[Quiet Earth]

Just wanted to pass along what I've found from modding my Constantine DAC further, since it applies to the Paradisea as well.  Basically, my conclusion is the the MHDT Labs film and foil caps are not so hot.  I've been replacing all of these caps (not just the output ones) with 1.0 and 0.1 microfarad metal film caps from Radio Shack.  These caps have gotten pretty good reviews (especially for their price), and they are a step up from the MHDT Labs caps.  I've been going one or two caps at a time, and with each one there is an incremental improvement.  Very interesting.  I figured there would be an improvement by changing the output caps, but not by swapping out the other caps in the circuit.  Not arguing with the results though. 

Are you referring to the blue 1.0µF 250V 10% Metal-film Capacitor (Model: 272-1055) that costs 1.59 and the 0.1 uF Metallized Polyester Film Capacitor (Model: 272-1053) that costs 1.49?

Also, just out of curiousity, how many hours of "audio signal playing" burn in time did you give the stock Constantine before you started modifying it?

Thanks,
QE

[Les Lammers]

I just got the Paradisea + today and am using it with a 47 Labs Flatfish transport going into a Shindo Aurieges pre and Montille EL84 amp.
It is quite good 'out of the box' and I will let it settle in. I have a WE 396A coming. I ordered it direct last Saturday and it arrived in Florida today. 

I put the WE 396A in and like what is happening so far....enough to be considering installing OIMP V-Caps on the output after the DAC burns in.   

[Les Lammers]

I'm expecting delivery on a Paradisea DAC shortly and am looking for recommendations for a digital cable to be used between my CDP used as a transport and a DAC. This is my first experience with a DAC as I've always used a one box CDP and I'm not very knowledgeable about digital cables. Favorite cables anyone?

Thanks,

Robert

Hi Robert,

I am using the same Stereovox digital cable and have also used VPI copper phono IC's (This is still connected) and  ZuXaus silver phono IC's. I will also try the Nanotec #210 IC when I get the wire. *I* don't think a big $$$ cable is necessary. There is no *best* just personal preference. The choice of wire may change when I get the OIMP caps installed and burned in.

Les

[denjo]

I am using an inexpensive optical cable feeding my stock Paradisea and find one would be hard put to tell the differences with RCA cables! The WE 386 is pretty analog sounding Although I have an Altmann Attraction DAC which throws a wider soundstage and is more detailed, the Paradisea allows for relaxed and fatigue-free listening!

[emac]

Are you referring to the blue 1.0µF 250V 10% Metal-film Capacitor (Model: 272-1055) that costs 1.59 and the 0.1 uF Metallized Polyester Film Capacitor (Model: 272-1053) that costs 1.49?

Also, just out of curiousity, how many hours of "audio signal playing" burn in time did you give the stock Constantine before you started modifying it?

Thanks,
QE

Yep, the blue Radio Shack caps.  There are better caps out there than these (though some people on DIYAudio have liked them), but they are cheap and easily available.  They also don't seem to take long to burn in either.  I'd guess about 5-10 hrs.   

I've ordered some Rubycon caps to replace some of the electrolytics.  Should be in by the end of the week if all goes well.  So, I'll post once they are burnt in.

As for how long I had the Constantine before I started modding it, it was around a year.  So, I'm pretty familiar with how it sounded and how it sounds now, which is vastly different. 

[t-head]

FWIW,
I have used Mogami Neglex 1m cable and Pulsar cable with my Paradisea+ DAC. The Pulsar was 'better' but Mogami was approx 1/10 cost. Chris Ven Haus was not very friendly...I am using Mogami and am POed at VH audio...

t

[rajacat]

Are you referring to the blue 1.0µF 250V 10% Metal-film Capacitor (Model: 272-1055) that costs 1.59 and the 0.1 uF Metallized Polyester Film Capacitor (Model: 272-1053) that costs 1.49?

Also, just out of curiousity, how many hours of "audio signal playing" burn in time did you give the stock Constantine before you started modifying it?

