$175 Class D amp--120 wpc

vinylb · « **Reply #3140 on:** 29 Mar 2012, 12:35 am »

Holy mackeral...sounds like you been thru some challenges Mike. Appreciate you sharing your experience with me. With my CDA-254l kit and parmetal 20x case I had to "jimmy" a slot for the IEC and seperate fuse holder and had to go back to Radioshack or HDepot...dont recall to get those slide on clips to attach to those flat prongs/tabs found on the IEC and fuse holder. As for the grounding, I took Tom's advice and attached the purple wire from transformer to ground connection on IEC.

I'll have to wait for tomorrow, hopefully when it arrives to see what I have ahead of me.

Neville

mboxler · « **Reply #3141 on:** 29 Mar 2012, 03:49 am »

Cool. Here's another shot of the back panel. As you can see, the IEC ground attaches to the nut holding the IEC to the panel. It's hard to tell where Tom's tech attached the "purple" wire, but it was not to this IEC nut.

Dry fit things together...I'll be glad to answer any more questions.

Mike

krikor · « **Reply #3142 on:** 29 Mar 2012, 01:13 pm »

Should probably make this a sticky.

Quote from: MarkSim on 27 Aug 2011, 01:32 am

Greetings, I've recently just ordered a couple of ClassDAudio amps, was wondering if my wiring plan is correct... The intention is to run each SDS board off a Connex 500R SMPS as monoblocks using the XLR balanced inputs, while retaining "flick of a switch (or two switches in this case)" capability to run as two stereo amps off the RCA inputs

At present, the case I'm planning to use is rather small and may not allow space for a 2nd XLR, so may forego the R channel XLR connection option. Would like to check with the more experienced folks here whether this is feasible or advisable?

Cheers all, and hello! <my first post 8-P>

mboxler · « **Reply #3143 on:** 29 Mar 2012, 02:16 pm »

Thanks krikor...

I KNEW I saw that diagram somewhere in the vast thread.

I know I'm a novice, but the diagram seems to prove my point. The supplied toggle switch is a DPDT, when a DPST would have been fine. The problem, as I see it, is that the top two connections are wired to the amp. If you look at the picture of the back of the chassis, the up position is labeled BAL, the bottom RCA. Seems to me that with the switch in the top position, the connection to pins 2 and 3 would be closed (ON), and the amp would be in unbalanced (RCA) mode.

What am I missing???

Mike

krikor · « **Reply #3144 on:** 29 Mar 2012, 04:37 pm »

I think the position of the switch is inverse to the top/bottom of the connections. When you flip the switch up it moves the slider inside the switch down, being on the other side of the fulcrum from the lever/toggle. Flip up to engage the bottom contacts, flip down for the top contacts.

If you are unsure, just hook up a meter and check continuity between contacts with the two switch settings.

vinylb · « **Reply #3145 on:** 29 Mar 2012, 04:41 pm »

My kit arrived in USPS large priority box, which got me curious. Well it turns out the case was "flattened" and arrived in parts which is a really good way to prevent shipping costs and damages to it. Parts for the enclosure and the amp and power supply were inside the "flattened" case. Everything was very well packed, including the enclosure parts. Here are pics showing the enclosure.

Bottom enclosure - note holes ready for installation of kit

Top enclosure

rear "connector ready" plate. Eric Clapton cd used to size the plate...thx Mr Slowhand

front plate with 2 led holes at bottom right

I really like my Par-Metal 20x case but this is on a much higher level....better be for the price

vinylb · « **Reply #3146 on:** 29 Mar 2012, 05:03 pm »

Here are the other parts:

Bottom left 2 packets are screws. Bottom right is the led's and housing for led's. Top right packet is enclosure feet.

mboxler · « **Reply #3147 on:** 29 Mar 2012, 06:09 pm »

Quote from: krikor on 29 Mar 2012, 04:37 pm

I think the position of the switch is inverse to the top/bottom of the connections. When you flip the switch up it moves the slider inside the switch down, being on the other side of the fulcrum from the lever/toggle. Flip up to engage the bottom contacts, flip down for the top contacts.

If you are unsure, just hook up a meter and check continuity between contacts with the two switch settings.

I'm pretty sure I tried that, but I plan on taking the cover off and trying it again. Could very easily have had the switch upside down when I hooked up the meter.

Thanks, Mike

vinylb · « **Reply #3148 on:** 29 Mar 2012, 07:37 pm »

Mike, did you use thermal paste on the underside of the "pontoons"? I am referring to the heatsinks that almost touch the bottom of the enclosure.
I could have it touch if I add a washer or two but not sure if there will be any benefit to it.

thx
Neville

mboxler · « **Reply #3149 on:** 29 Mar 2012, 07:56 pm »

My SDS-224 doesn't have the same heatsink. I doubt that the case would become part of the heatsink, but an e-mail to Tom may be in order. Let us know!

