The VMPS "TWEAK"

Sa-dono · « **Reply #20 on:** 16 May 2003, 11:31 pm »

Quote from: warnerwh

Q, thank you for your information. Certainly is an obvious improvement. Will ask to see why they aren't shipped with jumpers so we all know.

Because John finally went off his rocker..and you're all following him like little lemmings

How's that for "trash talk" John?

All kidding aside, I am looking forward to eventually hearing your tweaked RM40's.

John Casler · « **Reply #21 on:** 16 May 2003, 11:40 pm »

Quote

Because John finally went off his rocker..and you're all following him like little lemmings How's that for "trash talk" John? All kidding aside, I am looking forward to eventually hearing your tweaked RM40's.

Ahhh let me look deep into my "crystal" RIBBON.... Far into the future....Yes I see it now.. the veils are lifting.... The sonic fog is clearing... And YES IT IS.

I see... I see.. Sa-dono.

I see... Sa-dono sitting nearfeild in front of... could it be?

Sa-Dono will have VMPS ribbons in his system

Sa-dono · « **Reply #22 on:** 17 May 2003, 12:51 am »

Quote from: John Casler

Ahhh let me look deep into my "crystal" RIBBON.... Far into the future....Yes I see it now.. the veils are lifting.... The sonic fog is clearing... And YES IT IS.

I see... I see.. Sa-dono.

I see... Sa-dono sitting nearfeild in front of... could it be?

Sa-Dono will have VMPS ribbons in his system

Touche!

So when do you plan on start selling these "crystal" ribbons? You'd think they'd be a little bright when foretelling the audio of the future

F-100 · « **Reply #23 on:** 19 May 2003, 02:24 pm »

I have some extra silver wire that was left over from another project and planning to build a pair of jumper for this tweak. Do you guys think the silver jumper will sound better than the copper jumper or just a waste of time here?

warnerwh · « **Reply #24 on:** 19 May 2003, 11:29 pm »

F100, It's pretty unlikely you'd notice anything with that short of a run but it's easy and cheap. I like good connections. Did you ever adjust the passive radiator?

John Casler · « **Reply #25 on:** 19 May 2003, 11:44 pm »

Quote

So when do you plan on start selling these "crystal" ribbons? You'd think they'd be a little bright when foretelling the audio of the future

I already do.

And they are called Ribbon Monitors. With them I can predict what sound you'll be listening to and hearing in the future "if" (in my best Lawrence Fishburne impression) "you do exactly as I say".

But the cool thing is, you can control the future (sound wise)

And as far as brightness.... they can control that too.

It gets a little "MATRIX like", when listening to the past with a controlled sonic future that "you" control.

Keaneu is working on a "treatment" as we "listen".

F-100 · « **Reply #26 on:** 20 May 2003, 01:25 am »

Quote from: warnerwh

F100, It's pretty unlikely you'd notice anything with that short of a run but it's easy and cheap. I like good connections. Did you ever adjust the passive radiator?

Warner,
Thanks for the answer. I'm going to experiment the silver jumper anyway, inquiry mind want to know

. As for the bass, I'm trying to tame it. Any idea how much putty should I start out with?

Thanks

warnerwh · « **Reply #27 on:** 20 May 2003, 02:02 am »

About a fingernail full at a time is all the putty you want to remove. This can take some time when you aren't used to it but makes alot of difference in the sound of the speaker, not just the bass. I'm sure others here were as surprised as me to see the balance of the speaker change by just removing a little putty. From stock you usually end up with about the size of a pea from each speaker. Be sure to save it so you can go back to where you were if need be. Good Luck

Sa-dono · « **Reply #28 on:** 20 May 2003, 03:29 am »

Quote from: John Casler

I already do. And they are called Ribbon Monitors. With them I can predict what sound you'll be listening to and hearing in the future "if" (in my best Lawrence Fishburne impression) "you do exactly as I say".

But the cool thing is, you can control the future (sound wise)

And as far as brightness.... they can control that too.

It gets a little "MATRIX like", when listening to the past with a controlled sonic future that "you" control.

Keaneu is working on a "treatment" as we "listen".

