Modding the Toshiba SD4960 DVD/DVD-A/CD/SACD player

BobM · « **Reply #280 on:** 5 Dec 2005, 04:13 pm »

The caps in the Toshiba don't really hold all that much of a charge. Generally, in a circuit, if you turn the unit off and leave it plugged in for about 5-10 minutes, all of the charge will bleed off. This is really aimed at amplifiers, where the power caps are huge. That's where you may need to discharge using a resistor across the leads. But again, most amps bleed off their charges to ground when off.

Source components don't hold much of a charge at all. Even that one big cap in there is still somewhat small. I also didn't run into any cap discharge issues at all with this unit.

Good luck,
Bob

nhtran · « **Reply #281 on:** 15 Dec 2005, 08:01 pm »

Can someone tell me which one of the caps couple the left and right channel opamps? I intend to replace these w/ Blackgates.

Thanks.

NT

STeveL · « **Reply #282 on:** 16 Dec 2005, 04:17 pm »

Quote from: nhtran

Can someone tell me which one of the caps couple the left and right channel opamps? I intend to replace these w/ Blackgates.
NT

I had a quick look at the schematic, coupling caps shown are...

Left - AE10 between the DAC and opamp, AE13 between the opamp and RCA jack.

Right - AE20 between the DAC and opamp, AE18 between the opamp and RCA jack.

Hope that helps.

Steve

nhtran · « **Reply #283 on:** 16 Dec 2005, 04:58 pm »

Quote from: STeveL

Quote from: nhtran
Can someone tell me which one of the caps couple the left and right channel opamps? I intend to replace these w/ Blackgates.
NT

I had a quick look at the schematic, coupling caps shown are...

Left - AE10 between the DAC and opamp, AE13 between the opamp and RCA jack.

Right - AE20 between the DAC and opamp, AE18 between the opamp and RCA jack.

Hope that helps.

Steve

Thanks.

rhale64 · « **Reply #284 on:** 22 Dec 2005, 08:14 pm »

Well people I am almost done retrofitting my parts into my new Parmetals case. It has not all gone as planned. I had to forego putting in the buttons like I had planned. It would have worked but only if I had gotten a real thin faceplate. I wanted the 4mm thick plate so I had to scrap it. I had all the parts in and I believe it would have worked but decided on a thicker faceplate, instead. I hope I made the right decision. Well I am soldering my rca jacks, at least the ones I have in tonight. I hope to have some pics soon. It has been a major undertakeing. I have built a wooden platform for the tray mechanism. I have a bridge to hold the diode bridge and the two Auricaps for the power supply. I have doubled up on my silver wire for the ac side of the bridge as per Rams website. Dont know if it will make a difference but I will soon hear. All the caps will be tied down this time instead of floating in air. I will soon hear if all the talk of keeping things from resonating makes a difference also. This is all if it works of course.

rhale64 · « **Reply #285 on:** 25 Dec 2005, 02:32 pm »

This is of my custom case. I still have to order the faceplate.

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rhale64 · « **Reply #286 on:** 25 Dec 2005, 02:34 pm »

Another pic.

rhale64 · « **Reply #287 on:** 25 Dec 2005, 02:35 pm »

More

rhale64 · « **Reply #288 on:** 25 Dec 2005, 02:37 pm »

One more

GHM · « **Reply #289 on:** 25 Dec 2005, 04:19 pm »

You've been hard at work I see. Things look to be coming along nicely.

Good listening!

rhale64 · « **Reply #290 on:** 25 Dec 2005, 11:34 pm »

Yes it has been a pain. But it has been worth it. It does sound good. I have a lot of extra room in there also. I have plenty of room for a clock upgrade and the power supply for it if I decide to go that route. The extra holes are for my multichannel rcas when I decide to order them. I still need to drill on more though. I remembered that I need the composite video wire so I can see my menu. I am also going to change the power cord to a DIY Flavor style. I am not going to use an IEC. I am going to hard wire it. I have allready drilled the necessary hole for the cable. I will be ordering the faceplate this week. This will be an ongoing project.

rhale64 · « **Reply #291 on:** 27 Dec 2005, 12:11 am »

I have just a couple questions I have been meaning to ask. The Auricaps should have the red wire to the case side like shown in my picture right? Also On a couple of the power supply caps instead of a line for the neg pole there is a dot. Is this the negative side? That is how I have it. It is the two caps on the right front of the board.

compressit · « **Reply #292 on:** 27 Dec 2005, 04:53 am »

Hello folks. New to this discussion but did take the time to go through the last year of posts and picked up some good ideas. Been building Tripath amps for the last 6 months and now it's time to get back to my 4960. rhale64, Auricap says the black lead is in, I have never heard a difference in polarity in any x cap or Auricap when used for filtering AC.
Would like to throw in my 2 cents about the Jensen 4 pole as a tank cap for this unit, it was the best 50.00 I spent on this unit. Huge midrange improvment for me. Responded well to bypassing with film caps to taste, however I decided to leave as is. Also saw some discussion about snubbing rectifier diodes. I have hexfreds, but still tried a bypass with el cheapo .1 uf creamics, there was a slight reduction in ultra high end sibilance/hash. This was a welcome outcome as my unit is wicked transparent. Now a favor if I may, can somone with a schematic give me the inductor value for PLS1. Should read something like 2 x ? mh.

