New N3 kit (Neo series)!

Danny Richie · « **Reply #20 on:** 14 Feb 2009, 10:29 pm »

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While its not a bad match would the N3 center be a better sonic choice?

Sure, its the same woofers and tweeter. It should match very well.

mnapuran · « **Reply #21 on:** 15 Feb 2009, 05:58 am »

Doh... nice!

I couldn't wait and replaced my personal theater speakers with some Dynaudio Audience LR120+'s and C120+. May have to build some of these anyhow

EARGASM · « **Reply #22 on:** 15 Feb 2009, 04:46 pm »

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Hank · « **Reply #23 on:** 16 Feb 2009, 06:40 pm »

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Has anyone heard the A/V-3's built in this configuration and placed close to the rear wall?

tmaslar, I built my A/V-3's that way and they sounded great with only about 10" - 12" rear clearance. Ask eargasm if he will make a set of flats for you, then you can have the fun of assembly. No nails or screws needed - just glue and plenty of clamps.
BTW, eargasm, I've been using contact cement on paper-backed veneer for over 20 years without a failure - so there

EARGASM · « **Reply #24 on:** 16 Feb 2009, 06:43 pm »

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tmaslar · « **Reply #25 on:** 16 Feb 2009, 08:30 pm »

Hey Hank,

Thanks for the response. Glad to hear the A/V-3's worked well in the reverse configuration.

Tom

EDS_ · « **Reply #26 on:** 16 Feb 2009, 09:30 pm »

How well would 30 or 60 push-pull tube watts drive these things?

Anyone have the od dimensions?

Danny Richie · « **Reply #27 on:** 16 Feb 2009, 09:36 pm »

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How well would 30 or 60 push-pull tube watts drive these things?

The easy impedance load and high sensitivity make these speakers ideal for amps like that.

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Anyone have the od dimensions?

Cabinet plans are posted in my second post on the first page.

Meataxe · « **Reply #28 on:** 16 Feb 2009, 09:44 pm »

Danny, using the front port would it be necessary or desireable to reverse braces D,E,F, & G?

Very good pricing, I'm saving my pennies now so a set of three can make their way to New Zealand!

Danny Richie · « **Reply #29 on:** 16 Feb 2009, 10:29 pm »

Yes, you have to flip flop all of the internal braces that make up the transmission line in order for it to exit out the front.

William Schuchard · « **Reply #30 on:** 17 Feb 2009, 03:22 pm »

Danny, this is great. A friend recently asked me for a speaker recommendation. Having heard the GR and Neo drivers, I think these will be perfect for him.

Regards,
Bill

REY · « **Reply #31 on:** 17 Feb 2009, 06:48 pm »

Eargasm, I am interested in one of the flat packs, I sent you an email, thanks!

EARGASM · « **Reply #32 on:** 18 Feb 2009, 04:19 pm »

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woofersus · « **Reply #33 on:** 19 Feb 2009, 01:56 am »

Quote from: EARGASM on 14 Feb 2009, 05:35 pm

You can definately do that. To keep the tweeter height at 38", however, you need to reduce the height of the Bass Base. This neccessitates the enclosure being deeper. About 19" deep. Furthermore, to get the sealed MTM section to look right, IMO, you need to have it the same depth. So you get a large cavity in the back of the MTM section. 'Might be a nice place to store the remotes, I dunno...

My preference it to have the sub integrated into the same enclosure, separating the volumes internally. This gives you a much smaller footprint, about 14" deep. Of course, you could always go open baffle on the Bass Base... I tried to upload a sketch of this, but the server doesn't like me this AM.

I also want to do this with the sub integrated into the same enclosure, but I must be brain farting here - how does that lead to a smaller footprint? Aren't the basic dimensions the same based on the 1.5cu volume needed for the sub?

What I really want to do is a sealed version of this and have servo subs side mounted in the bottom portion of each. Is there any point in trying to use a high pass filter to limit <80ish material from the 5.25" drivers? Is there any sonic gains to that? Or is it really just as good to let it roll off naturally and use the crossover on the plate amp to hp the sub at 80hz?

edit: I think I realize how now - you just make the sub cavity extend upwards behind the sealed chamber for the mtm portion of the speaker. Am I right?

edit again: One more question about "footprint." What are the dimensions of the needed servo plate amp? Specifically, how much will that affect the width of the cabinet?

EARGASM · « **Reply #34 on:** 19 Feb 2009, 02:29 am »

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woofersus · « **Reply #35 on:** 19 Feb 2009, 04:34 am »

It's all good. I'm pretty sure I follow now. So how much "void" is there in the N3 TL? How much more is needed below to make 1.5cf? Also, is 8" wide enough for the plate amp to be placed on the back? Assuming it is, and the footprint remains the same as the N3 TL, how tall are we talking?

Perhaps you've already drawn up a cabinet design and these questions are meaningless. If so, feel free to tell me so.

The next question for me would be whether it would make sense to use the sealed design or the ported TM design if I'm going to hand off to a servo sub? I intend to run them full range for music, but hand off to something else at around 40hz for movies, so I'm envisioning the servo subs here as large midbass drivers essentially, although it would be nice if they would play into the 20's when fed full range for music. Would they be hard to integrate at 80 or 100hz?

EARGASM · « **Reply #36 on:** 19 Feb 2009, 04:53 am »

Removed by member.

woofersus · « **Reply #37 on:** 19 Feb 2009, 06:01 am »

Sounds great. I'm looking forward to somebody who builds sealed N3's comparing them to sealed Neo-2x's.

I think that a sealed N3 with a servo sub covering everything below ~100 will be perfect for my tastes. I love the natural sound of ribbon/planar tweeters, and I really can't stand boomy inarticulate bass. I want a pair of speakers that will get me strong coverage from 20khz+ all the way down to 25hz or so in a small package. (what with my small living room and all) If I can only get down into the low 30's comfortably with the servo subs being asked to cover all the way up to 100hz or so then that will still be fine. I'll run my receiver in pure direct mode for music and cross over to my mfw-15 at 40hz for movies.

Next I need to think about enclosures. I think the picture in the first page of the thread looks nice, but I want to figure out something a touch more interesting than a simple box.

KS · « **Reply #38 on:** 19 Feb 2009, 06:46 am »

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I want a pair of speakers that will get me strong coverage from 20khz+....

Wow, you must have young, great ears. My hearing is done at about 10khz at age 63. I still like my Neo 2X speakers very, very much.

woofersus · « **Reply #39 on:** 19 Feb 2009, 08:47 am »

Why am I still awake to answer? I don't know....

Yes, I was blessed with excellent range of hearing. Of course, attenuation in the upper frequencies (for men anyhow) is totally normal as you age, and I'm still in my upper 20's. Of course, hearing into the 20,000hz range isn't all it's cracked up to be. You'd be surprised how many noises will drive you nuts...

I do try to take good care of my ears though. I work with live sound and do some recording, and hearing damage is not only easy to get when around musicians a lot, but it can dramatically affect your ability to be effective as an engineer.