Ebag4's Bottlehead Stereomour 2a3 Amplifier Build

Ericus Rex · « **Reply #40 on:** 26 May 2011, 03:57 pm »

Quote from: ebag4 on 26 May 2011, 01:04 pm

Hi Eric, I was wondering how long it would take for someone to ask how th pillars are connected . No, they are not mortised, I don't have the tools to do that. Instead I used the tools I do have, in this case a table saw. Since I didn't have any way to cut a corner into the pillars I simply notched them straight across and then cut the corners off of the frame at 45 degree angles, this allows the notched pillars to fit over a flat face on the corners of the frame if that makes sense.

Very smart, Ed! If those trannies are as heavy as I imagine you may consider reinforcing the miter/pillar junction with an internal brace that's screwed into the pillar. Otherwise, the weight may end up pulling the mitered sides out of the pillars.

Very sweet!

ebag4 · « **Reply #41 on:** 26 May 2011, 06:32 pm »

Quote from: Ericus Rex on 26 May 2011, 03:57 pm

Very smart, Ed! If those trannies are as heavy as I imagine you may consider reinforcing the miter/pillar junction with an internal brace that's screwed into the pillar. Otherwise, the weight may end up pulling the mitered sides out of the pillars.

Very sweet!

Great idea Eric, thanks for the recommendation. I had actually considered gluing braces inside the corners for strength when I was putting it together but it came out well enough that I didn't think it would be necessary. The concern that I had was with the pillars, they are a pine dowell veneered with Sapele. My concern was with potential expansion of the pine splitting the veneer, I hadn't considered screwing the pillars instead of gluing them to the frame. By adding the braces in the corners I can mount the pillars with screws and if they split I have the option of removing them and replacing with something solid instead of veneered.

Thanks again!

Ed

ebag4 · « **Reply #42 on:** 26 May 2011, 11:27 pm »

I really liked Eric's idea of bolting the legs so I went ahead and glued the brace in, drilled for the bolts and mounted the legs. I am very happy with the way this turned out. Here are a couple of pics (if the amp looks a little swayback that is because it is, I haven't mounted my mounts for the chassis yet).

Yes, the right rear brace is smaller than the other three, this is because that is the corner where the IEC socket resides and there is less room in that corner.

Best,
Ed

wushuliu · « **Reply #43 on:** 27 May 2011, 06:23 am »

Cool!

eclein · « **Reply #44 on:** 27 May 2011, 08:03 am »

Very neat looking and a 10+ on the cool factor. Great job

ebag4 · « **Reply #45 on:** 27 May 2011, 01:54 pm »

Thanks guys, I am pretty happy with it so far. I glued in the rails for the chassis last night so no more swayback effect. I still have to build the transformer cover and a small decorative plate to cover the unused holes in the front (locations for the input selector and volume control which I didn't use) and then give it a few coats of poly. I may be able to finish it this weekend.

Best,
Ed

JakeJ · « **Reply #46 on:** 27 May 2011, 05:45 pm »

Sa-weeet!! Really looking forward to seeing the finished product.

Pez · « **Reply #47 on:** 27 May 2011, 06:26 pm »

Ed this is some nice DIY pr0n you are creating! Can't wait to see the final result.

ebag4 · « **Reply #48 on:** 27 May 2011, 07:10 pm »

Thanks guys, it's a simple design but I like where it is heading.

Pez, I will do my best feed your fetish

.

Best,
Ed

Pez · « **Reply #49 on:** 28 May 2011, 02:56 am »

Yes! And do it quick otherwise I might have to build another amp myself.

Ericus Rex · « **Reply #50 on:** 28 May 2011, 11:55 am »

Quote from: ebag4 on 26 May 2011, 11:27 pm

I really liked Eric's idea of bolting the legs so I went ahead and glued the brace in, drilled for the bolts and mounted the legs. I am very happy with the way this turned out. Here are a couple of pics (if the amp looks a little swayback that is because it is, I haven't mounted my mounts for the chassis yet).

Yes, the right rear brace is smaller than the other three, this is because that is the corner where the IEC socket resides and there is less room in that corner.

Best,
Ed

That's now a rock-solid design. Good work, Ed!

ebag4 · « **Reply #51 on:** 28 May 2011, 05:56 pm »

Quote from: Ericus Rex on 28 May 2011, 11:55 am

That's now a rock-solid design. Good work, Ed!

Thanks Eric, I appreciate the recommendation.

This is probably a case of way too much information in too small an increment for this type thread but I bought a new table saw blade and it is fantastic, I should have bought one years ago, it would have saved me a ton of frustration. Because of the new blade I was able to shave a thin board off the face of the curly Maple I have been working with (something I could have never done with my other blade). I will use it in the transformer cover. Here are a couple of build pics of the cover, still a bit of work to do to complete it.

Best,
Ed

bigdirty · « **Reply #52 on:** 28 May 2011, 06:03 pm »

Wow! this is really coming along. beautiful wood work, Im excited to see the finished product.

JakeJ · « **Reply #53 on:** 28 May 2011, 06:15 pm »

Capital see, double-oh, el!! (Read that as COOL) The transformer cover is a very nice touch and the curved top in sapele is a nice tie to the corner posts. Very tastefully done, sir!

Still looking forward to seeing the completed amp especially next to the speakers it will drive.

roymail · « **Reply #54 on:** 28 May 2011, 08:55 pm »

me too!

eclein · « **Reply #55 on:** 28 May 2011, 09:24 pm »

The Transformer Cover is a nice idea ED!!!!!!

Nick77 · « **Reply #56 on:** 28 May 2011, 09:56 pm »

Ed, excellent work as always.

Now tell us what blade to buy.

ebag4 · « **Reply #57 on:** 28 May 2011, 10:46 pm »

Thanks guys!

I had a few issues trying to clamp the top of the cover to the base, I finally found a solution (I hope) using ratcheting straps. I will know better tomorrow how that works out.

Jake, actually the top is the curly Maple as are the ends of the cover, the front and back are veneered with Sapele. I hope that gives a nice look and is not too much, I sometimes have an issue with that, using too much of two different species when a small accent of one or the other would make a classier looking project.

Keith, you were probably joking but in case you wanted to know what blade I bought it is a Dewalt 60 tooth Model #: DW3215PT, nothing fancy, picked it up at Lowes. It says it has a smaller kerf (not so certain it does) but what is does do is a really nice job of cutting. It has very little wobble which is also something the marketing blurb on the front of the package mentioned. It would probably not be a big improvement to you guys who have nice tools already but I was in dire need of a new blade. I was still using the blade that came on my 50's vintage Craftsman table saw when I bought it used for $60 a couple of years ago (no, the blade wasn't 50's vintage

).

More pics of a completed cover tomorrow (hopefully), then on to final sanding and finishing!

Best,
Ed

Nick77 · « **Reply #58 on:** 28 May 2011, 11:07 pm »

Ed i was totally serious, i need a new blade also. thanks.....

Pez · « **Reply #59 on:** 28 May 2011, 11:11 pm »

I assume you're gluing the straight price of wood down to the curved piece. I would recommend spritzing the straight piece with a spray bottle. That way the wood should form much easier and keep it's shape.