[magister]

I’ve heard a lot about Magnepans over the years, but never owned any. I recently got a good deal on a used pair of LRS+, including a set of MagnaRisers.  I did a lot of research before making this purchase and learned a great deal, but I’m left with a few questions.

What is with those binding posts? My other speakers all have had quality posts that don’t require me to keep track of a tiny Allen wrench. There may have been a good reason for this decades ago, but now?

My speakers have what look like small humps or ridges in the foil strips. The guy I bought these from is mostly into jazz, not metal. I did read in the manual the section titled “for those about to rock.“ Is this what they are talking about? (This was the best photo I could get.) I don’t think my speakers are damaged because they sound so excellent, but would appreciate any enlightenment.





Finally, if I keep these speakers, I will want to add a sub. I’ve been doing a lot of research since I’ve never owned a sub. Can folks recommend subs that they have used successfully with the LRS+ or other small Magnepans? RELs are often mentioned, but they have an issue involving hum with certain amplifiers, including mine (PS Audio BHK 250).  The hum issue can be addressed, but I prefer to avoid complications if possible.

Thanks in advance for any help – I am certainly enjoying the LRS+.

[SteveFord]

I've had mine cranked as loud as I can stand it in a small room, no bumps.
I use an REL, no hum with my amp (VTL tube amp).
Those binding posts, they see to be a tradition.  From what I understand, there's no sonic improvement with replacing them to something more conventional which is why they stuck with them over the decades.

[Saturn94]

I’ve never noticed any ridges/bumps in the foil conductors on my LRS despite playing them loud periodically.  I also don’t remember it being mentioned in the LRS manual, but do see it mentioned in the LRS+ manual.

I don’t have any issues with the binding posts using my Blue Jeans Cables with locking banana plugs.

In terms of subs, I’d recommend checking options from SVS, Power Sound Audio, and Rythmik.  I personally use a large sealed sub from Power Sound Audio (Triax, an older model with three 15” drivers in a sealed enclosure, no longer available) with excellent results. 

[magister]

Thanks to both of you.  I may contact Magnepan to see what they have to say about those bumps in the foil strips since they don't seem to be normal.  But, as I said, I don't think my LRS+ are damaged since I am hearing new details on familiar recordings, better reproduction of upper harmonics on guitars, etc.

I will check out subs from SVS, Power Sound Audio, and Rythmik; I had not heard of the first two brands previously.  The issue with RELs and some PS Audio amps has been discussed in detail on the PSA forum (sorry, I don't remember the details about why the hum occurs when the amps are in standby mode, but it is a known issue).

Unfortunately the banana plugs I have aren't the locking type, rather the BFA style (straight, no large tip) and they do fall out unless I screw them down.  So the Allen wrench is my friend -- but it does seem archaic.

[ketchup]

The bumps are common.  It is the foil delaminating from the mylar.  Magnepan usually says that they're normal and don't impact function or sound, but personally, I would not be happy with them if I bought them new.  Since you bought them used, there is not really anything you can do about them now.

[I.Greyhound Fan]

The bumps are common.  It is the foil delaminating from the mylar.  Magnepan usually says that they're normal and don't impact function or sound, but personally, I would not be happy with them if I bought them new.  Since you bought them used, there is not really anything you can do about them now.

My first pair of 1.6's, you could easily see the bumps.  I contacted Magnepan and they replaced the speakers.  Lucky that I live 30 minutes from the Magnepan home base and factory.  They were very apologetic.

[Jon L]

The bumps are common.  It is the foil delaminating from the mylar.  Magnepan usually says that they're normal and don't impact function or sound, but personally, I would not be happy with them if I bought them new.  Since you bought them used, there is not really anything you can do about them now.

Perhaps Magnepan should pay more attention to permanently fixing the common delaminating issue instead of charging (IMO) exorbitant premium for the X "upgrades"..

[E-Zee]

Related to the topic of internal upgrades on Magnepan, here are two recent threads from the GR-Research circle.   Even if doing basic upgrades without the GR-Research crossover, the principle would be the same.  These are very easy to upgrade speakers, even if you just replaced the stock parts with higher quality parts of the same value (same component values), just making that swap and replacing the questionable stock wiring/ jumpers/ binding posts would be very similar to the "x" upgrades offered by magnepan. 

https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=192014.0

https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=191945.0

Im very much a fan of the potentialof the Magnepan, but it is really hard for me to understand how in today's market they are continuing to use what seems to be outdated standards for internal wiring / jumpers/ binding posts.

