Okay. . Time to spill your cleaning secrets!

wallace · « **Reply #100 on:** 2 May 2008, 05:03 pm »

Anyone use a drop of ethylene glycol (antifreeze) per gallon cleaning solution?
Supposed to function as lubricant/emulsifier. Helps to detatch the shite.

woodsyi · « **Reply #101 on:** 2 May 2008, 05:23 pm »

Quote from: wallace on 2 May 2008, 05:03 pm

Anyone use a drop of ethylene glycol (antifreeze) per gallon cleaning solution?
Supposed to function as lubricant/emulsifier. Helps to detatch the shite.

No way I am bringing in antifreeze in the house.

My dog listens with me.

Derockster · « **Reply #102 on:** 8 Mar 2009, 08:04 pm »

Hey guys,this might be seen as somewhat crazy but oh what the heck it's a crazy hobby

Have any of you guys tried WD-40 on your records?I tried it today for the first and I love what it has done to my vinyl.They now have a greasy feeling to them afterwards and a shine and the noise floor is much reduced leaving more detail and extended top end and tighter bass.I'm loving it so far.Regards derockster

Wayner · « **Reply #103 on:** 8 Mar 2009, 08:19 pm »

Right now, WD-40 might be OK, but later on it's going to collect dust and turn to gum, IMHO. It's a good lubricant and I use it all over the house and vehicles, but this could end up being trouble for you. At least do yourself a little test. See what happens to a couple of records over time. I just couldn't handle the smell everytime I wanted to play a record. Also later on it will stain your record sleeves, album covers and contaminate all your record cleaning brushes and stuff like that.

Wayner

Derockster · « **Reply #104 on:** 8 Mar 2009, 08:23 pm »

Thanks for your valued opinion Wayner,will bear it in mind.All I can do for now is comment on the here and now and I'm definitely loving it

Will keep you posted.Cleaton

BobM · « **Reply #105 on:** 8 Mar 2009, 11:28 pm »

As much as a record "lubricant" may keep down the noise floor, if you want transparency and detail you need a clean record so all those little ridgies can be reproduced accurately. You also need a clean stylus, so anything that could possibly gum up the little diamond or cantilever is a no-no.

I recently got a new 200 g album and was sorely disappointed in the sound of this high quality virgin vinyl. But it had the pressing lubricant on it, as do all records. Then I cleaned it and found out just how great it was. A dramatic improvement overall. You just have to get this stuff off.

I've found that a little extra downward tracking force also tends to play cleaner with less pops and clicks than a lighter tracking force. Just don't overdo it, since your stylus still needs to have a "sprung" suspension to work properly. An keep a clean needle as well, not just with a lint brush - use a proper stylus cleaner after you play a batch of records.

MaxCast · « **Reply #106 on:** 9 Mar 2009, 01:13 am »

When you guys say "scrub" how hard do you scrub and with what do you scrub?
Thanks

Derockster · « **Reply #107 on:** 9 Mar 2009, 03:04 am »

Hey Wayner/guys maybe my explanation of my cleaning process wasn't as thorough as it should have been so I'm going to elaborate on the process some more.
1) spray on WD-40 and leave to soak for a minute or so
2)apply dish washing liquid and thoroughly rinse away with warm water
3)Allow to air dry(I know this is not the best thing but it'll have to do for now)
4)lastly just before playing I give the record a wipe with my anti static cloths
then it's onto the 1200 for playing aa
I listen really late into the night.It's now 11.07 pm my time and I'm still enjoying the results from this cleaning process.Regards derockster

TheChairGuy · « **Reply #108 on:** 9 Mar 2009, 06:20 am »

Quote from: MaxCast on 9 Mar 2009, 01:13 am

When you guys say "scrub" how hard do you scrub and with what do you scrub?
Thanks

MaxieRich,

It's generally a pretty soft bristle brush you use with vinyl...so even 'hard scrubbing' isn't really hard (like a stiffer bristle brush might be on pots and pans or floors)

The grooves are only 1/64" deep, so hard scrubbing is really relative term here.

The scrub should be 'thorough' (no areas missed), rather than truly hard per se.

Ciao, John

Wayner · « **Reply #109 on:** 9 Mar 2009, 09:58 pm »

So your actually using it as a petroleum cleaner, then washing it off with detergent. WD-40 is a very effective cleaner. I have a record that I am going to try your technique on. I'll see for myself how the WD washes out after it has done it's own cleaning job. After all, you don't want to leave any dishwashing detergent in the grooves, either.

