[Tyson]

Well, I couldn't stand the hash and spitiness I was hearing with the stock MiniGan 5.  Looking under the hood it's clear they used mediocre quality parts for the binding posts, RCA connectors and internal wiring.  So, time for surgery! 

Spent the afternoon with a drill bit, a soldering iron and some top quality parts.  Here's the progression of the work:










Was the result worth the effort?  Hell yeah.  Tonal beauty is no longer a glaring weakness.  It will never be a tube amp, but at least there's no hash or spitiness getting in the way of the amps other, considerable strengths. 

Here's a list of parts I used.  Mostly I picked things that I know have a softer/warmer sound, to try to get the amp to be better balanced:

ETI Copper RCA connectors
ETI Copper binding posts
VH Audio OCC hookup wire (for the speaker wiring)
Nemak pure silver hand polished hookup wire (for the input/RCA wiring)

A few things to note (if you want to try this yourself).  First, the ETI copper binding posts are too thick for the existing holes in the case, so you'll need to enlarge the holes with a case bit.  Second, the ETI Copper binding posts are too long to fit without using some silicone spacers (I picked up some at the hardware store).  Finally, to get to all the solder points you need to remove the main circuit board.  There's 4 screws on the corners of the board.  And the RCA connectors and the XLR connectors have to be unscrewed from the back of the case, because the board is attached to those connectors. 

[2bigears]

  nice,, you may have started something. Nothing like a mod or two. 

[AllanS]

One more advantage of buying used - no concerns about voiding the warranty.

[musicdre]

One more advantage of buying used - no concerns about voiding the warranty.

this point is brilliant!

[Early B.]

Well, I couldn't stand the hash and spitiness I was hearing with the stock MiniGan 5.  Looking under the hood it's clear they used mediocre quality parts for the binding posts, RCA connectors and internal wiring. 

Was the result worth the effort?  Hell yeah.

Yeah, those binding posts, in particular, are trash. I don't doubt that you're getting better sound. Seems like a worthwhile mod.

[Daryl Zero]

Tyson, I can't picture (or aurally imagine) what you mean by "spitiness." Can you elaborate?

Also, now that you've modded your Mini GaN 5, what are your thoughts or are you still breaking it in (and I guess that "breaking it in" has 2 meanings now)?

[catluck]

From Tyson, "Well, I couldn't stand the hash and spitiness I was hearing with the stock MiniGan 5...."

Another interesting issue raised inasmuch as, with the M3's, I find the MiniGans present a tonal/timbral purity not present with tubes (6550's or 845's). Hash is a quality or property that I've always thought couldn't be heard directly but, rather, the absence of hash is what's "heard" and perceived as a purer tone/timbre.  Is that what you mean Tyson?  It seems, always and obviously, to my ears, that while they may lack the last degree of harmonic bloom present with tubes the MiniGans sound more natural, i.e., trumpet, piano, sax, just sound more like the "real" thing.   

Ironically, using MiniGans upstairs with Merlin VSM's, I did hear a sporadic glaring leading edge, particularly on human voice, which bothered me alot. This went on for about the first month or so of listening. Then this glare began to moderate and now (going on 3 months of leaving the units on about 4 hrs/day) to the point of nearly disappearing. But the shimmer of guitar strings, chewy fiddle tone, tight/muscular bass and extraordinary detail (see-through quality of the soundstage) have elevated the sound of the Merlins relative to any of the tubed monoblocks I was using (300B's, KT88's, 6c33's). And, like downstairs, while they seem to lack the last degree of harmonic bloom instruments sound more natural. A conundrum?

Is the harmonic bloom vs. naturalness of instrument/human voices a "real" issue?  Well we all know that harmonics can be engineered into circuits.  I suspect we've all heard tube gear we consider "slow" or "syrupy," etc.  So I must conclude that harmonic embellishment does not, in and of itself, necessarily add any verisimilitude to instrumental voices.  It's an art thing.  Add to the mix, differing individual sensitivity in hearing, especially relative to frequencies in the 1.5K - 4K range, and it's not surprising to me that one man's delight is another man's disgust.  Thus, the joy in having so many amplifier solutions.

Because I'm concerned about voiding their warranty, I'm precluded from undertaking Tyson's mods which I would otherwise try in a heartbeat. Perhaps in about 2 yrs. 9 months...  I guess I'll just have to continue enjoying the music.  I'll find a way to get through it.

[Tyson]

Yes, buying used alleviates the worry about voiding the warrantee.  Also, I mod every single amp/DAC/Preamp/speaker that comes in to my house, because I can always see that there's usually some parts that are low quality that are directly in the signal path.  My goal with the mods is to have the highest possible quality parts in the signal path. 

Re: harshness and spittiness, I mean that when a singer would hit an ssssss or a shhhh sound, it would overly pronounced and harsh.  Which is something I am very sensitive to and one of the main reasons I own tube amps, because they are inherently less sharp/aggressive in this area. 

Maybe I should have waited a bit longer before doing the mod, but the amp was kind of driving me crazy.  And I knew from previous amps that the parts in there would ALWAYS be holding back what the amp was ultimately capable of. 

I will say this, the mods made an immediate and very clear improvement.  It doesn't have 'bloom' like some tube amps, but it now has a pleasing tonal balance.

The real strength of the amp (so far) is just it's sheer amount of resolution.  I've had other amps in the past that were very high resolution but those other amps were also thin and somewhat unmusical. 

After the mods, the MiniGan is very high resolution and NOT thin and unmusical. Which is a pretty neat trick.

[Mr. Big]

Glad you're getting the Class D amps to sound better. Low cost so you can upgrade all the parts as needed. Good to have your skills. Myself, Mark Levinson, McIntosh, Luxman, and Pass. Both tubes and solid state. Superb built quality and known sonics. But they do cost more. But I keep my stuff for 7-10 years so in the long run good value.

