Sealed Type N3 Building

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Ron

Re: Sealed Type N3 Building
« Reply #40 on: 4 Aug 2010, 11:04 pm »
Thanks guys for the compliments. Really enjoyed building the N3S's and love their sound. These have all the performance upgrade options ( Sonicaps and Platinum bypass caps, Mills resistors, and No-Rez sound damping treatment). I know their new owner is going to be very happy with them.

 Danny, the tube connectors are great!  Easy to install and they provide a better connection than most audio input terminals I have previously used. I really like them.

 The difference in the N3S parts kit vs the N2X parts kit is not that much more but the total cost is going to depend on what performance upgrade options you go with. Also, the N3S uses a larger enclosure than the N2X so the build cost is going to be more too. One advantage of a MTM vs a MT is that it normally has higher sensitivity and better power handling capability.

Roy - I will try to work up a thread with pictures on veneering similar to what Danny posted for crossovers. Might take me some time to do it though.

Ron

Re: Sealed Type N3 Building
« Reply #41 on: 4 Aug 2010, 11:18 pm »
 Danny is correct that the N3 loaded in a TL enclosure is even better than the N3 sealed with its excellent low bass capability. Hope to eventually build a pair of the N3 TL towers.

Ron

Re: Sealed Type N3 Building
« Reply #42 on: 6 Aug 2010, 02:31 pm »
 Finally finished the grills this morning for the N3S's. Attached are a couple of pictures of the speakers with the grills on. I'm pleased with how they turned out.








NeilT

Re: Sealed Type N3 Building
« Reply #43 on: 6 Aug 2010, 03:40 pm »
Love the grills Ron, How did you attach the fabric, spray glue, Scotch 77?
Neil

corndog71

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Re: Sealed Type N3 Building
« Reply #44 on: 6 Aug 2010, 04:12 pm »
 :thumb:

Ron

Re: Sealed Type N3 Building
« Reply #45 on: 6 Aug 2010, 04:19 pm »
Neal - I use 3M Super 77 spray adhesive. Works quite well. The grill frame is constructed out of 1/2" thick MDF.

Ron

NeilT

Re: Sealed Type N3 Building
« Reply #46 on: 6 Aug 2010, 04:29 pm »
Thanks Ron, that is what I used on my OB7 grills, but never heard it mentioned in any other thread. I was hoping it was the right stuff.
Thanks again for the posts and pics.
Neil

mlbrand

Re: Sealed Type N3 Building
« Reply #47 on: 7 Aug 2010, 06:05 pm »
Great job on the N3S speakers Ron! I am still enjoying mine.

Ron

Re: Sealed Type N3 Building
« Reply #48 on: 7 Aug 2010, 07:02 pm »
 Thanks Mlbrand. I really enjoyed building them. The gentleman who bought them will be using them in a setup similar to yours as side speakers. I think they sound extremely good. With a good subwoofer they really sound awesome. The N3 parts in a TL tower should sound awesome too.

Saturn94

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Re: Sealed Type N3 Building
« Reply #49 on: 13 Aug 2010, 03:59 pm »
Hi Ron.

I haven't been here in awhile and just saw your latest build.  Looks great.

I'm still on the search for upgrades for my ADS L1290s (I'm the guy that come over to your place to hear the N2X and A/V-3).  As you can tell it's taking quite awhile!

Hope you are doing well.

Ron

Re: Sealed Type N3 Building
« Reply #50 on: 13 Aug 2010, 07:19 pm »
 Thanks for the compliment Saturn99. Yes, I am doing well.

The N3S's have a similar sound to the N2X you heard, but they have a much higher sensitivity and wider dynamic range than the N2X's. In my opinion, the N3S's sound even better.

django11

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Re: Sealed Type N3 Building
« Reply #51 on: 15 Aug 2010, 03:14 am »
Very nice build!  I'm curious as to the size of the radius on the corners and also how you wrap the veneer around it?  Vacuum press,  hot iron, paperbacked veneer? :scratch:  Do you veneer the top and bottom first?

