I can see those being tough.....How did you end up doing it Mike ?
Jay,
First, unlike most of the plans for Danny's kits, these bass cabinets need some explanations to go with the measurements.
First, you need to glue both sides to the front at the same time and the 7" spacer(s) to the rear need to be clamped into place for the glue up.
When you glue the sides to the front you need to be sure neither the sides nor the rear spacer can slide up. Clamping the rear spacer down would help with this as well as using stop blocks that have been coated with wax or packing tape (to keep glue from sticking) on the inside of the front.
I wasn't able to use a lot of clamp pressure or the parts started moving, even with a stop block so I resorted to using my 2" brad nailer to keep the pieces from shifting.
The other thing clamping the rear spacer into place during glueup would do is keep the inside angles even and at the 10 degrees noted in the plans.
Here is another point for clarification, the 10 degree cuts indicated for the braces are not the same type of 10 degree cuts indicated for the sides. With the sides, it is a 10 degree bevel cut (the angle of the saw blade is changed from 0 degrees to 10 degrees on the saw's bevel scale (90 degrees to 80 degrees if using a digital protractor to set the blade angle) and the pieces are fed straight through the blade using the rip fence as the guide.
With the braces, the 10 degrees refers to a miter cut, not a bevel cut, so the saw blade is set back to 0 (straight up and down) and the rip fence is removed. The miter gauge is then set to 10 degrees and a long and tall sacrificial fence is added to the miter gauge (if you have a cutoff sled use that).
You may have already guessed that the first brace I cut, I put bevel cuts on the edges so that one was wasted. Since I thought the rear spacers were for use when adding the top and bottom, I didn't have them in when gluing up the sides so my angles were slightly off. Ten degrees was no longer accurate so it became a game of trial and error to get the angled sides of the braces to match up with the side panels. I ended up cutting eight braces to get four that fit properly, but I finally managed.
As I write this I realize the table saw was not the tool to use for this job. I should have set up my 12" sliding compound miter saw. These braces are exactly what that saw is made for and with it's cut indicator, I could have lined the cuts up accurately the first time rather than make multiple cuts creeping up on the dimension I actually needed
The table saw is the proper tool for the sides and fronts since the miter saw doesn't have enough travel for the 26" length but the miter saw is the proper tool for the braces.
So lessons learned:
1) use the rear spacers between the sides during glue up and stop blocks on the front to keep the sides lined up and the angles accurate.
2) the 10 degrees refers to a bevel cut on the edges of the sides and a miter cut on the braces
3) use the table saw on the fronts and sides but use the sliding compound miter saw on the braces.
Mike