To me the Magnepan "x" upgrade of direct connect wiring without the nonsense steel terminals and other goofiness should be standard, and the decision of upgrade should be limited to choosing high-tier crossover components or not. 

[magister]

The bumps are common.  It is the foil delaminating from the mylar.  Magnepan usually says that they're normal and don't impact function or sound . . . .

Thanks, this is helpful to know.  You're right of course about buying used.

[magister]

I'm very much a fan of the potential of the Magnepan, but it is really hard for me to understand how in today's market they are continuing to use what seems to be outdated standards for internal wiring / jumpers/ binding posts.

As I said, I'm new to Magnepan, but it's good to know that other people are asking such questions.

[Jeff_From_Michigan]

I have used dual SVS subs running with my LRS's, and I was very satisfied.  They are older models (PB12-NSD's), from before they made subs that can be controlled from the phone app. The new models with that functionality look very intriguing. But to be honest, I LOVE the sound of the bass coming from the LRS's so much that for 80-90% of what I listen to, I don't even desire subs.

If you move up the Mangepan chain, you'll notice that the bigger models go progressively lower in the bass. I found that with my 3.6R's, I used subs far less often than I do now with the LRS's.

You're so right about those silly speaker connectors.  I realize that this was a decision made by Magnepan to keep the cost down. It is pretty amazing that they sound as good as they do despite this.  I've had the itch to replace the whole mess with tube connectors, which along with eliminating all of that steel in the chain, would just make things so much easier.

[magister]

for 80-90% of what I listen to, I don't even desire subs.

As the new speaker cables and the LRS+ themselves have settled into my system, the bass has improved -- it's now better than I expected going in.  Not as deep or tight as my sealed-box speakers, but more than acceptable for a lot of music. (But I do like organ pipes ).

I do realize that Maggies produce better bass as you go up the line.  But I don't have room for larger panels, unfortunately.  That's one reason why I never tried Maggies until the LRS/LRS+ became available. 

I looked at the SVS website; very interesting.  I'm not a fan of the notion that everything nowadays must come with an app.  But it's hard to access the rear of my audio rack, so in this case the app would be helpful.

[I.Greyhound Fan]

I use 2 sealed Martin Logan Original Dynamo subs.  They integrate flawlessly with my Maggie 1.6s.
You definitely need sealed subs. Martin Logan subs are fast and musical.  I prefer them to SVS subs.
Rythmik subs are servo controlled and are an excellent match with Maggie's but they lack bass thump.  So if you like to feel it in your chest, look elsewhere.  For the SVS, look at the sealed 3000 sub.
Also consider dual subs.  The sound stage and depth just gets bigger and bass is smoother in stereo

[max190]

magister,
how old are your LRS+?
How far are they away from the front wall and do you have any absorption or diffusion on the wall?
Tweeters inside or outside?
Toed in or firing straight?

I have LRS+ coupled with a REL 5x and 7x Dual sealed subs is the only way to go. Bass is excellent in my small 12' x 15' treated room.

[johnto]

I thought that Magnepan solved the delaminating problems years ago. As for subs I picked up a pair of Sony subs for $50 each on CL, they fit in perfectly if you keep the sub volume low to avoid boom. I think they recommend tweeters out on the LRS. With Maggie’s it’s a lot of trial and error with placement,
Enjoy

[magister]

Martin Logan subs are fast and musical.  I prefer them to SVS subs.

May I ask what you like better about the ML subs?

Rythmik subs are servo controlled and are an excellent match with Maggie's but they lack bass thump.

I don't care about 'thump' per se.  I want to hear pitch and timbral accuracy of (let's say) a string bass in an orchestra or jazz combo.

Also consider dual subs.  The sound stage and depth just gets bigger and bass is smoother in stereo

I've read elsewhere that some people recommend two subs.  I was hoping to avoid this due to lack of floor space and to keep the budget down.  But I will keep an open mind.

[magister]

how old are your LRS+?

I bought them used so I'm not certain, but the LRS+ have only been out for 2 or 3 years, right?

How far are they away from the front wall and do you have any absorption or diffusion on the wall?

They sit in front of a bay window.  They are about 3' out, with the distance becoming less as the window angles in.  No treatment except curtains and shades in front of the glass.

Tweeters inside or outside?  Toed in or firing straight?

Tweeters outside, as the LRS+ manual suggests.  (I know that some people run them the other way and I will try that at some point.)  They are very slightly toed in.