Ron

Re: Sealed Type N3 Building
« Reply #52 on: 15 Aug 2010, 11:01 am »
 The radius on the corners is 1/2". I use a single piece of 10 mil, paper backed veneer to wrap around the sides and front. Also, I usually cut the piece of veneer approximately 1/2" oversize so that it can be lined up on the cabinet and then trimmed later. I like to use a heat sensitive glue by the brand name of Heat Lock. You can use other adhesives, but I like using the heat senstitive type. Simply roll on the glue with a foam type roller or brush on to the back side of the veneer and on the surface of the cabinet. Normally like to use two(2) coats on both surfaces. When it dries, simply iron it on with a clothes iron set at medium heat (midrange on the temperature setting). Best to use a piece of cotton cloth ( like an old tee shirt) between the iron and the veneer to prevent scorching the veneer. Line up the veneer and start at one end and work your way down. Trim the veneer with a laminate or veneer trimmer or a utility knife so that it is flush with the endge of the cabinet.
I normally like to veneer the the sides and front first and then the top, bottom,and back in that order. When finished, lightly sand the veneered cabinet with 320 or 400 grit sandpaper, then wipe throughly with a tack cloth to remove the dust. Prior to applying a stain or just a polyurethane finish  I suggest using Minwax brand or similar Prestain for a more uniform wood tone finish.
Hope this suggestion was helpful to you.

dvenardos

Re: Sealed Type N3 Building
« Reply #53 on: 15 Aug 2010, 10:44 pm »
You can use the iron on method with any PVA glue, don't know if it works as well as Heat-Lok, but worked well with me.

grimace

Re: Sealed Type N3 Building
« Reply #54 on: 21 Feb 2011, 12:18 pm »
Hey Ron,

I'm working on my first build and have read through as many posts as I can find.  Was wondering if you ever got around to doing the 'Veneer 101' post?  That would be awesome to see.  Thanks for all of the tips.  My first project is an X-LS Encore kit, but I'm already hooked and know that I'll be doing a ton more. 

Also, where do you get the grill cloth?

- Matt

Ron

Re: Sealed Type N3 Building
« Reply #55 on: 21 Feb 2011, 01:09 pm »
Hi Matt,

 I haven't forgotten about trying to do a Veneer 101 post, but just haven't had the time lately to do so. Maybe in the near future.

 The X-LS Encore is an excellent choice for your first build project. If you need help, I will be glad to offer suggestions. I am sure other AC members will be glad to offer tips too. Be sure to post some pictures during the building process for others to see.

 Parts Express is a good source for grill cloth.

Ron

grimace

Re: Sealed Type N3 Building
« Reply #56 on: 21 Feb 2011, 05:37 pm »
Thanks Ron.  I've got the basic parts cut and glued up.  I'll shoot some pics and start a new thread on my progress...am sure many will be able to learn from my mistakes.

Appreciate the help.

Groundzero

Re: Sealed Type N3 Building
« Reply #57 on: 27 Feb 2011, 01:28 am »
Hi Ron,

Thanks for all the info you posted so far. I'm going to be trying my hand at veneer for the first time soon on some A/V-Os. I was wondering how much Heat Lock I should buy? I don't want to run out but also don't want to buy a gallon and have a ton of it left over. I think the surface area is similar to 2 pairs of N3S for reference.

Thanks,
Kristian

Plund

Re: Sealed Type N3 Building
« Reply #58 on: 27 Feb 2011, 04:51 am »
Hi Ron,

Thanks for all the info you posted so far. I'm going to be trying my hand at veneer for the first time soon on some A/V-Os. I was wondering how much Heat Lock I should buy? I don't want to run out but also don't want to buy a gallon and have a ton of it left over. I think the surface area is similar to 2 pairs of N3S for reference.

Thanks,
Kristian


Groundzero,
When I Veneered my N3 TL's I did run out of Heatlock...the bottle that I had (1 pint?) wasn't quite enough.  I finished my N3 project using Titebond II with the same iron-on method.  To be honest I didn't notice a significant difference between using the Heatbond and the Titebond II. :wink:

Pete

Groundzero

Re: Sealed Type N3 Building
« Reply #59 on: 27 Feb 2011, 05:08 am »
Thanks Pete! I'll go with the gallon then since it is $35 compared to $28 for two pints, and the gallon is 4x as much. Now I'll just have to build some more speakers to use it up :thumb: