Dallas II BLH Plan

mightym · « **on:** 12 Nov 2009, 12:31 am »

Folks,

I'm getting ready to start a DIY build for the " Dallas II " BLH designed by Ron Clarke. He lost his plan copies in a 'puter crash. There are some of the documents available on the "Frugal Horn" site, but I'm led to believe there were originally 7 sheets to the plan, and I would very much like to have the full set.

I am hoping that one of you has a set squirrelled away on your hard drive,and would be kind enough to send them my way.

I believe that I can build with the copies I already have, but I would like the full set, if it can be had.

The design is specifically for the Fostex FE206E, and has a small enough size that WAF should be passable ( if it sounds good my hunny will like them ).

Thanks,
John

jrebman · « **Reply #1 on:** 12 Nov 2009, 01:42 am »

Hi John,

Sorry I can't help with the plans, but i've heard nothing but good things about this design, so I hope you'll share your build progress and results with us when it's done.

Good luck,

Jim

planet10 · « **Reply #2 on:** 12 Nov 2009, 04:33 am »

If anyone does come up with more, i'd like to put it up on FH.com

dave

mightym · « **Reply #3 on:** 12 Nov 2009, 11:37 am »

Thanks Jim,

I'm thinking positive thoughts...

Dave,
It was my intention to share with you, you da man wit da plan(s).

John

mightym · « **Reply #4 on:** 19 Nov 2009, 02:51 am »

I received a little help today, from another forum...

I'll be E-mailing the drawings to Dave so he can add to the collection.

John

planet10 · « **Reply #5 on:** 19 Nov 2009, 04:33 am »

mightym · « **Reply #6 on:** 2 Dec 2009, 02:25 am »

I received the drivers today. Now I have to get cracking and finish re-drawing the plan for 3/4" material. I'm doing the plan in Sketchup, and will be happy to share the file when it's complete. I'll try to update here as I progress on the build.

John

rjbond3rd · « **Reply #7 on:** 2 Dec 2009, 02:23 pm »

Hi mightym, I am really psyched to see your build in progress. I've never had the privilege of hearing the Dallas, but heard the Austins and they were quite amazing.

mightym · « **Reply #8 on:** 10 Dec 2009, 02:27 am »

Ok,

I sat down and drew the plan up in Sketchup. I did the best I could, and I'm seeking comments. I increased the depth front to back by ~2/10ths" ( everything was rounded to the nearest 16th" ). The 2/10ths" was derived by the fact that I was going from .7" material to .75", and was an approximation. I didn't increase the height because it's already 48" tall, and I wanted to stay with commonly available sheet goods.

The drawings I worked from were vector diagrams giving X/Y coordinates for points on the drawing. Ron's note in the label allowed that all angles were 45deg., unless noted. I used this information to help make decisions about where to place some of the panel intersections.

I did quite a bit of reading regarding the plans on both Diyaudio, and the fullrangeforum. I paid close attention to Ron's comments.

I believe that this will "do the job".

I am, however a relative noob to this DIY stuff. If I've made a glaring error, well then I'd rather someone point it out than build something that won't work.

I'm including a screen capture, and will make the SKP file available if you PM me. I plan to E-mail the SKP file to Dave at P10 as well, but have no intention of asking him to check my work, as I understand it he's got enough on his plate already.

John

planet10 · « **Reply #9 on:** 10 Dec 2009, 02:33 am »

It looks good...

dave

mightym · « **Reply #10 on:** 17 Aug 2010, 02:45 am »

Well after a gestational period of over 9 mo. I have finally started to do the actual work of building. This weekend, I took advantage of the A/C being on while I was available to work in the shop, and drew the plan out full size on some Kraft paper taped down on a work table. These things are going to be bigger than I imagined!

I tried to take a photo of my work, but the pencil lines are too faint to show in the shots. This isn't a problem, as I intend to take a sharpie to them so I can use it to lay-out both sides of the horn on the inside of the side panels. I'll try again on the photo after I Sharpie them up. ( sorry I can't resist a pun, even a bad one )

What I am currently having is an intense internal debate about the relative merits of using a brad nailer, or strictly clamping up my assembly. Another topic of internal debate is the use of PL premium, or something similar, as opposed to the Polyurethane moisture cured glue I normally use. I like the PU glue because it's strong, gap fills, ( for my less than expert joinery ) and seals all in one go.

I'm breaking the drivers in on an OB I cobbled up. Plans are to put it to use later on another project. If any of the people who were following this last year ( or anyone else for that matter ) have opinions Re: the above internal debates, I would sure like to see it from another perspective, make sure I'm not wearing blinders. I;m thinking about making a couple of test joins with both types of glue, both with and without brad nailing, then destroying them to see what holds better. Mainly, I want to use the brad nails to hold the horn bits together while the glue sets. The outer casing parts will be veneered, and are easy to just clamp anyway. Just slows the process down when you run out of clamps, and have to wait for the glue to set!