Thanks,
QE

Yep, the blue Radio Shack caps.  There are better caps out there than these (though some people on DIYAudio have liked them), but they are cheap and easily available.  They also don't seem to take long to burn in either.  I'd guess about 5-10 hrs.   

I've ordered some Rubycon caps to replace some of the electrolytics.  Should be in by the end of the week if all goes well.  So, I'll post once they are burnt in.

As for how long I had the Constantine before I started modding it, it was around a year.  So, I'm pretty familiar with how it sounded and how it sounds now, which is vastly different. 

I have the Constantine too. I just ordered a pair of Obbligato 2.2uf to replace the output caps. I also purchased  .1uf Obbs. to use for bypass.http://www.diyhifisupply.com/diyhs_ob_caps.htm

I also plan to replace most of the caps. The Obbligatos are quite large so they won't fit in the .1uf holes.

---Roy

[Quiet Earth]

Are you referring to the blue 1.0µF 250V 10% Metal-film Capacitor (Model: 272-1055) that costs 1.59 and the 0.1 uF Metallized Polyester Film Capacitor (Model: 272-1053) that costs 1.49?

Also, just out of curiousity, how many hours of "audio signal playing" burn in time did you give the stock Constantine before you started modifying it?

Thanks,
QE

Yep, the blue Radio Shack caps.  There are better caps out there than these (though some people on DIYAudio have liked them), but they are cheap and easily available.  They also don't seem to take long to burn in either.  I'd guess about 5-10 hrs.   

I've ordered some Rubycon caps to replace some of the electrolytics.  Should be in by the end of the week if all goes well.  So, I'll post once they are burnt in.

As for how long I had the Constantine before I started modding it, it was around a year.  So, I'm pretty familiar with how it sounded and how it sounds now, which is vastly different. 

Thanks emac. That was very helpful. I have only had my Constantine+ powered up (and running music through it) for 12 days.  I will wait a bit longer to get very familiar with it before I decide to make any changes. I have used those "blue caps" before and they are indeed a good value.

Thank you too rajacat for your input. I will keep all of this in mind for the future.
 

[Les Lammers]

This unit has also taken my system one step closer to sonic bliss.

That is good for you. But if you want to reach "into sonic bliss" you should modify the signal path in your Paradisea and build your own Audio Consulting digital cable. Ask F100 how his Paradisea sound with that digital cable.

What is the recipe for the Audio Consulting digi cable?

TIA,

Les

[rajacat]

Just wanted to pass along what I've found from modding my Constantine DAC further, since it applies to the Paradisea as well.  Basically, my conclusion is the the MHDT Labs film and foil caps are not so hot.  I've been replacing all of these caps (not just the output ones) with 1.0 and 0.1 microfarad metal film caps from Radio Shack.  These caps have gotten pretty good reviews (especially for their price), and they are a step up from the MHDT Labs caps.  I've been going one or two caps at a time, and with each one there is an incremental improvement.  Very interesting.  I figured there would be an improvement by changing the output caps, but not by swapping out the other caps in the circuit.  Not arguing with the results though. 

I'm in the process of upgrading my Constantine too. Yesterday I replaced the stock output caps with these 2.2uf Obbligato film caps. For a few dollars more you can get them with the nice solid copper case which might have some sonic benefits. So far I've noticed an increase in transparency, resolution and better extension of the high frequencies . I only have about 20 hours on these caps and I suspect that ~100 hours will be necessary before they fully stabilize. The Obbligato metal-in-oil caps that I used for my Trends 10.1s required about 100 hours. I also have enough Obbligatos to replace all the .1uf and the single .22uf stock cap. I will do this sometime this week. Replacing all the stock caps is a relatively cheap mod if don't use expensive boutique cap and it doesn't require refined DIY skills or knowledge.

emac..What cap did you use the replace the two .01uf 1200v cap?