I think you watched the Matrix one too many times this weekend John

That or maybe you got hit on the head by the horns instead of listening to them

I'll await hearing these "crystal ribbons" this weekend

soundguy3 · « **Reply #29 on:** 20 May 2003, 08:40 am »

It makes a HUGE difference in the overall bass response AND the tonality of the 40's in general, dependent upon how much or how little putty that is removed. You are right, I could not believe the difference in the sound with this adjustment. Really small amounts make a big difference.

Also, turning the 2 pots in the back in really small increments is very important.

Just received the RM40's and am getting them tuned into the room and adjusted. So far, a great sounding speaker.

More later..........

Soundguy3

EAR MKII Stereo Amp/Front EAR Pre/EAD 7000-HDCD/ EAD T-1000 Transport

F-100 · « **Reply #30 on:** 20 May 2003, 10:16 pm »

Warner,
Last night, I was poking around into the passive radiator and try to see how much putty are there and I couldn't find any. The only thing in there are couple spiders and some web. I tried to move my finger into the middle of the cone and nothing is there, not a single ounce of putty on both speakers. Hmmm.... I wonder if those spiders ate up all my putty

warnerwh · « **Reply #31 on:** 21 May 2003, 12:47 am »

Soundguy3: just emailed you. Am hoping you will let me hear those 40's as I'm in Portland also.

warnerwh · « **Reply #32 on:** 21 May 2003, 12:50 am »

F100: Call Brian and find out how much putty should be on each speaker and be sure to weigh out exactly what he says. This is VERY important. Then start from there. The putty should be in the center of the passive radiator. You can get the rope putty from a hardware store. The sooner you do it the happier you'll be and it will quite bugging me whether or not you have them dialed in right.

John Casler · « **Reply #33 on:** 21 May 2003, 03:53 am »

Quote from: warnerwh

Soundguy3: just emailed you. Am hoping you will let me hear those 40's as I'm in Portland also.

Hi Warnerwh,

E-mail me. I have an idea you may be interested in.

James Romeyn · « **Reply #34 on:** 28 May 2003, 01:12 am »

I agree with John. I tried this several months ago with exact same results. Of course very best is to delete the toggle, as I've been recomending to my customers for years. There are at least two solder terminals still employed on the switch regardless of its position. They are not bypassed even with the jumpers employed.

reefrus · « **Reply #35 on:** 28 May 2003, 01:47 am »

I order my RM40/TRT/FS without toggle switch installed one week after CES early this year from Jim at Ribbonspeakers.net.So far,I haven't do anything or tweek on the RM40.They sound good right from day one and continue to impress me everytime I play music on them.

James Romeyn · « **Reply #36 on:** 28 May 2003, 04:45 am »

Quote from: Q

Even tho I don't yet own a pair of VMPSs, It appears that this mod is simply bypassing the switch contacts...

Above innacurate. Whether or not jumpers employed with the switch, there are several solder terminals on the switch still in circuit. Remove the lower woofer & confirm for yourself. Or just ask someone who assembled kits (if they can remember). Let's just keep hammering Brian till he abandons the switch.

warnerwh · « **Reply #37 on:** 28 May 2003, 05:04 am »

Could you just pull the wires from the switch and solder them together to keep the switch out? I agree that the switch shouldn't come on these especially considering the difference in sound putting jumpers on makes. Also seems like the cost of supplying jumpers would offset by the cost of the switch and extra labor there.

James Romeyn · « **Reply #38 on:** 28 May 2003, 05:21 am »

Quote from: warnerwh

Could you just pull the wires from the switch and solder them together to keep the switch out? I agree that the switch shouldn't come on these especially considering the difference in sound putting jumpers on makes. Also seems like the cost of supplying jumpers would offset by the cost of the switch and extra labor there.

Yes, but you must short it properly, or watch out! Good luck. It's been a long time since I checked out the switch wiring or I'd be more specific.

audiochef · « **Reply #39 on:** 29 May 2003, 06:28 am »

I just did this tweak to my tower 2 se kit which I've owned since 96 and it works, kudos to John for discovering this .The tower 2s are used as a second system (vintage gear-analog)and can hold its own against modern gear triple its price range.As an audiophile for 25 years now ,I consider myself an afficianado of quality 2channel sound. I also own apair of rm40s HETs , used in my digital system and consider VMPS one of the best sounding speaker companies on the planet