[guest1632]

Hi all,
 aa
Well, almost done with the amp. Buttt! My soldering stationn's iron died. So, any recommendations? If you have a price, good.

I'm also looking if possible for an iron with a shorter tip to grip. If not, ok. will accept what I can get Although I can't see the pics, went online, and looked. Saw Weller, Hakko, Pace, Etson, American Beauty--resistance soldering, metcal, and a few others that come to mind.

Ray

[samplesj]

I've got a cheap CSI station ($35).  If you spend $50 you get a free multimeter [a cheapie, but its FREE].

Because its so cheap I've seen a few recommendations for it around here and other audio sites

http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/7307

[Scott F.]

That CSI is the same one I use. One of the local guys (Steve K....or was it Sturgus?) turned me onto it. I've had mine for over two years now and it works perfectly. Great part about it being cheap, it let me spend a few extra bucks on tips, a cleaner, and a couple of heating elements in case the stock one burns out.

Highly recommended. I give it a   out of five.

[jrebman]

Ray,

I've owned and used several Wellers over the years, plus one hakko, and all eventually died -- usually a short in the handle that fried the transformers or heat regulation circuitry.

I've been using one made by a company called Solomon -- relatively unknown in the US, but pretty popular overseas and in Canada.  I think the one I got was either an SL-10, or maybe even an SL-30, if they even make such a model.  I bought mine from a Canadian company, A1-parts.com, but I wouldn't recommend them -- they sound like a one-man operation that is somewhat disorganized, take forever to fill orders, and are generally very poor at communications.

I found a company in Illinois that sells the SL-10 -- which appears to be similar, or possibly even identical to the one I have:

http://store.cs-sales.net/sl10.html

There are a lot of tips available for it, and one thing I really like is that the temperature control is a long slide control across the front of the base that is very good for tactile marking with hi-marks, tactile dots, braille, or whatever.  Many of the temperature controlled stations today have digital readouts and membrane switches not exactly the most accessible.

It's been a rock solid iron, but as you know, I usually use my American Beauty resistance station as I just find that the easiest to work with -- once you get the hang of it.  Of course, it is pretty pricey, and probably should only be considered if you plan a whole lot of projects.

I know there are some less expensive resistance stations, but I don't recall their names right now, but the Smith-Kettlewell Technical File web pages should have that information.

Good luck,

Jim

[sturgus]

Ray this is the best buy out there in terms of price. I have one and it works great. I bought this one on the recommendation of John Hillig of Musical concepts. He uses one on his work bench and loves it.
Sturgus

Small review
http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/5777

http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/6438

[guest1632]

Ray this is the best buy out there in terms of price. I have one and it works great. The one that Scott has is a little better than this but a little more expensive. I bought this one on the recommendation of John Hillig of Musical concepts. He uses one on his work bench and loves it.
Sturgus

Small review
http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/5777

http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/6438

Hi, CSI has that one for $39. They also have there own for $34, which Scott was recommending. They also have a digital one, which won't do me any good. heheh.

Ray

[guest1632]

Hi, I called CSI, and talked to this guy Nolan. A 10 degree variant up and down is quite a bit. So then I ask him about the Solomon versus there brand, does the Solomon have the tray for the iron built on the base? He asked if I was on the site, and I told him Yes, but I was visually impaired. He immediately hung up. Go Figure.

Ray
Ray this is the best buy out there in terms of price. I have one and it works great. I bought this one on the recommendation of John Hillig of Musical concepts. He uses one on his work bench and loves it.
Sturgus

Small review
http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/5777

http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/6438

[guest1632]

Hi, I called CSI, and talked to this guy Nolan. A 10 degree variant up and down is quite a bit. So then I ask him about the Solomon versus there brand, does the Solomon have the tray for the iron built on the base? He asked if I was on the site, and I told him Yes, but I was visually impaired. He immediately hung up. Go Figure.

Ray
Ray this is the best buy out there in terms of price. I have one and it works great. I bought this one on the recommendation of John Hillig of Musical concepts. He uses one on his work bench and loves it.
Sturgus

Small review
http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/5777

http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/6438

Hi Sturgus,

Does that Solomon iron detach from the base, or is it hardwired in there?

I was looking at there list of extras, and it said the iron is hardwired in? So how do you replace the element if it burns out?

Ray

[guest1632]

Hi, I called CSI, and talked to this guy Nolan. A 10 degree variant up and down is quite a bit. So then I ask him about the Solomon versus there brand, does the Solomon have the tray for the iron built on the base? He asked if I was on the site, and I told him Yes, but I was visually impaired. He immediately hung up. Go Figure.

Ray
Ray this is the best buy out there in terms of price. I have one and it works great. I bought this one on the recommendation of John Hillig of Musical concepts. He uses one on his work bench and loves it.
Sturgus

Small review
http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/5777

http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/6438

Hi Sturgus,

Does that Solomon iron detach from the base, or is it hardwired in there?

I was looking at there list of extras, and it said the iron is hardwired in? So how do you replace the element if it burns out?

Ray

I called back, and talked to this guy Tony. He told me they get a lot of prank calls. I told him I was visually impaired, and I do solder, so please get that back to Nolan. So that situation is fixed.