STeveL · « **Reply #293 on:** 28 Dec 2005, 03:14 am »

Quote from: compressit

can somone with a schematic give me the inductor value for PLS1. Should read something like 2 x ? mh.

I looked it up in the Parts List, PLS1 is listed as a 20mH line noise filter.

rhale64 your case looks excellent!

Steve

rhale64 · « **Reply #294 on:** 28 Dec 2005, 12:28 pm »

Thank You Steve. I have been designing my faceplate. I will be living with this thing in my rack for some time.So I am takeing my time on designing it. Still have to order the rest of my rca's and my power cable. I am considering some teflon caps, and a clock upgrade. I think I may wait for those though. I need to tweek my prepro first. And I think it would make a big improvement. My only concerne is it is under warranty for two more years. And I know I will be voiding my warranty. What to do?

compressit fill us in on what all you have tweeked on your 4960. Like what is it that has made your unit so tranparent, etc?And do you think the Jensen is a major upgrade over my BlackGate?

compressit · « **Reply #295 on:** 28 Dec 2005, 11:20 pm »

Steve, thanks for the inductor value. rhale64 I have not used any Blackgate tank caps in a 4960. I have used the Super E Cap arrangment with the NX caps on other things with good results but not the 4960. I will go through what I think is important about how my 4960 sounds. Hubble wall outlet, Risch power filter, Furutec ends and IEC inlet. EVERYTHING is cryoed except the x caps in the Risch filter, even the inductors. Ran into a guy from an online purchase about 1.5 yr. ago who did the initial cap upgrade (Blackgates) and opamp bypass. I don't think there is anything different about it than what has been posted by many others. I added the Jensen 4 pole 220 uf and Int Rectifier HFAO4SD60S hexfreds. I am still playing with diode types. I think probably the biggest difference in my machine from others is that I eliminated the fuse, inductor, and x caps. It's a straight shot from the inlet to the diode pads. Please, no lectures. It's my machine. I do use a .47 auricap and .01 X-cap across the inlet. All wire used inside the 4960 is 5N silver. Cryo copper Vampire chassis rca's to VH recipe silver IC's with copper Eichmans to a highly modified 6 channel amp from a video game that has 3 TA-2020 chipsets in it. I do run the crossovers for my speakers a little hot on the high end because I like to hear what kind of outcome the changes I make have. I hate to be long winded, but I do want to speak about the last problem that I have with my system, and that is sibilance,hash, whatever you want to call it. Before I did most of the AC power upgrades and 4960 mods, that crap started about 7Khz. It is now at about 10 K. The frequencys mentioned are measured BTW, not a guess. I really believe this is a source issue with the 4960. Is this the differerence between crystals/ DAC and a Superclock? I am so close to awesome sound but not quite there. And yes, I am expecting near perfection from a 5K$ system.

rhale64 · « **Reply #296 on:** 29 Dec 2005, 02:42 am »

compressit you should try the Ram diode bridge. It is a pretty cool little device. But it sounds like you probably know a lot more than me about this stuff. I am still gullable at this stage of modding.
I am getting ready to order some stuff to make the VHAudio flavor3. It will all be cryoed. I have hospital grade outlets though. I have two dedicated lines in my theater. One is a 20amp the other a 15. I have been thinking about one of those ceramic fuses. Or as someone else mentioned a circuit breaker. I am open to any and all ideas.

compressit · « **Reply #297 on:** 29 Dec 2005, 09:09 pm »

Well folks, I am on a mission to get the nasty crap I have going on with the high frequencies out. I did go back through to see if all the caps were replaced per Bobs original specs. Found PES54/56/57/37/53 are all stock caps. These are part of the PS section are they not? If someone could confirm this it would be appreciated, and a good place to get started so I can hear what you guys hear. Ron, I may try the RAM diode set and also the Audiocom regulator, but if the PS section is not up to snuff I haven't even finished a basic mod yet.

rhale64 · « **Reply #298 on:** 29 Dec 2005, 10:04 pm »

I sure wish I could find my repair manuals . I had two of them and have misplaced them both. I believe they are the power supply section. I believe two of those are the ones with the dot instead of a line on the circuit board. They are on the right front of the circuit board. If you could when you look at them tell me if the dot is indicateing neg? That is the way I have them. See I removed my stock caps one day when I was bored. I didnt get my caps for a month and a half. So my memory was a little foggy. I am pretty sure it was the way I have it. But I just want to be certain.

mcspack · « **Reply #299 on:** 30 Dec 2005, 10:56 pm »

hello,

I'd like to know what the correct orientation is for the schotkey 220 stye diodes not sure which way to place them in the board.

thanks in advance,

MC