[Vapor Audio]

Hey, check this out - I upped this to my gallery just for the heck of it, but want to see if this tweeter response looks right, it looks like it rolls off way before 1900hz like you guys say is the xover point.  The image shows Red = miswired crossover, and Green = tweeter crossover fixed.  But does that Green curve look right?

What did you do to miswire the crossover?  Just to make sure I didn't make the same mistake

Ha, you won't if you follow the schematic ... or if you don't build boards at 2am after a 12 pack, like I did last night.

[IronForge]

What did you do to miswire the crossover?  Just to make sure I didn't make the same mistake

Ha, you won't if you follow the schematic ... or if you don't build boards at 2am after a 12 pack, like I did last night.

LOL

I built them on the weekend in the morning with my father in law.  He repairs antique radios.  I fix computers.
Something old, something new.

It sounds fine to me, so I assume I did it right.  It should be noticeable if you wired it wrong?

[Vapor Audio]

It sounds fine to me, so I assume I did it right.  It should be noticeable if you wired it wrong?

You probably did do it right, but even a FR flaw that serious wouldn't be immediately obvious when listening.  You'd probably notice something not quite right, but it wouldn't jump out at you. 

[IronForge]

Is there a secret to soldering the gen II bypass caps?  I just wired them the same as the capacitor they are stacked with.

[Vapor Audio]

Is there a secret to soldering the gen II bypass caps?  I just wired them the same as the capacitor they are stacked with.

I solder all the bypass caps on before starting assembly of the crossover.  I just bend the leads of the bypass cap and wrap it around the lead of the bigger cap, piggy-back style

[IronForge]

Is there a secret to soldering the gen II bypass caps?  I just wired them the same as the capacitor they are stacked with.

I solder all the bypass caps on before starting assembly of the crossover.  I just bend the leads of the bypass cap and wrap it around the lead of the bigger cap, piggy-back style

That is sort of how I did it, but had the larger cap already glued to the board.  It was a little of a stretch on the 75uF midwoofer cap, would you agree?  I am using the erse caps with the genII bypass.

[Vapor Audio]

That is sort of how I did it, but had the larger cap already glued to the board.  It was a little of a stretch on the 75uF midwoofer cap, would you agree?  I am using the erse caps with the genII bypass.

Yea, it is a stretch on the 75uF, so I bent it's leads up right at the edge of the cap so the bypass leads wouldn't have to stretch so far.

BTW, I used modelers clay instead of hot glue to attach caps to the board.  It sticks enough that they stay put, but never hardens so you can move them around easily if needed.  I'd guess it deadens vibration more than hot glue too, but I doubt anybody would hear a difference between the two.

[IronForge]

BTW, I used modelers clay instead of hot glue to attach caps to the board.  It sticks enough that they stay put, but never hardens so you can move them around easily if needed.  I'd guess it deadens vibration more than hot glue too, but I doubt anybody would hear a difference between the two.

Do you use the same method to attach the crossover to the interior of the OB2X cabinet?  Currently mine are working, but I have not put them inside the cabinet yet, just loose on the outside.

[Vapor Audio]

Do you use the same method to attach the crossover to the interior of the OB2X cabinet?  Currently mine are working, but I have not put them inside the cabinet yet, just loose on the outside.

No, I loosely screw them to the inside panels with a layer of something squishy between the cab and the xover board.  Right now the squishy stuff I have to use are some chunks of the Parts Express Sonic Barrier 3-layer stuff.  The modelers clay wouldn't have near enough holding power to mount an xover board upright.

[Vapor Audio]

Just had to say, I am so sick of sanding!  I've went through about 20 sheets of 150 and 220 grit on the palm sander in the last 2 days.  Oh well, it'll be worth it ... the Birds-Eye Maple is looking pretty sweet!  I got one where I can start finishing, I put a layer of high-gloss tung oil down and wow!  It really pops.

[RAW]

Sounds great post some pictures when you can.Like to see the birdseye