[shooter]

The 1200v rating don't mean anything, unless they are across the AC, the DC voltage used inside the DAC are pretty low. I am currently testing 5 different caps in my Paradisea, the Obbilgatos copper case and black case film in oil are on the roster, the others are Russian paper and oil, Mundorf silver and oil, West-cap paper in oil, I have solder extension wires from the dac and use wire nuts to switch out caps, I am also using another oversampling dac with tent clock as reference to compare, I think audio memory are not too reliable for minute differences, the Obbilgatos still need much breakin.

[rajacat]

The 1200v rating don't mean anything, unless they are across the AC, the DC voltage used inside the DAC are pretty low. I am currently testing 5 different caps in my Paradisea, the Obbilgatos copper case and black case film in oil are on the roster, the others are Russian paper and oil, Mundorf silver and oil, West-cap paper in oil, I have solder extension wires from the dac and use wire nuts to switch out caps, I am also using another oversampling dac with tent clock as reference to compare, I think audio memory are not too reliable for minute differences, the Obbilgatos still need much breakin.

It's odd that Mhdt would use 1200v caps . Hmmm...I'm not sure what function those particular caps perform but I'll probably replace them too with something. I have the Black film-in-oil 2.0uf in both of my Trends 10.1. When I get my other amp back, I will try them in the  Constantine. They are completely broken-in. Do you think the copper cases make any difference? The supplier is running short of the coppers in some sizes. All my smaller Obbs. are black film.

Please keep us posted. I will be very interested in the outcome of your cap shootout. I use a Bolder fully modded SB3 as reference. I can switch back and forth from the analog to the digital so I'm using the analog modded side as reference.

--Roy

-Roy

[Quiet Earth]

Just wanted to pass along what I've found from modding my Constantine DAC further, since it applies to the Paradisea as well.  Basically, my conclusion is the the MHDT Labs film and foil caps are not so hot.  I've been replacing all of these caps (not just the output ones) with 1.0 and 0.1 microfarad metal film caps from Radio Shack.  These caps have gotten pretty good reviews (especially for their price), and they are a step up from the MHDT Labs caps.  I've been going one or two caps at a time, and with each one there is an incremental improvement.  Very interesting.  I figured there would be an improvement by changing the output caps, but not by swapping out the other caps in the circuit.  Not arguing with the results though. 

I'm in the process of upgrading my Constantine too. Yesterday I replaced the stock output caps with these 2.2uf Obbligato film caps. For a few dollars more you can get them with the nice solid copper case which might have some sonic benefits. So far I've noticed an increase in transparency, resolution and better extension of the high frequencies . I only have about 20 hours on these caps and I suspect that ~100 hours will be necessary before they fully stabilize. The Obbligato metal-in-oil caps that I used for my Trends 10.1s required about 100 hours. I also have enough Obbligatos to replace all the .1uf and the single .22uf stock cap. I will do this sometime this week. Replacing all the stock caps is a relatively cheap mod if don't use expensive boutique cap and it doesn't require refined DIY skills or knowledge.

emac..What cap did you use the replace the two .01uf 1200v cap?

I have a couple of 0.47uF Audio Note copper PIO caps in my parts box. Last week I put them in my Constantine+, replacing the MHDT brand output coupling caps. They just barely fit inside, they are about the size of D cell batteries. Man, what a huge difference. This DAC sounds very good now. Scary good for the price of admission, including what it would have cost to put in the Audio Note caps. I would like to point out that 2 uF may not be necessary for output coupling. 0.47uF seems to be enough for me.

Tomorrow, I will try to find the time to substitute some of the Nichicon electrolytics. Black Gate Anyone? 

Here is a link to a pic of the DAC w/cap replacement  ; http://s7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/Quietearth/?action=view&current=DSCN6483.jpg

[emac]

I'm in the process of upgrading my Constantine too. Yesterday I replaced the stock output caps with these 2.2uf Obbligato film caps. For a few dollars more you can get them with the nice solid copper case which might have some sonic benefits. So far I've noticed an increase in transparency, resolution and better extension of the high frequencies . I only have about 20 hours on these caps and I suspect that ~100 hours will be necessary before they fully stabilize. The Obbligato metal-in-oil caps that I used for my Trends 10.1s required about 100 hours. I also have enough Obbligatos to replace all the .1uf and the single .22uf stock cap. I will do this sometime this week. Replacing all the stock caps is a relatively cheap mod if don't use expensive boutique cap and it doesn't require refined DIY skills or knowledge.

emac..What cap did you use the replace the two .01uf 1200v cap?