Hopefully I'll have some Pic's tomorrow.

John

Mariusz · « **Reply #11 on:** 17 Aug 2010, 03:03 am »

Also looking forward to your build John.

rjbond3rd · « **Reply #12 on:** 17 Aug 2010, 05:30 pm »

Pix! Pix! This will be a very exciting build.

mightym · « **Reply #13 on:** 17 Aug 2010, 07:22 pm »

Thanks for " tuning in " Robert, and Mariusz. I got home early and have been waiting for the distaff half to come find me a sharpie ( she says she can walk right to it, but can't tell me where it is....). I put a couple of pics in the gallery, I'll try to link them here.....

Top, the pattern, with a CD case for size reference. Bottom, the garage system ATM with the OB break-in panels running SRV to work those drivers. I've got about 10 hrs on them ( I hate to go off and leave the stuff on....) KT-88 SET, playstation, home-made interconnects, and White-lightnin' moonshine speaker cables ( also home-brewed ).

John

PS: maybe I should post this over on Cheap and cheerful HiFi too...

rjbond3rd · « **Reply #14 on:** 17 Aug 2010, 07:40 pm »

Thank you for the pix! (What excellent taste in music you have -- same as mine...)

I look forward to seeing you make those angled cuts. I sure couldn't do those

mightym · « **Reply #15 on:** 17 Aug 2010, 08:55 pm »

According to Ron's plans, they are mostly 45Deg. See:

Check the lower right hand corner...

I may alter the angles in the first bend slightly to make the transition from board to board more smoothly ( measure the angle that bisects the join, and split it in half to cut the individual parts ). I have a couple of angle measuring/marking devices that I can use to transfer the angle to my circ. saw then I just line the saw up with a framing square and a clamp and make sawdust. I do not know what the technical term is for the devices, you can see part of them in the corner of the pic with the pattern ( one's black, the other is yellow ).

This " should " come out of 2 sheets, one for the sides, and another that's cut down to 11.04" strips. then the horn pieces are all cut from those strips.

My plan is to cut/mark the inside of the side by transferring from the pattern. Then glue the top , bottom, baffle,back, and the 2 large 45 Deg. pieces to one side. Making the balance in 2 sub assembly's that will then be glued into the previously assembled portion, lastly the other side will be added, after lining the outside of the bends with felt, running the wires, filling the voids, etc.....

Simple, right?

John

mightym · « **Reply #16 on:** 17 Aug 2010, 09:03 pm »

Quote from: rjbond3rd on 17 Aug 2010, 07:40 pm

(What excellent taste in music you have -- same as mine...)

Are you referring to the CD case in the pic of Brubeck's Legacy "Take Five", or the SRV I mentioned breaking the drivers?

I like a lot of different types of music....

rjbond3rd · « **Reply #17 on:** 17 Aug 2010, 10:22 pm »

Hi John, I love Brubeck and SRV equally. Lately I have been listening non-stop to Bill Charlap Trio.

Your order of assembling sounds more clever than what I imagined. I just assumed each piece would go in one at a time but the sub-assembly sounds like a better way.

Assuming the cab is laying on its side, are you at all concerned about the final "height" of all those pieces? I imagine a little sanding would make the last piece (the side) go on pretty tight. I just might have to give this a try at some point!

mightym · « **Reply #18 on:** 18 Aug 2010, 12:17 am »

Quote from: rjbond3rd on 17 Aug 2010, 10:22 pm

Your order of assembling sounds more clever than what I imagined. I just assumed each piece would go in one at a time but the sub-assembly sounds like a better way.

Assuming the cab is laying on its side, are you at all concerned about the final "height" of all those pieces? I imagine a little sanding would make the last piece (the side) go on pretty tight. I just might have to give this a try at some point!

Here's a shaky pic of the emboldened lines in the pattern.

The writing is notations about where the felt will go, and the voids to fill.

Robert,
The sub-assembly route is to allow me to maintain as close as possible the horns internal dimensions. My material differs slightly in size from the 18mm Ron designed for (.70" Vs .71875" for my 23/32" material). I'll have some stock to make shims with on hand at assembly, if needed.

The width of the horn parts ( really all the parts between the sides ) is constant. I can't handle a 4X8 sheet of material on my table saw. Instead I will use a "Saw Board", which is a kind of straightedge which allows me to produce repeatable cuts. Careful measuring is still required, but it can be done singlehanded.

John

andrewbee · « **Reply #19 on:** 18 Aug 2010, 09:26 pm »

Quote

The width of the horn parts ( really all the parts between the sides ) is constant. I can't handle a 4X8 sheet of material on my table saw. Instead I will use a "Saw Board", which is a kind of straightedge which allows me to produce repeatable cuts. Careful measuring is still required, but it can be done singlehanded.

To make all internal pieces the same width use the sawboard and cut them ~ 3/16" oversize and then set your TS and run them through... all will be the same width.
The ~3/16" should take care of the blade kerf and not waste much wood.