[Occam]

Srinivas,

They're really very different beasts. The Monster is a tremendous material bargain, will be able to power your total system, and (nominally) provides isolation between groupings of equipment, as well as specific surge supression, It also provide surge supression to your external video lines.

A Felicia on the other hand only filters one source component (low power), the preferred transformers are currently unobtainium, and the surge supression is self sacraficing for catostrophic events (a lightning strike will vaporize the primary winding of the input transformer protecting the component it feeds). And you've got to build the frigg'n thing yourself.

That being said, if you live in an enviroment with noisey mains power (like an apt building in NYC) the benefits to the component which Felicia powers are substantially greater. It really is an excellent power conditioner, and is up there with the very best.

The Monster is far more flexible, comprehensive, sequences power on and off, and at that price is a no brainer for a 'family' AV system. If you want and need the very best in powerconditioning, it costs, either in time and grief (DIY), or actual dollars for something like an Audience Adept, BPT, Running Springs, etc.... (note - if I left off anyone's bespoke favorite out its just cause I've not personally heard them, and am not dissing them)

And I'll actually admit that I've bought one of these bargain Monsters for my family room video system. It will provide some nominal improvements, but more importantly I wan't that surge suppression. Last time ConEd dug up the street, dropped power, and reconnected, they fried my DVD player. And maybe the Monster warranty will apply. If you read their fine print, their 'protection' warranty is only valid for UL approved components plugged into it.
I personally wouldn't plug MY audio system into it, I know what Felicia does, and besides, I ain't got no steenk'n UL approved components in my audio system.

Regards,
Paul

[Srinivas]

Thanks for the suggestions. I already have a good surge protector but was looking for clean AC sources. There is no hum in my system. I have a fairly decent system(probably low end wrt most folks here) - a Onkyo 702, combination of Acoustic Research and JBL speakers (AR went out of business - so settled with JBLs for rear 3 ) and a Mirage S12.
The sound is decent but it lacks something. I cannot put it in words but compared to some hearing I did at local Audio shops, there is some tune up that can be done. Thats why I thought of trying in stages - Power, cables, layout etc. Felicia looked like a good start.
Regarding replacing power cords, except my DVD, all of them have them attached inside. So I cannot open the components(still under warranty). Would it help if I ran a DIY cable upto the componet and connect the powercord(probably coil it and tie it) to this cable ?. I read somewhere wrapping in aluminum foil helps   - is that true ?
The problem is neither me or my friends are good at detecting deficiencies in listening tests. We cant decide what is lacking or pronounced. I know the if it sounds good to you rule...but when I hear a improved sound, I start to realize what was missing. I wish there was some material on DVD to help with these.

Thanks

[nature boy]

FINALLY SCORED SOME 28V TRANSFORMERS.  Looks like the Felicia project will begin soon.  Thanks Gordy and Paul.    

NB

[Builder Brad]

Hi Paul,

I am using a Felicia to supply the regulated PS x 2 for my Orion active x-overs and a squeezebox PS, so I guess that these are definately very low current sources for the Felicia. I am just a little concerned about the running temperature of the Felicia - I know that it is unseasonably hot here in the UK at the moment, however this DIY component runs to hot to touch and is I am wondering if this is normal?

Brad

[Occam]

Hi Brad,

Some questions first. Is your Felicia running hot with no load attached? If so, then the 'betwixt and between' caps are forming a resonant circuit with the transformer's secondaries and we should take this up in PM.  If this is a situation where its getting hot only when powering a component, we need to discern how hot. I couldn't find the specific specification of your 100va split bobbin transformers, but I assume the insulation is (typically) rated 130 oC. Transformers running at their full rating, typically run very hot, like burned finger hot.... If you can touch the transformers for 10sec before having to remove your finger, its running well within spec.
Are you running 2 regulated supplies plus the SB supply off a single Felicia? If so, the load might simply be too high and the solution would be to build another Felica to share the load. Do you have some way of measuring the loads? If not, can you measure the input and output voltage of the Felcia with no load applied? And then the output volatages with the various loads applied? Then, you could also measure the voltages output by your Felica when powering differing incandescent lightbulbs, 20w, 40watt, 60watt, and then by comparison we can estimate the loads demanded by your components with a reasonable accuracy.
But in the scheme of things, if Felica is hot but not finger burning hot, and your various fed component are operating properly (voltages staying in regulation), you're probably fine. Also, if you've fused your Felicia, as you should, with a .4-.5amp fuse and its not blowing, you should be fine.

Regards,
Paul

PS - Is your Felicia providing any subjective benefits?

