[Dunedain]

But if you remove the toggle switch, then that completely
eliminates any chance of using two amps to power the speakers,
right?

Would there even be a second set of speaker cable terminals
on the speakers if there was no switch?  Or would it still
come with two sets of terminals?

[Dunedain]

Hmm, my post seems to have been placed on the forum,
but I can't see it when I click on thread after
I posted it.  Very strange.  Must be some sort
of forum glitch.  

[John Casler]

But if you remove the toggle switch, then that completely
eliminates any chance of using two amps to power the speakers,
right?

Would there even be a second set of speaker cable terminals
on the speakers if there was no switch?  Or would it still
come with two sets of terminals?

If there is no toggle, there would still be two sets of binding posts.

They would just have to be connected with a set of "jumpers" when using a single channel to each speaker.

[Dunedain]

Ok, right.  In case you wanted to use a bi-wire
set of speaker cables, that's why the two terminals still?

But two separate amps, one for tweeter and mids and
one for the woofer is out the window with no switch, correct?

[John Casler]

Ok, right.  In case you wanted to use a bi-wire
set of speaker cables, that's why the two terminals still?

But two separate amps, one for tweeter and mids and
one for the woofer is out the window with no switch, correct?

No, you just use the Woofer amp on the "upper set" of binding posts and the tweet/mid amp on the lower. (no jumper)

[Dunedain]

Hmm, then why put the toggle switch in there in the first place,
what good does it do?  What can't you do with it not there versus
having it?

[John Casler]

It allows single or biamping at the flip of a switch, rather than using jumpers.

You'd be surprised by how many people don't want to make a set of jumpers.

Since the VMPS binding posts don't have a hole in them, they don't accept bare wire readily.   This means they have to be "terminated" with either spades or bananas and that means either buying a "prepared" jumper or DIY.

I think Brian has stated that a good pair of jumpers would actually cost more than the toggle.  And some spend enormous sums on speaker cable which might be hard to match.

[Dunedain]

Oh, I see.  But I had assumed that if the speakers were
ordered without the switch, then some sort of jumper for each speaker
would be supplied directly with the speakers so that they could
just be hooked up to a single amp immediately upon delivery.

Or would one have to go buy jumpers themselves in order to even use
a pair of VMPS with no switches, since no jumper cables (or brackets)
are provided?

[warnerwh]

You'll need to make some jumpers or buy them. It's easy and cheap to do.

[shokunin]

Could you just pull the wires from the switch and solder them together to keep the switch out?  I agree that the switch shouldn't come on these especially considering the difference in sound putting jumpers on makes. Also seems like the cost of supplying jumpers would offset by the cost of the switch and extra labor there.

You'll need to solder new wire from the binding post to the crossover network.  On my RM40's there's a short thin wire connecting the binding post to the toggle switch that is cut exactly the length it needs (couple of inches) to reach the contacts.   It'd probably be easier to simply solder new wires to the binding post and make a direct connection to the crossover and cut the wires leading to the switch.

Regarding jumpers, the way the binding posts are set on the RM40's make it difficult to get 2 sets of spades to hold tightly.  It'd be better to use banana's on the jumper cable between the upper and lower binding posts.  They distance between the two posts are pretty far apart and will need longer than the normal 6-9" jumpers most mfg's sell.

[Dunedain]

Thanks for the info., guys.

Hmm, I don't see why someone would feel the need to "match" their
jumper cable with their speaker cables.  I mean, the whole reason
for using the jumper and eliminating the toggle is to get a
better connection, bypass solder joints, etc.  So the connection
can only get better than the toggle (even though slightly less convenient),
even if using just a simple heavy gauge copper speaker wire with good
banana or spade connectors on the end.

So if these people with the very expensive speaker cable do not mind
the toggle connection between their speaker cable and the drivers, then
why would they mind a superior connection using common copper wiring?
Doesn't seem to make any sense.  

[Dunedain]

The forum glitch returns, wonder what causes it...

[John Casler]

So if these people with the very expensive speaker cable do not mind
the toggle connection between their speaker cable and the drivers, then
why would they mind a superior connection using common copper wiring?
Doesn't seem to make any sense.

Didn't mean to imply that people who use expensive cable would rather have the toggle.  That is not generally the case.

The people who order "without" have a tendency to spend more for their cable.  

I think most dealers tell their clients about it if they think the client will be using "high end" cables.

It is also ordered knowing they will either be biamping or supplying their own jumpers. (or some dealers offer them)

It is not an "official" (won't find it on the website) option.  It is deleted at the clients request.  But I suggest it, since the jumpers are rather easy to make and it does make a bit of a difference.

But if anyone has an old pair, or did not order theirs without the toggle, the tweak I suggested to start this thread, is helpful.
 

[theborg]

The forum glitch returns, wonder what causes it...

Thanks for pointing this out! I've synced the counter on this thread. This is an old thread so the out-of-sync probably dates from a while back.

[audiochef]

ditto