I tried putting in 0.01uf Vishay Roederstein MKP1837 caps (the ones that work well for bypassing) and thought they sounded worse.  I put back in the MHDT caps, and it sounded better.  Go figure.  And it is somewhat strange that they used a high voltage cap.  It's value is way out of proportion to all of the others used in the circuit.  Probably not necessary to have them be that high. 

I also recently replaced most of the electrolytics with Rubycons, mostly ZLs.  I feel that helped as well, though it's pretty hard to tell because I've hard to use different speakers of late due to a burnt out crossover. 

[Quiet Earth]

I have read that the higher voltage caps sound better than their lower voltage equivalents. This may be because of more surface area within the capacitor but I honestly don't know. I suppose if MHDT is going to have someone make them a cap, they probably picked the highest voltage for that reason, and also because they could minimize their inventory of values.

Just a guess . . . .

[rajacat]

That's interesting that .47uf is sufficient for the output caps. My Constantine is an earlier model which had 1.0uf stock but the later Constantine+ has 2.0uf stock output caps. Perhaps it's the quality not the quantity within certain parameters.

-Roy

[emac]

That's interesting that .47uf is sufficient for the output caps. My Constantine is an earlier model which had 1.0uf stock but the later Constantine+ has 2.0uf stock output caps. Perhaps it's the quality not the quantity within certain parameters.

-Roy

For my USB+ Constantine, I started w/ 1.0uF caps, which sounded pretty good.  Then I went to 2.0uF, and I thought that sounded better.  The difference wasn't huge, so I'm not willing to bet on what I was hearing, but that was my take. 

[Quiet Earth]

That's interesting that .47uf is sufficient for the output caps. My Constantine is an earlier model which had 1.0uf stock but the later Constantine+ has 2.0uf stock output caps. Perhaps it's the quality not the quantity within certain parameters.

-Roy

0.47uF is usually enough to get the job done. I've seen 0.22 and even 0.1uF used successfully for coupling tube stages, but that is getting to the lower limit. You do start to lose some low frequency information if you go too low. If you were driving a preamp with a very low input impedance of maybe 5 or 10k, or a passive volume control, then maybe 1 or 2uF would be better for your output cap. I used mine (with 0.47uF) with both a 100K and 50K load (a tube integrated amp and a TVC) and had plenty of bass.

You are right on with your statement about quality over quantity. I find this to be true with the electrolytic power supply caps too. Quite often you can get away with much less capacitance (but never less voltage!) and substitute for a better capacitor that is physically larger. Like Black Gate or Elna.

[Quiet Earth]

That's interesting that .47uf is sufficient for the output caps. My Constantine is an earlier model which had 1.0uf stock but the later Constantine+ has 2.0uf stock output caps. Perhaps it's the quality not the quantity within certain parameters.

-Roy

For my USB+ Constantine, I started w/ 1.0uF caps, which sounded pretty good.  Then I went to 2.0uF, and I thought that sounded better.  The difference wasn't huge, so I'm not willing to bet on what I was hearing, but that was my take. 

You probably did hear a difference. Maybe even better bass. Sometimes a smaller cap can sound faster and better balanced than a very large one in the long run. It's really all a matter of personal preference.

If you are willing to give up the very lowest frequency, you can find some excellent sounding caps that do the majority of the spectrum with style and finesse. My speakers can only go down to the mid 30s, so I don't care about the subwoofer territory.

[Les Lammers]

I installed 250 volt 2.0 uf OIMP V caps in my Paradisea + yesterday. A nice improvement out of the box...now for the 500 hr burn in. This is the first time I tried these. AN copper foil in oil was my go to cap. I used these because they are physically smaller than the AN's. Caps are a matter of sonic preference. There is no best.