Wayner

BobM · « **Reply #110 on:** 10 Mar 2009, 12:50 pm »

Try adding a drop or two of Photoflow to the dishwashing solution. This will help break the natural surface tension that water will have on an oily surface and get it into the grooves.

An old DIY record cleaning solution trick.

Bob

jrtrent · « **Reply #111 on:** 14 Aug 2009, 02:31 pm »

Quote from: Hantra on 30 Jun 2003, 01:27 pm

I am interested in learning new methods to clean my vinyl. I am not sure that I am cleaning as well as I can. I have just been using tap water, and dishwashing detergent, and rinsing with distilled water, and alcohol.

So, how do you do it? I want details!

Quote from: jrtrent on 21 Sep 2006, 11:53 am

Linn says that the best method of cleaning records is to let the stylus remove the dust, then clean the stylus. Their opinion is that the dust that inevitably settles on records is not harmful because it's on the surface, not down in the groove, and that most record cleaning devices end up forcing at least some of that dust down into the groove where it can do damage. I've followed their advice for over 20 years with no deleterious effect on my record collection, more peace of mind, and greater pleasure in listening from this relaxed, non-fussy approach to vinyl playback.

Quote from: TheChairGuy on 7 Aug 2006, 02:47 am

Well, I looked at my vinyl cleaning ritual that I posted a couple pages back - and realized I've gotten more anal since. . .

Addressing the original post, and in the spirit of change mentioned by TheChairGuy, I will confess to having recently become a cleaner of records. While I still agree with the Linn observations I posted a few pages ago, the reality is that most records I've purchased over the last several years have been used ones, often from the bargain bins and not looking exactly pristine. Not knowing what potentially damaging cleaning methods may have been applied to them over the years, the idea of adopting a safe, effective cleaning ritual has its appeal.

Details:

1. I bought a new Nitty Gritty Model 1.0 record cleaning machine along with a 4-pack of replacement Vac-Sweep fibers, replacement "velvet" for the record cleaning brush, a gallon of Pure 2 cleaning fluid, and the smoked acrylic dust cover.

2. In terms of process, I pretty much follow the directions in the owner's manual. The only significant change is that I don't start with "apply a liberal amount of record cleaning fluid to the fibers of the VAC-SWEEP." I found that no matter how I tried to do that, I ended up with more fluid running off and standing in little puddles on top of the machine than was being absorbed by the fibers. I now: a) put a record on the Nitty Gritty spindle; b) apply fluid directly to the record surface; c) spread the fluid around the record with the cleaning brush; and d) flip the record over. I follow the directions in the manual from that point on.

3. Following the manufacturer's recommendation for obtaining the best results, I clean every record with the Nitty Gritty just before every play. Some have told me this is overkill, but then I see them using an antistatic device and/or carbon fiber brush every time they play a previously-cleaned record. I understand their reasons, but I have come to trust the Nitty Gritty to safely remove "airborne dust, accidental finger grease, and incidental static charge." It really does take just a minute to do and has quickly become routine, not something that takes much thought or effort to perform.

4. I haven't yet purchased replacement inner sleaves for my records, though it's probably not a bad idea. Since I clean the records every time they're played, part of the benefit of new sleeves becomes a non-issue.

5. One complaint lodged against VPI and Nitty Gritty machines has been overheating during marathon cleaning sessions. That's a non-issue with my process since the machine gets about a 40-minute rest between the cleaning of each record. I've also never had any waste fluid to drain. Nitty Gritty says it will usually evaporate if just a few records are cleaned each day, and I have found that to be true with their fluid.

It's been three years since my previous post in this thread and, as I said above, I'm new to this record cleaning thing. Maybe by 2012 I'll have a different process to report.

Wayner · « **Reply #112 on:** 14 Aug 2009, 03:35 pm »

That's an interesting comment about RCM's motors overheating. UL requires all AC motors to be tested with locked rotor to comply with fire ratings required on all motors. So if a motor over heats and thermals out, what up with that?

Wayner

jrtrent · « **Reply #113 on:** 15 Aug 2009, 02:28 pm »

Quote from: Wayner on 14 Aug 2009, 03:35 pm

That's an interesting comment about RCM's motors overheating. UL requires all AC motors to be tested with locked rotor to comply with fire ratings required on all motors. So if a motor over heats and thermals out, what up with that?