[Builder Brad]

Hi Paul,

Thank you!

here are the details for the Felicia in question:

"3.3uf Polypropylene 630v cap b+b using the 100VA Clairtronic JPR transformers and a array of 0.0047 and 0.1 uf x rated caps on the output"


GK 1R V IN 227 V OUT 209
Arcam @8SE V IN 227 V OUT 211
Pioneer media box V IN 226 V OUT 207
Pioneer DVD 868avi V IN 228 V OUT 217
Sky+ satellite box V IN 227 V OUT 214
Orion power supply V IN 229 V OUT218
60 Watt light bulb V IN 231 V OUT 200
43 Watt light bulb V IN 227 V OUT 204

I will take the mesurements for the present load later today and report back. I will also test the Felicia without a load to see if it still runs hot, FYI the transformers are installed in an unventilated cabinet.

I am very happy with the performance of this low cost upgrade, the best improvements were heard on source components such as Cd players and DVD players. I am also aware that I may obtain even better results with a larger value b+b capacitor.

[Occam]

2, 4, 6, 8 you really ought to ventilate.....  

Brad,

Your numbers seem to be in line, but any transformer will heat up with any significant load. If there is no where for that heat to go, you'll ultimately compromise the longevity and performance, especially of the nearby capacitors. My own tripple Felica with 6 175va transformers is housed in an unventillated wooden Ikea box. To dissapate heat, I simply leave the lid off. (but that does require a significant other with substantail understanding, or at least one accepting of aberrant behavior) The easiest thing to do would be to drill some holes in your Felicia's enclosure with some holes to allow some airflow.

But your measurements do point out a significant constraint of the Felica design. Because we're cascading transformers, with increasing load, we get voltage drop. This isn't significant until the voltage drops to the point where the fed component doesn't recieve sufficient voltage to maintain regulation of regulated supplies or the voltage drops to where the operating points are skewed. These limitations are specific to the individual components.

I assume you're using the Clairtronic 100va 120/120:20/20 transformer from JPR. One possible way to minimize the voltage drops associated with increasing loads is to 'goose' the initial output voltage from your Felicias. If you're pleased with your Felicia performance and want to 'go forth and multiply'. You could use your existing 120/120 primary transformers for output and feed them with Clairtronic 115/115 or 230v primary transformers with the same secondary volatge (20/20?). These are available from RapidElectronics -
http://www.rapidonline.com/productinfo.aspx?id=-1&tier1=Electronic+Components&tier2=Transformers&tier3=Chassis+Transformers&tier4=Chassis+mount+transformers&moduleno=72692
Either the single 230v primary 88-3511  or split 115/115v primary 88-3460  (only the output transformer require the split winding to provide a groundable center tap to provide balanced power) should provide about a 5% boost in output voltage. Ian (Studley) is currently working on this exact configuration. He is also experimenting with various values for those 'betwixt and between' capacitors. Hopefully he'll post about his results soon.

[studley]

Paul

I'm still waiting for the Claritycaps (for across the output) to arrive.  They did tell me that they were out of stock but hopefully I will  have something to report in a week to two.

regards

Ian

[Builder Brad]

Hi Paul,

I already have a couple of spare Farnel 230v input transformers, as previously recomended in order to minimise the voltage sag.

I will try one of those out very soon....and provide the new readings on my kit.

PLUS the 2,4,6,8 Ventilate

Cheers

Brad

[ozone_stink]

I've just purchased 4 Signal A41-43-24 transformers for ~5.00 ea. on eBay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Signal-Transformer-A41-43-24_W0QQitemZ7535288107QQihZ017QQcategoryZ4665QQcmdZViewItem

I intend to build a Felicia to power a 20W Rotel RCD-02.

I suspect / hope these will be adequate.  Any comments?

Would anybody be so kind as to mark up the schematic:


With the actual pin numbers on the Signal A41 series that correspond to the points in the schematic.

for example:

Ingress Transformer Hot Primary (F1) connects to Pin# __
Ingress Transformer Neutral connects to Pin# __
Ingress Transformer Secondary (top in diagram) is Pin# __ and connects to Egress Secondary (top) Pin# __
Ingress Transformer Secondary (bottom in diagram) is Pin# __ and connects to Egress Secondary (bottom) Pin# __
Egress Primary (F2) (top) Pin# __
Egress Ground Pin# __
Egress Neutral (F3) (bottom) Pin# __

To put the transformer in serial instead of parallel mode, which pin numbers are tied together?

I think I've got the gist of things and don't mind poking around with a meter, but I sure would find it comforting to be clear on what's going where.  Then when I poke with the meter, any issues will be hopefully less ambiguous.

I'm sorry if I'm sounding stoopid, but it's still not so clear.  Perhaps when the traffos arrive and I have my meter, it'll be more obvious.  For the moment, I only have this schematic: http://www.belfuse.com/Data/DBObject/page_08.pdf

My objective is to have things so that a trained monkey such as myself with the Signal A41 can put together a Felicia and not electrocute myself!!     

Thank you so much for your help!!

[yo2tup]

Anyone have a felicia for sale or have time to build me one?  i'd build it myself, i don't understand the schematics 

 pictures of the actual parts would be easier to follow for me 

[ozone_stink]

So, I've read through this thread a couple of times and I'm starting to think I'll be disappointed with the 43VA version of the Signal A41s.

