could try time aligning but you would have to set the mid and tweet back......this would not be easy now. The best way to do this is to make a cheap prototype and stagger the drivers till it sounds/measures correct and then make the serious baffle that has the drivers mounted for the stagger. Some slant the panel back for time alignment.

Always more to do!

brian t · « **Reply #71 on:** 12 Jun 2011, 06:03 am »

you are a slave driver ric! yep will adjust spikes for tilt back and damp bass driver basket have disconnected tweeter at the moment as its just not needed am surprised at the high frequency response of this driver most full range drivers i have used sound to dull to me not this one and it is so transparent, am going to try a zobel network on this driver see how that sounds. yep have tried listening several times with and without bass driver magnet bolts as it only takes a few seconds to swap around and the difference is night and day have also done it on one speaker only to compare instantly with the other speaker and the bass is much tighter and midrange detail improves.

versus rider · « **Reply #72 on:** 12 Jun 2011, 08:26 am »

I like that bracing idea and it will kill two birds with one stone. I will be able to brace my 15" Alpha and the 6.5" audax in OB and it will serve as a support for my 400Hz tractrix horn that is propped up at the moment with a length of pvc tube. I like the adjustable bolt idea brian but I think I will make a circular piece of wood the same size as the magnet with the bolts holding it in place, that will give it a more even pressure. There is always something else to try, will I ever get them paint finished at this rate?

brian t · « **Reply #73 on:** 12 Jun 2011, 10:03 am »

yep i will do something along those lines going to make some alluminium plates up for the drivers especially the tangband to get better vibration transfer as that driver has a foam backed name plate so its not ideal at the moment.

Ric Schultz · « **Reply #74 on:** 13 Jun 2011, 06:51 pm »

A fairly small baffle like you have for the Alpha probably only gives you bass into the high 40s. If you want some seriously better and deeper bass then you have the option to bi-amp. Get a Behringer DCX24/96 and even if you do not mod it, it in conjunction with a cheap 100watt plus solid stage amp can get you bass into the low 30s. You have the amp connected directly to the driver (no coil) and you have the ability to not just extend the bass but equalize the bass for flat frequency response at listening position. This gives mucho greater clarity. Also will sound much clearer as the high frequency amp does not have to do bass and there is not as much back EMF to deal with. Bi-amping is most always a plus.

versus rider · « **Reply #75 on:** 13 Jun 2011, 08:05 pm »

Quote from: Ric Schultz on 13 Jun 2011, 06:51 pm

A fairly small baffle like you have for the Alpha probably only gives you bass into the high 40s. If you want some seriously better and deeper bass then you have the option to bi-amp. Get a Behringer DCX24/96 and even if you do not mod it, it in conjunction with a cheap 100watt plus solid stage amp can get you bass into the low 30s. You have the amp connected directly to the driver (no coil) and you have the ability to not just extend the bass but equalize the bass for flat frequency response at listening position. This gives mucho greater clarity. Also will sound much clearer as the high frequency amp does not have to do bass and there is not as much back EMF to deal with. Bi-amping is most always a plus.

yep what he said, I run a DEQX with 130w Rotel for the Alpha's, my baffle is very much like yours with not much around the woofers. Does excellent bass that some have said " defy the laws of physics "

this is an early picture before the horns were added, looking at them now they looked better like this

brian t · « **Reply #76 on:** 13 Jun 2011, 10:43 pm »

yes i used to have a dcx24/96 and for all the flexibilty it gives you its just not transparent to my ears, yes your right there isnt much bass its swings and roundabouts as to whats best. one of the reasons this system is so good is its simple minimum of components for the signal to go through, firm believer in less is more.this is the most detailed system i have ever had by miles. i will try my krell fbp200 amp on the bass drivers and see what that sounds like but its no where near as detailed as my valve amp. i think if i want more bass i would get some s/hand rel subs and incorporate them into this design but thanks for the advice. i have found over the years that trying to get a wide bandwidth system just causes more problems than it solves. and i know its psycho acoustic but it tends to make the system sound slow. nice design on those baffles .

Ric Schultz · « **Reply #77 on:** 14 Jun 2011, 03:21 am »

You are right the Behringer sucks stock (now starting to mod them again for people).....but even stock for bass it is not so bad. I am not suggesting putting it in front of the Tang Band.....just the bass. Of course, you can just passively bi-amp with your Krell and that will probably give better sound too....and you could also build a simple bass boost circuit for the bass to put in front of the bass amp.

I too am a purist and prefer the least amount of stuff in the signal path. However, if you seriously mod the Behringer you can get some outrageous sound even in the midrange and highs.

If you think you hear details now.....then hardwire your speaker wires directly to the Tangband....ditch the binding posts and wires running through the panel. Now you will really be hearing the driver! And for more bass detail, then hardwire a second speaker wire from the amp directly to the xover coil and use the other end of the coil wire and solder it directly to the eyelet on the Alpha that contains the voice coil wire. Yup. now we are talking detailed!

versus rider · « **Reply #78 on:** 14 Jun 2011, 06:34 pm »

that old pro behringer in the picture was just something I was messing around with until I got the DEQX. not a Behringer but an Australian made piece of kit made by DEQX, there is no comparison.

http://www.deqx.com/

brian t · « **Reply #79 on:** 1 Jul 2011, 05:02 pm »

my other half wanted something a bit more funky so this is the outcome