The Nitty Gritty manual warns that cleaning several records in one session can cause the unit to "get quite warm." They recommend a maximum of ten records per session. I once cleaned seven records in a session that I was taking to a friend's home for beer, pizza, and music appreciation, and the machine did indeed heat up quite a bit.

There have been just a couple comments here at Audio Circle about record cleaning machines overheating, but it's been a common topic at other forum sites. For casual home use, the things work fine. If someone regularly brings home a couple dozen records to clean all at once or decides to clean their entire collection in a weekend, the Nitty Gritty models and the VPI 16.5 might have some problems. One 16.5 user reported burning out two motors in a year on two different machines, but that was for severe service. http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=239501&page=2

VPI's model 17 has been designed for cleaning large batches of vinyl without a break and, according to the link above, the Loricrafts do well also, though these come at a higher price. Used as described in my earlier post, I expect that my inexpensive Nitty Gritty Model 1.0 will provide excellent service. One audio dealer in my area uses that same model in his store and it has worked reliably for him for many years.

vinyl_guy · « **Reply #114 on:** 10 Sep 2009, 04:10 am »

I use a VPI 17F, cleaning in both directions. I have tried most of the commercially available cleaners and prefer Disc Doctor fluid with the Disc Doctor brushes for most cleaning. I also use LAST's RCM cleaner. For really dirty used records I use the Audio Intelligent two step cleaning products. I rinse with a reverse osmosis, deionized water I purchase form Culligan for 50 cents per gallon. According to Jim Pendleton at Audio Intelligent, the deionization is the key to the purest rinsing water available. I use the automatic fluid dispenser on the VPI 17F to dispense the rinsing water. I am very satisfied with the results.

I also believe it is absolutely essential to clean all new LPs before playing in order to remvoe the mold release compound and dust form the pressing plant. Not only does the record sound better, it keeps gunk off of your stylus.

Good listening to all

kenreau · « **Reply #115 on:** 15 Sep 2009, 02:35 pm »

Quote from: vinyl_lady on 10 Sep 2009, 04:10 am

... I rinse with a reverse osmosis, deionized water I purchase form Culligan for 50 cents per gallon. According to Jim Pendleton at Audio Intelligent, the deionization is the key to the purest rinsing water available. I use the automatic fluid dispenser on the VPI 17F to dispense the rinsing water. I am very satisfied with the results.

Good listening to all

Thanks, the rinse water is what I have been wondering about myself. The RO/DI water and a source (Culligan) nails it. I have been using just the distilled water from the grocery store.

Thanks
Kenreau

longjian · « **Reply #116 on:** 29 Oct 2009, 09:02 pm »

let?s state from start thru the end.

the vynil discs ( 33 1/3 and 45 RPM ) are supposed to be dusty and worn from repeated use { no longer applicable thanks to cd technology }. that is my case here.

i wash my hands first prior to handling the cleaning process.
i use my ( bought as new ) my vpi 16.5 cleaning machine.

For playing the fresh cleaned disc, i too do clean the stylus with the record research fluid lp#9.

For recording straight to cd, i do use the antistatic gun to eliminate the cracking noises. if you want to really remove those surface noises, read the Corey Greenberg article printed in Audio magazine.

i purchased mine from music direct .com

i do this to listen some of my favorite music that was never available on cd discs.

this is my preferred method. i hope you aprove my style.

ecramer · « **Reply #117 on:** 30 Oct 2009, 09:15 pm »

Ok where do you get

Triton X-114 or photo plo
Reverse osmosis deionized water
99 pure isopropyl.

Going to make me some record cleaning solution but been having a hard time locating a source for this stuff figured i would mix up a big batch and pawn some off down at the local record store as they don't carry any ad there's always some one asking for some.

ED

longjian · « **Reply #118 on:** 30 Oct 2009, 10:19 pm »

beats me!
i do use the water that were sold for use on cars?s batteries.
i mix it with the vpi cleaning fluid.
that is all.
it works very fine with my cleaning needs.
i mean i have more than 11 years of using this method.

nowdays vinyl lps are hard to find specially the brand new of good music.
do not risk your beloved collection on experiments.

vinyl_guy · « **Reply #119 on:** 30 Oct 2009, 11:45 pm »

Quote from: ecramer on 30 Oct 2009, 09:15 pm

Ok where do you get

Reverse osmosis deionized water

ED

Ed,

I buy reverse osmosis deionized water from Culligan. Costs me 50 cents per gallon for a 5 gallon container. I bought their pump for $29 so I didn't have to lift and pour.

Laura