[2bigears]

  hi all. Hay Tyson,, that mod looks like easy enough for a home handyman. Where did you get the parts ? I just might do that myself. Thanks ....

[Tyson]

Glad you're getting the Class D amps to sound better. Low cost so you can upgrade all the parts as needed. Good to have your skills. Myself, Mark Levinson, McIntosh, Luxman, and Pass. Both tubes and solid state. Superb built quality and known sonics. But they do cost more. But I keep my stuff for 7-10 years so in the long run good value.

I'm a huge fan of both Luxman and Pass.  In fact, one of the few SS amps I've owned long term is a Pass design from First Watt called the Burning Amp 3.  A friend owns the SIT 3 and that's another one I could easily own.  And yet another/different friend owns the XA30 and it's incredible.  Any of these I can live with long term. 

[Tyson]

hi all. Hay Tyson,, that mod looks like easy enough for a home handyman. Where did you get the parts ? I just might do that myself. Thanks ....

Sure thing, here's the links for the parts:

VH Hookup Wire - https://www.vhaudio.com/unicrystal-occ-copper-wire.html - get the 18ga for the speaker wire and 24ga for the RCA wire.

ETI Cable Pod (Speaker Binding Posts) - https://www.vhaudio.com/connectors-speaker.html#EichmannCablePod

ETI Copper RCA Connector - https://www.vhaudio.com/eti-fr-tc07-rca-socket.html

Case bit (to enlarge the speaker binding post holes) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YK581VG/ref=emc_b_5_i

Nylon Spacers - I bought these at my local Ace Hardware.  They were necessary because the ETI Cable Pod speaker binding posts were too long.  I just took one of the binding posts into Ace and measured various nylon spacers until I found one that fit.  I needed 12 in total (3 per binding post).

[mick wolfe]

I have the Mini GaN 3, and yes, it does possess an ungiving nature of sorts. On well recorded material it is quite exceptional.  However on less than perfect recordings, it can become fatiguing and somewhat irritating. Since many of my CD's fall into this "less than perfect" category, it's only a matter of time before I grow impatient and one of my tube amps ends up back in system. As for now, I'm going to be patient and implement "catluck's" approach. With that said, I thank Tyson for his approach as well. It may come to that.

[Tyson]

Since Class D Audio is a small company, I wonder if you could just send them the better parts and have them build it for you with the better parts.  In fact I think someone on this thread already did something like that.

[lazbisme]

someone on this thread already did something like that.

yes, with WBT binding posts. I got my monoblocks with the WBT post option offered on the website.

[genjamon]

Others have also noted that the XLR input jacks can be preferable to the RCA's on these amps - even with singled ended IC's with RCA connectors.  Just using some Neutrik XLR/RCA adapters into the XLR inputs appears to offer benefits.  Maybe that has to do with the RCA input jack quality relative to the XLR input jacks, or maybe something else.  I find it hard to believe the quality of the stock RCA jacks is that bad that inserting a low cost Neutrik adapter improves it substantially, but who knows. 

Before I ordered, I confirmed with Tom that he does use copper jacks and binding posts on these.  He said he doesn't cut corners on quality of the components.  Of course, the proof is always in the listening.  While I do wonder if Catluck is right that enough break-in could do the trick on these, but Mick has had his Gan 3 for a couple years already, so maybe YMMV.

[2bigears]

  thanks Tyson. Thanks very much. I'm in Canada so I can look on Parts Connextion ,,,, I do wonder if they have the good parts ?  They should !  I'm hoping I didn't waste a k note. I would have ordered those little tube amps with a two year wait,, but I can't wait that long. It's to bad they can't ramp up production. I can't believe there is such a lineup of people waiting for those ,,,, unreal. 

[mick wolfe]

Others have also noted that the XLR input jacks can be preferable to the RCA's on these amps - even with singled ended IC's with RCA connectors.  Just using some Neutrik XLR/RCA adapters into the XLR inputs appears to offer benefits.  Maybe that has to do with the RCA input jack quality relative to the XLR input jacks, or maybe something else.  I find it hard to believe the quality of the stock RCA jacks is that bad that inserting a low cost Neutrik adapter improves it substantially, but who knows. 

Before I ordered, I confirmed with Tom that he does use copper jacks and binding posts on these.  He said he doesn't cut corners on quality of the components.  Of course, the proof is always in the listening.  While I do wonder if Catluck is right that enough break-in could do the trick on these, but Mick has had his Gan 3 for a couple years already, so maybe YMMV.

Yes, probably not quite 2 yrs though. Plus in that time, it's seen somewhat limited use. So a more thorough break-in might be needed. As of now, I'm using a Schiit Loki to tailor a more palatable presentation on a wider variety of program material. Today I'm also going to compare the XLR vs. single ended inputs. Yes, the same type Neutrik adapter you mention will be used. In all the cable experiements I've tried so far, XLR has shown no clear cut advantage over a quality single-ended RCA cable. As always though, YMMV.

[genjamon]

I'm probably only 50 hours in on mine, and generally digging the sound except for annoying sibilance.  But I have several other system changes that all are being burned in at the same time and (very slow) pace, and am reserving testing/judgment of the various changes until I can get a lot more hours on them all.  Hoping to do the old speakers-facing-each-other-wired-opposite-polarity-with-blanket-on-top burn-in process for almost two weeks straight while we're away for the holidays.  If I can get it done, I should be approaching 300 hours by the time I return. 

[Early B.]

Before I ordered, I confirmed with Tom that he does use copper jacks and binding posts on these.  He said he doesn't cut corners on quality of the components.

Manufacturers aren't likely to confess that they use cheap parts, although most of them do.