I'm going to order either:

Hammond 185G36  (from Partsconnexion)

or

Triad VPS36-4800 (from Digikey)

The Hammond is a couple of bucks cheaper...

Anybody know if one is any better than the other?

Thanks.

[Occam]

Ozone,

Both of those transformers are 'World Power' chassis mount transformers and are nominally exactly equivalent, as are the Triad, Signal, etc... versions. Using a 36v secondary version, as opposed to the 28v Signal Transformer, might require slightly less capacitance accross the line than the presently recommended 18uf.
I'm confilicted about your building a Felicia with new parts @ $40/transformer. In the scheme of things, its still a value in comparison to commercial offerings, but not the bargain when you could source them for <$10ea. I think I know someone with a few spare transformers and will have them PM you. Also, if the components you wish to power are less than 15watts actual draw, I might have a less expensive surplus source for a different, but appropriate transformer.

You2tup,

PM me with your location, and I might be able to help. The real problem is shipping a Felicia via UPS, FedEx, etc.... and not having them destroy it in transit. Been there, they destroyed it......

Regards,
Paul

[mgalusha]

I have 4 of the original Signal transformers, PM if interested. Cost is whatever I paid plus actual shpping. Prefer a postal money order but will accept paypal if you want to cover the fee.

Mike

[ozone_stink]

Thanks guys for your generosity.  I'll sending you both PMs.

A while back, I put a Kwak Clock in my CDP and it made quite an audible difference.

I messed about with caps and op-amps but the differences were slight in comparison.

Everything I've read about the Felicia leads me to believe that I'll see another difference that rivals the addition of a decent clock in my CDP.

I'm very excited about this project and I'm very grateful for any assistance may render me.

Cheers!! 

[ozone_stink]

Well, I just received my caps from Solen Electronique:

C1 = 18uF 400VDC Solen (http://www.solen.ca : PB1800, +/- 5%)
C2, C5 = 0.47uF 630VDC Solen (http://www.solen.ca : SM047, +/- 3%)
C3, C6 = 0.1uF 630VDC Solen (http://www.solen.ca : SM010, +/- 3%)

I also bought a couple of the following:

0.01uF 1200VDC Solen (http://www.solen.ca : SN001, +/- 3%)

I bought enough caps for a dual Felicia (4 transformers) and I was wondering where it would be best to put the 0.01uF caps:
<1> Between the Transformers
<2> After the egress Transformer

Thanks again for your help. 

[ozone_stink]

In partial answer to my question, I noticed that Audioferret (http://www.geocities.com/ghaunadaur99/audio/felicia5.html)
placed his 0.01uF caps in parallel with the 0.47uF & 0.1uF caps AFTER the egress transformer.

Given his good results and care, I suspect that this is 'the way' to do it.

Any comments?

[Occam]

Any comments?

Yes! The Mets are going to take the pennant!!!

Other than that - there is a reason the good lord has given us quick connects (and my favorite - experiment facilitating dpdt switches)... She wants us to experiment, and make our own judgements. I'm assuming you don't have a signal generator and oscilloscope, so your not going to be able to judge an obvious difference under lightly loaded conditions. But as you're building 2 complete Felicias, I'll ask you to build them both ways, and let us know your preference, or whether you think they make any difference at all. 

As an aside, there is a reason I've generally recommended metalized capacitors as opposed to film and foil caps in this application-
1. I'm a cheap SOB
2. Metalized caps are 'self healing' and more resilient. But given the voltage ratings of your foil caps, I'm not concerned over it, especially betwixt and between the 2 transformers where they'll be exposed to 14vac, and a bit more so on the outputs where they'll see your full line voltage. But assuming you fuse the outputs as in the schematic, I wouldn't worry.

But all things being equal (which they never are) film and foils generally outperform metalized caps. One of the most disconcerting things about the Felecia project is the conclusion by me as well as others, that different nominally equivalent caps sound different and that difference can be substantial. This might be obvious to others when caps are used in signal coupling, but to hear those differences so far upstream prior to the powersupply is just damn strange. 

Another odd observation is that caps and their bypasses should all be oriented the same way with their writing going in the same direction (if they're from the same vendor). It doesn't matter if they're rightside up, or down, just that a grouping be oriented the same way. Those caps are seeing either floating or balanced AC, no ground at all and it shouldn't matter, but it does. Beats the heck outta me....

[ozone_stink]

I've got a strange question:

I've come across a couple of Step Up/Down transformers from 115V to 230V rated at 500VA.

If I put them a$$ to teakettle as follows:

From Mains -> 110V IN -> 230V OUT  --> 230V IN -> 110V OUT with caps parallel caps between, will I:

1) Blow myself up / wreck my caps & light my hair on fire  -OR-
2) Have an isolation transformer that might work for an amp with a 420W draw?

Sorry for the notsoschmart questions...

[samplesj]

<1> Between the Transformers
<2> After the egress Transformer

I did both.  Maybe I misread the recommendation, but it looked to me like each bundle of caps could use a bypass.