Ray

[sturgus]

Ray the holder for the iron is atached to the base. Depending where you sit the base you can mount the holder to either side. It is also hardwired to the base. As far as changing the element I think you would have to take the iron apart.
Sturgus

[TomS]

A couple questions for those with the cheapo CSI station when using just for circuit boards (through holes, not SMT):

- What tips do you recommend besides the stock one, just for pcb's soldering - the usual black gates, resistor replacements, etc. ?  I figure if I buy 3 or 4 more tips I'll get to the $50 freebie deal, but wasn't sure what to get.

- Does it make any sense to go to the lead free version?  It looks quite different.  I'm using Star Sound's silver bearing solder on "standard" pcb's but will always have a mix of silver and non-silver for projects.  Just stick with the basic version and use it for both?

TIA,

Tom

[guest1632]

A couple questions for those with the cheapo CSI station when using just for circuit boards (through holes, not SMT):

- What tips do you recommend besides the stock one, just for pcb's soldering - the usual black gates, resistor replacements, etc. ?  I figure if I buy 3 or 4 more tips I'll get to the $50 freebie deal, but wasn't sure what to get.

- Does it make any sense to go to the lead free version?  It looks quite different.  I'm using Star Sound's silver bearing solder on "standard" pcb's but will always have a mix of silver and non-silver for projects.  Just stick with the basic version and use it for both?

TIA,

Tom

Hi Tom,

On both stations, there are some find tips. The CSI for $35 is a 40 watt version, versus a 70watt version. The new lead-free solder has a higher melting point.

Ray Bronk

[tanchiro58]

Ray Bronk,

I just got the lead free solder. What is your suggestion of other tips? Thanks.

Tan

[guest1632]

Ray Bronk,

I just got the lead free solder. What is your suggestion of other tips? :scratch:Thanks.

Tan

Hi Tan,

Did you get the lead-free soldering station, or some lead-free solder? If you look it will show you all of the other tips.

Ray

[tanchiro58]

Hi Ray Bronk,

I got the lead-free solder station. Sorry for the typo (bad english!!!).

Since my old Hakko 936 screwed up my works I have to get a best one (best of the good) but paid less, why not? So what kind of tips are you using for little tiny works like SB3 components and other common solding on PCB like replacing capacitors, resistors, surface mount chips, etc... How many differnt tips are you using now?

Tan

[guest1632]

Hi Ray Bronk,

I got the lead-free solder station. Sorry for the typo (bad english!!!).

Since my old Hakko 936 screwed up my works I have to get a best one (best of the good) but paid less, why not? So what kind of tips are you using for little tiny works like SB3 components and other common solding on PCB like replacing capacitors, resistors, surface mount chips, etc... How many differnt tips are you using now?

Tan

Hi Tan,

I haven't got the soldering station yet. I'm about to purchase it. Is the tip not find enough for replacing caps and resistors off a circuit board? They do have smaller or different sized tips.  If you go up to CSI's website, they show a lot of tip sizes and shapes. By the way, replacing the iron for that station is $20. I had a concern that the iron was replacable or not.

I know I wasn't probably not much help. Sorry about that.

Ray

[guest1632]

Ray this is the best buy out there in terms of price. I have one and it works great. I bought this one on the recommendation of John Hillig of Musical concepts. He uses one on his work bench and loves it.
Sturgus

Small review
http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/5777

http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/6438

Hi Sturgus,

Have a simple q for you. Could you measure the distance between the grip, (where you hold it) to the end of the tip. Let me know. I am looking at three different soldering stations. Trying to decide which one. The fact the iron is hardwired to the base concerns me. You can get a replacement iron, but not sure how you would then hardwire it back in the base. So let me know ASAP.

Ray Bronk

[guest1632]

I've got a cheap CSI station ($35).  If you spend $50 you get a free multimeter [a cheapie, but its FREE].

Because its so cheap I've seen a few recommendations for it around here and other audio sites

http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/7307

Hi Samplesj,

I'll ask the same of you like I did Sturgus. Could you tell me the distance between the grip where you hole it, to the end of the tip. My old soldering station measured about 3.5 to 4 inches. Thanks. I am looking at three different soldering stations. so need to know ASAP.

Ray Bronk

[guest1632]

Hi Ray Bronk,

I got the lead-free solder station. Sorry for the typo (bad english!!!).

Since my old Hakko 936 screwed up my works I have to get a best one (best of the good) but paid less, why not? So what kind of tips are you using for little tiny works like SB3 components and other common solding on PCB like replacing capacitors, resistors, surface mount chips, etc... How many differnt tips are you using now?

Tan

Hi Tan,

I'm looking at that one too. Could you tell me the distance in inches between the grip, to the end of the tip? I am looking at three soldering stations. The fact that the tip and heating element are combined that could make the grip to tip shorter. Need to know ASAP.Thanks.

Ray Bronk

[tanchiro58]

Hi Ray Bronk,

It is 2 inches from the rubber grip to tip. This solder station is awsome. The melting point is fast and it is adjustable in degree and it let you know when the tip is ready to use by beeping. Good luck.

Tan