Mike

vinylb · « **Reply #3150 on:** 29 Mar 2012, 11:00 pm »

I found some old computer fans that had 2 and 3pin female connectors so I can re-use those for the led and gain pots. Just put the rear plate on and was trying to attach the transformer and hit a wall - I am going to have to get right angle female spade plugs. It's pretty tight between the rear plate and the power supply board. Plenty of room between rear plate and amp board.

While I am out I am going to have to get something similar to led to solder on the external switch.

for J1 & J2 I am going to use the same connections found on computer fans.

My Antek AN4442 has 4 leads for 12v and thinking of using that to power a fan I am going to attach near the heatsink. Any idea on how I get that wired to a fan? Thinking 2 orange leads joined together and the same for the 2 brown leads, how do I know which is neutral and live ?

Neville

mboxler · « **Reply #3151 on:** 29 Mar 2012, 11:27 pm »

First off...I'm an idiot. With the toggle switch INSTALLED in the case, and the toggle switch in the down position (RCA), the top two connectors measure zero ohms (you were right krikor, I must have measured it backwards when it was out of the case). This makes sense...the switch cannot be mounted upside down as long as you wire the top two connectors to the amp. When does one graduate from novice in this hobby anyway?

Neville, you must be referring to the flag disconnects I mentioned earlier. Pretty tight! As mentioned earlier, you may need to grind them down a little more to clear the caps. I know I did.

My transformer doesn't have 12V outputs, so can't help you there. Are you sure you need a fan?

Mike

vinylb · « **Reply #3152 on:** 30 Mar 2012, 12:20 am »

Mike now I understand it, terminology threw me off.
I need to pickup 16ga cable and if they don't have right angles
I'll grind them down.

Did you have any clearance issues with speaker posts?

I probably don't need a fan but figured why not since
My maggies are going to put this amp to work.
I googled the transformer and found I only need to use
The Orange leads for 12v.

mboxler · « **Reply #3153 on:** 30 Mar 2012, 01:57 pm »

Sorry for the late response. Retirement party for a friend at work last night. Good food, open bar...you get the picture.

I had no issues with the speaker posts. The ones near the PS had to make a quick turn...I used cable ties to bind the four wires together.

I hope we are talking about the same thing on the IEC connection. Here is a picture of what I bought.

You'll notice the metal connection is recessed. I grinded the excess plastic down to the metal, gave me a little more clearance. You could even grind down the metal female connect a little to get more clearance. I didn't grind the male connectors in the IEC. I used 14 AWG wire into these. Probably overkill, and why the ground connection was hard to bend onto the IEC nut, but...

I also found a good way to solder the wire into the flag connector. If you don't want to crimp (I tried, ruined a flag connector, and had to buy a whole new package, since it came with only 3). I'll post a picture of my solution if you are interested.

Mike

vinylb · « **Reply #3154 on:** 30 Mar 2012, 02:26 pm »

How is the hang over?

yes that is exactly what I am looking to get. If you got time, you can PM me your pic.
thx

mboxler · « **Reply #3155 on:** 30 Mar 2012, 02:45 pm »

Feeling good! My wife has the camera at her shop...I'll get you the picture ASAP. It also occured to me that, if you have a little room between the PS and the tranny, you could drill out the standoff holes used for the PS (1/8" bit?) . That would allow you to push it away from that back plate a little more. As you can tell, it's a little tight back there.

Mike

Barry_NJ · « **Reply #3156 on:** 30 Mar 2012, 03:14 pm »

Mike,

Please post the pic here for the benefit of all

Thanks, Barry

mboxler · « **Reply #3157 on:** 30 Mar 2012, 03:42 pm »

Here it is...

As you can see, the plastic was ground down enough so I could push it further into the IEC, and now it clears the cap. Before this mod, the disconnect was pushing into the cap.

The flag disconnect I bought has plastic that stops the wire from going out the other side. I grinded that small piece of plastic off, and allowed 1/4" of bare wire to stick out thru this opening. This allowed me to heat the end of the wire, apply solder to the bare wire, and the solder sucked into the crimping hole enough to bond the disconnect with the wire. I cut off the excess wire, and had a great connection. Hopefully you can see the shiny solder (the flash blurred it a little). This picture also shows my modified ground connection.

Hope this helps. Some else will probably have a better solution, but this was the best I could come up with.

Mike

vinylb · « **Reply #3158 on:** 30 Mar 2012, 05:34 pm »

Radioshack and HDepot dont carry any right angle connectors. What has become of RShack? Going to try to hit up Frys and if I still come up empty I am going to drill new holes for the ps board.

thx for the pic Mike.

Now looking at wiring up the 6 lug toggle switch to J1 and J2...got me perplexed.

Barry_NJ · « **Reply #3159 on:** 30 Mar 2012, 06:31 pm »

Here's a thought, and forgive me because I don't have a board or chassis to check with. But can the PS Board be rotated 90 or 180 degrees to give more clearance to the IEC connections?