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Quote from: TurboFC3S on 6 Jul 2007, 01:21 amHey, check this out - I upped this to my gallery just for the heck of it, but want to see if this tweeter response looks right, it looks like it rolls off way before 1900hz like you guys say is the xover point. The image shows Red = miswired crossover, and Green = tweeter crossover fixed. But does that Green curve look right?What did you do to miswire the crossover? Just to make sure I didn't make the same mistake
Hey, check this out - I upped this to my gallery just for the heck of it, but want to see if this tweeter response looks right, it looks like it rolls off way before 1900hz like you guys say is the xover point. The image shows Red = miswired crossover, and Green = tweeter crossover fixed. But does that Green curve look right?
Quote from: IronForge on 6 Jul 2007, 02:35 amWhat did you do to miswire the crossover? Just to make sure I didn't make the same mistake Ha, you won't if you follow the schematic ... or if you don't build boards at 2am after a 12 pack, like I did last night.
What did you do to miswire the crossover? Just to make sure I didn't make the same mistake
It sounds fine to me, so I assume I did it right. It should be noticeable if you wired it wrong?
Is there a secret to soldering the gen II bypass caps? I just wired them the same as the capacitor they are stacked with.
Quote from: IronForge on 6 Jul 2007, 03:20 pmIs there a secret to soldering the gen II bypass caps? I just wired them the same as the capacitor they are stacked with.I solder all the bypass caps on before starting assembly of the crossover. I just bend the leads of the bypass cap and wrap it around the lead of the bigger cap, piggy-back style
That is sort of how I did it, but had the larger cap already glued to the board. It was a little of a stretch on the 75uF midwoofer cap, would you agree? I am using the erse caps with the genII bypass.
BTW, I used modelers clay instead of hot glue to attach caps to the board. It sticks enough that they stay put, but never hardens so you can move them around easily if needed. I'd guess it deadens vibration more than hot glue too, but I doubt anybody would hear a difference between the two.
Do you use the same method to attach the crossover to the interior of the OB2X cabinet? Currently mine are working, but I have not put them inside the cabinet yet, just loose on the outside.