DIY Dodd Buffer

TrungT · « **Reply #241 on:** 23 Apr 2010, 11:51 pm »

Mariusz
Just put some orange oil on it and it will look good (light wood color)

Mariusz · « **Reply #242 on:** 24 Apr 2010, 12:34 am »

Quote from: TrungT on 23 Apr 2010, 11:51 pm

Mariusz
Just put some orange oil on it and it will look good (light wood color)

http://howardproducts.com/orange.htm

it looks so good that I am considering finishing it with "salad bowl safe" natural oil. Makes it safe to lick it up, down and between those red buttons.

gld · « **Reply #243 on:** 24 Apr 2010, 01:08 am »

OH MAN it's gettin deep here!

gary

TrungT · « **Reply #244 on:** 24 Apr 2010, 01:10 am »

" lick it up, down and between those red buttons"

hummm.... I may have to take a closer look at my Dodd remote control

sl_1800 · « **Reply #245 on:** 24 Apr 2010, 01:47 am »

Sounds like I need a remote kit sooner than I thought.

lonewolfny42 · « **Reply #246 on:** 24 Apr 2010, 07:24 am »

Gary....

Nice job with the Plexi case work....

Have a ...

usp1 · « **Reply #247 on:** 24 Apr 2010, 04:38 pm »

This is so tempting. Would this be a good project for a rank newbie ( read that as no pcb soldering or other electronic assembly experience).

rajacat · « **Reply #248 on:** 24 Apr 2010, 05:19 pm »

I'm considering buying this kit but I'm not sure how to determine if a passive will work in my system.

I have modified/restored Heathkit W5m monoblocks and currently using a Bolder SB3 in conjunction with a Mhdt Constantine DAC. If I bypass my current pre (AVA T7) and use the SB3 for volume control I can get sufficient volume at about 70% of full volume with the digital vol. control and I can get a reasonably high vol @100%.
However I'm a little worried about headroom with various source materials. I'm not sure how to interpret the various input/output specs in relation to my system and if SB3/Mhdt will have enough balls for adequate volume and headroom. I believe that the Heathkits were originally designed to be used with an active pre.

Any advice will be appreciated.

-Roy

srb · « **Reply #249 on:** 24 Apr 2010, 06:05 pm »

Quote from: rajacat on 24 Apr 2010, 05:19 pm

I'm considering buying this kit but I'm not sure how to determine if a passive will work in my system.

It's actually an active buffer, and will provide better impedance matching than a passive linestage, but the gain is 1, so your concerns about volume and gain still apply.

Steve

gld · « **Reply #250 on:** 24 Apr 2010, 06:20 pm »

usp1, this kit is for anyone who can use a few basic handtools and a soldering iron. I have done the hard soldering for you. You can see for yourself how easy it is by having a look at the DIY page on my site doddaudio.com. You'll have fun building it!

Gary

gld · « **Reply #251 on:** 24 Apr 2010, 06:26 pm »

Roy, thats a tough one to answer. It will be different in every system. I am currently running a SB Duet thru a Wolfson DAC on batteries and I have more than enough system gain for all of the amps I have ever had in my system. The modded HK's should still be able to be driven to full output with around 1.2-1.5 volts and most equipment now provides at least 2 volts output. I would think that you should be able to achieve very good volume levels and headroom without issues. I have no problems in my system at all, and that's with many kinds of amps.
Gary

usp1 · « **Reply #252 on:** 24 Apr 2010, 08:14 pm »

Quote from: gld on 24 Apr 2010, 06:20 pm

usp1, this kit is for anyone who can use a few basic handtools and a soldering iron. I have done the hard soldering for you. You can see for yourself how easy it is by having a look at the DIY page on my site doddaudio.com. You'll have fun building it!
Gary

So could i start with the basic kit...no chasis or anything nice...make sure I can assemble everything and get it running before I invest in the remaining add ons? That way I risk $325 and if that works out well then I go for the rest. Sound reasonable?

Mariusz · « **Reply #253 on:** 24 Apr 2010, 08:35 pm »

Quote from: usp1 on 24 Apr 2010, 08:14 pm

So could i start with the basic kit...no chasis or anything nice...make sure I can assemble everything and get it running before I invest in the remaining add ons? That way I risk $325 and if that works out well then I go for the rest. Sound reasonable?

Makes sense.
I am rookie myself and the most challenging IMO would be the assemble of the remote control board.
But since Gary was kind enough to do the dirty work for me, all I have to do now is to finish the wooden transmiter enclosure with my own, natural oils.

gld · « **Reply #254 on:** 24 Apr 2010, 09:35 pm »

YEP! You can do it!

Gary

ebag4 · « **Reply #255 on:** 25 Apr 2010, 12:00 am »

Gary,you have a PM.

Thanks,
Ed

sl_1800 · « **Reply #256 on:** 25 Apr 2010, 01:53 pm »

Quote

This is so tempting. Would this be a good project for a rank newbie ( read that as no pcb soldering or other electronic assembly experience)

Gary's web site shows pics of how everything should look when completed. If you pay attention to the pics and just compare your work to the pics on his site then a real knowledge of electronics is not much of a requirement. I have built a few kits but I found this one to be extremely simple.

usp1 · « **Reply #257 on:** 25 Apr 2010, 03:27 pm »

Thank you all...for the words of encouragement. Gary's instructions seem quite simple and I will be ordering a kit. It may have to wait for assembly though until I can get some contiguous free time.

gld · « **Reply #258 on:** 25 Apr 2010, 03:46 pm »

usp1 That's great!

I am sure that when you get the kit if you have any questions or need any help, I bet that there are some AC members and myself that can help out with anything that may come up.

gary

Mariusz · « **Reply #259 on:** 26 Apr 2010, 02:55 am »

It took me about two hours to finish all of the boards (I am sure it can be done in half an hour for someone with experience).
All went pretty smooth ....... but ......

I screwed up the possition (wrong side) of the 10 pin dual-row header on the inputs board. I do have de-soldering iron with pump but solder points are so close to each other that it is possible for me to screw it up.

Q- what is the best way to go about it
(temperature? etc. I've Radio Shack Digital Soldering Station with presets and adj. temp. )

thanks in advance

Mariusz